dwloop

James, To bring this back to the top, how are you getting on with your LCD? I am looking at the ViewSonic VX and VG series, or a NEC to replace my big ol' Trinitron CRT. Thanks! Dave EDIT: Sorry just noticed the other thread concerning this subject. See your now using a Dell....

Donna and I use two of these to carry our housed dSLR kits on the boats. We use the 24 can size and it works well. Never use the boat rinse tank! Regards, Dave

Bob Whorton had Ike make him a special port as well... I have a picture he sent me somewhere, DSLR with macro lens and teleconverter... Very long! Dave

I think the only thing that would cause this would be physical stress... We have one of the first original Canon Digital Rebel housings, with hundreds of dives to depth. Has been serviced by Ikelite several times, upgraded a few (TTL, Angled bulkhead, etc), but no issues. We travel everytime dive living in Missouri so pack it alot. Also have a Ike housing for the 20D same deal, no issues and couple years old. I have had great service from Ikelite and our dealer (Ryan) over the years. Hope all works out well for you. Dave

First of all let me say I feel for your troubles, I hate it when things don't work! We have two Ikelite housings, one exactly as yours for the 20D and one of the first ones they made for the 300D Rebel. Both housings now are TTL upgraded and we use DS125s. This may sound really silly, but one of the things I check religiously when assembling the kits are that the lens release lever in the housing is positioned far from the lens release on the camera body. This has happened several times to both Donna and I that we get down and the camera either will not focus or has the ER99 because the lens has been 'released' and is loose on the body. Just just a thought... Good luck!! Dave

I have found an old toothbrush works well, both on the Oring and the groove, grabs hairs and lint. I use a little dish detergent to wash it from time to time to keep it clean. Dave EDIT: Clarification - The dish detergent is to clean the brush, not the O ring.

Something I can answer... The TTL that is built into the dSLR housing is powered from the 'primary' strobe. When the strobe is powered up the TTL module powers up as well... Dave

David, I was using velcro straps before, but did not like them grabbing everything and getting dirty. They would have sand, etc. in them and I was concerned about that being around the housing. I did not like cable ties because I had to cut them off each time. The clips stay clean and are reusable, in fact I use them for many things now (storing cords, etc). Here you go, not good shots, but they were for insurance purposes when I took them... BTW: that is not my real focus light... I was using the 4c as a test. The junction block for the dual cord I used a cable tie to strap the clip to it, so it could be clipped to the handle. HTH, Dave

David, I use purse lock ties to hold the strobe cables to the arms. Link here These keep the tension on the coiled portion of the cables helping keep the slack constent at the connectors. I'll post pics of the setup when I get home if you want.. I need to send my last housing to Ike and get the angle bulkhead conversion, but this has helped me make the cords last longer. HTH, David

Exactly!!! Although I use the Canon version - eTTL, it is the same. And very slick!! Just press the buttons to switch to manual and then adjust the power from full down to -3 1/2 stops in 8 increments! No messing with the strobes or manual controllers. It is not stopless but close enough. Dave

Already have the long ball mounts, I was using a manual controller before I got the coversion to eTTL. Thanks for the tips! I didn't want to spring for a $425 special modeling light right now... Thanks again!!! Dave

I just had a conversation with Ryan Canon about this very subject. I ordered the #4074.1 that will mount to the bottom of the strobe arm at the housing handle (Like the Manual controller does for those of us that used them before eTTL). That way I can position the strobes without moving the focus light, at least thats the plan !. I'll let you know how it works in a few days B) . Dave

John, Like David said, it will focus over the full zoom range. In fact it will get pretty close UW as well. In pool tests that I posted to another forum board, I got the 18-55mm to focus down to about 8" behind the 5503 dome, no diopter. I just purchased a 17-40L and 5503.50 dome, and I believe the 18-55 - 5503 will focus closer for some reason. The 'L' lens is a nice piece of glass though. Be warned also, that if you try to use a diopter on the 18-55 with the 5503 dome, it will strike the dome at zoom end and may damage it. Dave

When I asked Ikelite about this lens in an email, they stated they had to wait for a local dealer to get one to test. So before my last trip I got the 17-40L instead (I know its not that wide, but I wanted to replace the kit lens anyway), along with the 5503.50. BTW, for the time being I also use this port for the 50mm macro as well, until I figure out what I want to do there. What port do you use for the 50mm + Lifesize converter?? Dave

We are staying at the Iberostar, they have DresselDivers on-site. We have been several times but only on cruises and from the mainland, so we have dove with DIMI Divers three times while we were there. We made these arraignments because there are 5 other couples (non-divers) on the trip as well... Would have liked to get together with another from WP or DDN as well. Dave

Yeah, that is too bad! I am really looking forward to Coz! We were in Tulum in the spring and conditions were bad, but Coz is always better. Well, enough hyjacking the thread I guess... :oops: Dave

So, Newbie when are you going to be there? We will be there 7th -> 13th! Dave

And I should have the new 5060 housing and strobe kit from Ryan on my doorstep this afternoon (Hope.. Hope..), so maybe a warm coat on top of it! I am so happy with the service and support I got with the DRebel setup I wanted an Ike setup for the wife. She gets true TTL, while I have to wait! :wink: Dave

Does anyone know of any tests about the new 17-85mm EF-S? Is it really much better than the 'kit' lens and how does it rank with the 17-40mm L? Please forgive all the questions, but I have a trip in four weeks and am trying to decide between these two lenses to replace my kit lens. Thanks! Dave

Us Canon shooters are hoping the holdup is that they are SOOOO busy getting eTTL figured out for the Rebel and E10D... Must be awful having customers clammering for your products!!! :wink: Dave

Very nice pics! Now, does anyone understand what any of that says or means?? Dave

Could someone post a good stock photo house to get started with? I have years of photographs, some good, some not so good and would like to see if I could sell some of the better ones. Being recently out of work drives this somewhat, but I have often wondered about this. I have often seen ads and thought "I have shots better than that!". TIA Dave

in the Riviera Maya!! We got back at 2:30AM this morning, had to show something . Canon Digital Rebel, 18-55mm @ 40mm 1/125s, f/5.0, iso100 Dave

William, Great shots! :wink: I like both of the Morays, I think I like the one with the teeth showing a little more, if it were cropped some. You said you liked the housing better with the weight in? Is that because of it being top heavy with a strobe or some other reason? I have taken the weight out and it is just a bit negative in fresh water with the strobe but feels nice. I am in Mexico all next week and am wondering if I should take the weight with me as I have not had the housing in salt water yet. (Not much in St. Louis area ) I would like to hear your opinion. Dave

Essential? I don't think so. I have played with the FEC download to the DRebel and have seen some improvement with on-board flash (I still don't want to load the hacks), but anyone serious enough about that type of photography will be using an add on flash unit. The good ones have FEC built in, I use a Sigma EF500DG Super. Since I don't TTL UW, it doesn't matter there as well. The mirror lock up is a nit in the overall performance of a camera of this class. The wheel on the back is just another user interface... None of which are essential to either my topside or UW photography. I just don't see the D70 "Head and Shoulders" above the Rebel as all the popular review wants to state I would agree with it being a strong contender, it looks and feels very nice (Black plastic instead of silver plastic ) and has several features that the Rebel lacks, but I have seen E10D's on the web for sale new at about the same price. IMHO that would be a MUCH better buy... But hey... I like Canon!! Dave