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nudibranco last won the day on September 13

nudibranco had the most liked content!

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About nudibranco

  • Rank
    Wolf Eel

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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Coda Cavallo - Sardinia - ITALY
  • Interests
    clear waters for WA and small critters ! Beach diving ! nights!

Additional Info

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OM-D EM5, Panasonic GX9
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon s2000 and Z240s and Retra Pro
  • Accessories
    8mm FE, 60mm macro, 45mm macro, 30mm macro, 9-18mm and 12-50mm with 3.5" and 4" semidome port, ULCS arms, I-torch Venom focus light
  • Industry Affiliation
    Dive Center Owner

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  1. I eventually went out to get the WWL1-B and after having tried both the INON and the Nauticam I have some thoughts on their use: INON: excellent FOV larger than Nauticam but a bit of vignetting with 14-42mm Pana lens. Sharp through middle range of the zoom but not so good all the way at 42mm. Edges with chromatic noise but fixable post processing. Main problem that had me going to the Nauticam is the internal fogging. I have 10° or more temperature change between different depths and often I found that without some special dry sealing of the dome onto the lens it will keep fogging. NAUTICAM: smaller FOV (strange as some earlier reports show very similar one). Possibly due to the bayonet? No vignetting and overall less distortion. Sharp all the way but sharp like Inon at 14mm, a bit softer at 42mm but much better than Inon. With the floating collar only slightly negative so very nice buoyancy. Clearly the winner although heavier and slightly bigger (and more expensive) Bayonet very practical if you want to unseat from the case.
  2. I have decided to try the INON UWL -H100 lens which I had (but now years unused) nad bought the very cheap Panasonic 14-42 f/3.5-5.6 II and 35mm Nauticam port for Panasonic GX9. I was used to just select the Panasonic 8mm FE lens and a 3.5" port which gave me great quality extreme compactness and even good CFWA. However sometimes I just could not get so close to the critter with the FE so I decided to try it without overspending on the WWL1. Have yet to try more its use but frankly it is very nice. Quality seems quite good maybe as good as the prime fisheye and it does work with zoom all the way to 42mm which allows me to get to closer framing on the subject. I uploaded some photos I just took including one at 40mm...if the flickr link works
  3. I use the Turtle Mobi for Panasonic and there are 2 versions: TTL and Manual. TTL version costs more but you can configure it to use it as HSS in Manual or in TTL up to the flash sync. Since I bought it I only use it in HSS manual and works just fine. I love the ability to have the Shutter flexibility. Probably I could have saved €100. It is great with sun shots especially (CFWA) and to blacken or defocus backgrounds in macros. I use it on a GX9 but I am sure it will work on a GH5!
  4. interesting, I remember asking about this and got the answer it was because there was a missing power pin. But that was the GH4 and/or GX9 which I have. However with the battery powered Turtle TTL converter that has not been a problem in TTL or HSS manual. Andrea
  5. Interestingly the o-ring used by nauticam is much smaller in diameter compared to inon or others. Probably to reduce that sliding problem you mention. The surface resistance is much smaller and needs less lubrication. I believe the nauticam o-rings sealing the case is of the silicon type as I learnt from using the wrong lube that made it swell causing me an almost flood situation (!). That is the main reasons for silicon o-ring they basically do not need grease. Silicon o-rings can use Fluorosilicone grease or christo lubes I read but from my earlier swell problem and since I do not know what types of grease the various manufacturer use I stick to the nauticam grease. And that is also why I seldom need to grease it (once a year maybe?). Inviato dal mio SM-G991B utilizzando Tapatalk
