dwloop

James, To bring this back to the top, how are you getting on with your LCD? I am looking at the ViewSonic VX and VG series, or a NEC to replace my big ol' Trinitron CRT. Thanks! Dave EDIT: Sorry just noticed the other thread concerning this subject. See your now using a Dell....

Donna and I use two of these to carry our housed dSLR kits on the boats. We use the 24 can size and it works well. Never use the boat rinse tank! Regards, Dave

Bob Whorton had Ike make him a special port as well... I have a picture he sent me somewhere, DSLR with macro lens and teleconverter... Very long! Dave

I think the only thing that would cause this would be physical stress... We have one of the first original Canon Digital Rebel housings, with hundreds of dives to depth. Has been serviced by Ikelite several times, upgraded a few (TTL, Angled bulkhead, etc), but no issues. We travel everytime dive living in Missouri so pack it alot. Also have a Ike housing for the 20D same deal, no issues and couple years old. I have had great service from Ikelite and our dealer (Ryan) over the years. Hope all works out well for you. Dave

First of all let me say I feel for your troubles, I hate it when things don't work! We have two Ikelite housings, one exactly as yours for the 20D and one of the first ones they made for the 300D Rebel. Both housings now are TTL upgraded and we use DS125s. This may sound really silly, but one of the things I check religiously when assembling the kits are that the lens release lever in the housing is positioned far from the lens release on the camera body. This has happened several times to both Donna and I that we get down and the camera either will not focus or has the ER99 because the lens has been 'released' and is loose on the body. Just just a thought... Good luck!! Dave

I have found an old toothbrush works well, both on the Oring and the groove, grabs hairs and lint. I use a little dish detergent to wash it from time to time to keep it clean. Dave EDIT: Clarification - The dish detergent is to clean the brush, not the O ring.

Something I can answer... The TTL that is built into the dSLR housing is powered from the 'primary' strobe. When the strobe is powered up the TTL module powers up as well... Dave

David, I was using velcro straps before, but did not like them grabbing everything and getting dirty. They would have sand, etc. in them and I was concerned about that being around the housing. I did not like cable ties because I had to cut them off each time. The clips stay clean and are reusable, in fact I use them for many things now (storing cords, etc). Here you go, not good shots, but they were for insurance purposes when I took them... BTW: that is not my real focus light... I was using the 4c as a test. The junction block for the dual cord I used a cable tie to strap the clip to it, so it could be clipped to the handle. HTH, Dave

David, I use purse lock ties to hold the strobe cables to the arms. Link here These keep the tension on the coiled portion of the cables helping keep the slack constent at the connectors. I'll post pics of the setup when I get home if you want.. I need to send my last housing to Ike and get the angle bulkhead conversion, but this has helped me make the cords last longer. HTH, David

Exactly!!! Although I use the Canon version - eTTL, it is the same. And very slick!! Just press the buttons to switch to manual and then adjust the power from full down to -3 1/2 stops in 8 increments! No messing with the strobes or manual controllers. It is not stopless but close enough. Dave

Already have the long ball mounts, I was using a manual controller before I got the coversion to eTTL. Thanks for the tips! I didn't want to spring for a $425 special modeling light right now... Thanks again!!! Dave

I just had a conversation with Ryan Canon about this very subject. I ordered the #4074.1 that will mount to the bottom of the strobe arm at the housing handle (Like the Manual controller does for those of us that used them before eTTL). That way I can position the strobes without moving the focus light, at least thats the plan !. I'll let you know how it works in a few days B) . Dave

John, Like David said, it will focus over the full zoom range. In fact it will get pretty close UW as well. In pool tests that I posted to another forum board, I got the 18-55mm to focus down to about 8" behind the 5503 dome, no diopter. I just purchased a 17-40L and 5503.50 dome, and I believe the 18-55 - 5503 will focus closer for some reason. The 'L' lens is a nice piece of glass though. Be warned also, that if you try to use a diopter on the 18-55 with the 5503 dome, it will strike the dome at zoom end and may damage it. Dave

When I asked Ikelite about this lens in an email, they stated they had to wait for a local dealer to get one to test. So before my last trip I got the 17-40L instead (I know its not that wide, but I wanted to replace the kit lens anyway), along with the 5503.50. BTW, for the time being I also use this port for the 50mm macro as well, until I figure out what I want to do there. What port do you use for the 50mm + Lifesize converter?? Dave

We are staying at the Iberostar, they have DresselDivers on-site. We have been several times but only on cruises and from the mainland, so we have dove with DIMI Divers three times while we were there. We made these arraignments because there are 5 other couples (non-divers) on the trip as well... Would have liked to get together with another from WP or DDN as well. Dave