  6. Soft tissue paper is terrible as it leaves lint hard to take out and dangerous. Also lubing makes sense only to keep the o-ring flexible. And lubing must be really minimal as it attracts salt, sand etc. Unlodging the o-ring often is a source of troubling unseen particles and failure. I have used hinged housings from fuji, olympus, sea&sea, and nauticams with 1000 dives and never had a problem. I always rinse well and before closing the case i pass a cleaned finger around the o-ring to make sure there is no particle i may not see. I have checked for tensile strenghts a brand new o-ring vs. one used in my case for 12 years. Basically same flexibility and very minimal extra extension on the old one. Inviato dal mio SM-G991B utilizzando Tapatalk
  7. In 15+ years I never changed o-rings and cleaned them maybe twice or 3 times. It depends a lot on where you store the case and whether you rinse well the housing. A dry environment will potentially make the o-ring less flexible. If you unlodge them too often you risk more ... It is important to use original grease if you do not want to risk swelling of the o-ring and failure. Inviato dal mio SM-G991B utilizzando Tapatalk
  8. I recommend an olympus em10 mk4 (compact and light €600), nauticam case and 35 n85 port (quite compact as well approx. €1900), with a good 14-42mm mk2 panasonic lens €125 and gear (€100). Total about €2700. You can try your Inon 100 first and otherwise use the much bigger and expensive WWL1 if not happy (€1000+). Iso on the M43 is not bad through 2000/3200 and you can use a Denoise program to get rid of noise in pics like the one shown. You could also add a CMC like lens or your bigger SubSee and get macro shots. One camera lens one port and excellent ergonomics on the case with options to improve on lenses and super macro. I also love the 8mm FE from Pana and a 3.5" port (that is about another €1000 but you could open the lens through f4.0 and the port is really small and light giving you option of nice CFWA). The 12-60 from pana or leica requires a big 6" port and really not wide enough. GH5 case is bigger! Sony 6000 series has some options but definetely not nearly close to the many options you have with m43 and quality is definetely not better. Just my thought...!
  9. Wow, could not find anything that worked except the Eneloop Pro. The powerex are also about 20% cheaper in Europe and maybe worthwhile a try then. (!). Any other choice is welcome here. I tried with no success Duracell Ultra and Amazon. Lithium stil unsafe?
  10. I attached some pics taken with the 3.5" port and 8mm FE... super compact and nice corners... cold waters! These samples have bad definition and color but if you want the full pic let me know.
  11. I do not know about the em5iii but the Pana GX9 I used is rated less than the Olympus and have no problems. I do about 150 or 200 pics. If you plan on compact i would lean on em10mkIV. Same quality but more compact with its included flash especially in a nauticam case if you choose that one. Basically same form factor as my GX9. The viewfinder on the em10mk4 should also be a lot better than my GX9. Andrea Inviato dal mio SM-G991B utilizzando Tapatalk
  12. Only M43 is truly more compact. Camera, case (190x100 cm) and port (only 3.5" that I can use for other lenses as well) less than 2kg 2 sets of Strobos (Retra) and arms with floats 5kg 2 extra lenses and port extender for macro lens 400g Camera base (ultralight) and camera charger 300g With about 8kg I can carry everything. The port works with excellent quality with the 8mm fisheye (and can focus down to the port for CFWA), and macro (either 60mm or 30mm lenses). Quality is as good as best APS-C. It also works well for 14-42mm or 12-32mm but hardly use it in mediterranean waters. The 8mm with the 3.5" is truly amazing and favorite combo. Super sharp edge to edge and with some cropping I can do some larger nudibranch. I print through A2 size and cannot complain!
  13. I always check for contacts problems, I tend to think it might be that after the fresh recharge the firmware does not like a voltage over 5.6 or 5.7V.
  14. Not this type of problem (!) but I never use the pilot light as it would drain the battery which hardly makes 2 dives in cold waters. However sometimes after fresh recharge it does not like the batteries and it will not turn on. I have to take them off and put them on again ... not sure why either. Andrea
  15. I was looking at the useful table you made. But I cannot understand where you have the 25mm extension and why under the Tokina version you number are negative then positive then negative then positive depending on the adapters used... Sorry I am confused!
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