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About eagleray

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  1. Hi Jofish Really appreciate your sharing of experience with the 10bar housing I am also trying to decide on the Seatools vs the 10bar GF1 casing. trying very hard to figure out if the seatools is really worth twice the money ... and cost twice the camera For the 10bar casing, did you encounter any problems with using the rear dial ? I understand that the rear controls are by friction and not geared (just like the mode dial) ... so was it easy to press (to change between SS and F) as well as rotate to change the SS and F setting ? This is important to me as I only shoot in M ... Thanks
  2. what about those LED lights? anyone tried them? They seems to have much less hot spot. Not as bright as a light canon, but i only need a little light for focusing and viewing the subject in the LCD. As for the shot itself, it will be taken care of by the strobe.
  3. Hi All, I am interested to learn what configuration do people use for uw photography during night dives. I tried using a normal halogen toshiba torch to light the subject for focus. Have to point the torch away before i take the shot else the "hot-spot" of the torch is very obvious. The UK light canon with the wide diffuser is one of the possible solutions as it illuminates with cooler white light and does not have the hot spot problem. Was looking for a more "light weight solution" as i think the light canon is quite heavy even underwater.
  4. Hi nemo Totally agree that diving skill should predate photo skills. Another thing that all should note is that underwater photography can be very engrossing, in fact, too engrossing. Just to share, personally I was in a situation where i was so engrossed in taking photos that I was nearly out of air. Although I was not very deep (about 12- 15m), I spended so much time taking shots that my computer went into decom. Although I was constantly checking my air and my depth, did not occur to me at that point in time that I could actually go into decom. (lame excuse for not looking at the computer). Prior to discovering that i was in decom, I though that i had the situation under control as i knew how much air i needed to end the dive but the decom stop threw my calculations off. When i did discover it, went up to 5m for the decom stop, the computer required me to do a 5min decom stop there. Shared air with another diver for about 2-3 mins and ended the episode (lucky without incident) It was really a lesson for me. And for all others, trust me, this is not the best way to learn and is totally not acceptable as it puts your buddy in potential danger too. As with every dive, expect the unexpected and take all possible precautions for the unexpected. By the way, my eariler mail on task loading was actually refering to trying to shoot in manual mode for my cam for the first time and since my flash does not have TTL, it also has to be control manually, was thus very difficult to make all the calculations in "realtime" esp on moving subjects.
  5. Hi snoack I was trying to experiment with the wide angle lens for the first time, as such was not too selective about my subjects. On that dive, figured that the wreck was well "out of range" for my strobe and decided to turn it off. Though that it will do nothing but cause back scatter and still not light up the subject. Ended up trying to play with the appreture and shutter speed to get a reasonable exposure. Which was why it ended with F2.8. Another question, it is right to say that for wide angle shots, the F-stops does not affect the DOF that much? rather it affects the amount of ambient light.
  6. 1 Coleman Street, #02-13 The Adelphi, Singapore 179803, SINGAPORE. Tel: (65) 6883-2459, Fax: (65) 6883-2457 Shop hours: Mondays - Saturdays from 10:00am - 6:30pm http://www.diversdreams.com/abtshop2.html
  7. I have just got hold of the olympus wide angle lens and using it with a olympus C40z and pt-012 The task loading was just too much for me. Metering, shooting manual, playing around with shutter and f/stops The following gallery is taken with the above config http://alantis.bravepages.com/2002_09_bali...ben3/index.html would appreciate any pointers as you can see that most of the pics are over-exposed.
  8. hi rstark would you mind posting a pic of your setup? thks
  9. understand that both DEPP and DAN flood insurance is applicable to residents of US only. Anyone know of any insurance in Asia?
  10. Need help here. I use the olympus wide angle lens with the supplied step-up ring for the pt-012 Think i over tighten the step-up ring and now it does not want to come off from the lens. Anyone has any idea how to best to remove it? 1. Was considering dipping the ring portion into hot water But was afraid that the heat might destory the glass element 2. does stuff like wd-40 helps? is it corrosive to any part of the lens? Thanks
  11. Hi All, Need help from those who have used macro lens My choice are 1. Olympus PCU-01 2. Inon UCL-330 3. Inon AD165 macro lens There are very little info about the above lens. All the web pages are in japanese.Any information will be much appreciated. I cannot even find out what is the difference between the new Inon AD series lens vs the older series Thanks
  12. Hi TommyG Was wondering was there a water column between the macro lens and the underwater casing? or was lens fittings water tight?
  13. Hi TommyG Any pics from your recent trip to show? I am very interested to see what the "land based" lens can do underwater. The usual complain is that the pic is soft around the edges. Any problems with that?
  14. Thanks a lot everyone. So i guess i must get a "wet-lens" For my setup(olympus c40 and pt-012), i am left with the following choices 1. Olympus PCU-01 2. Inon AD UCL-165AD Any advise on either of these lens are much appreciated
  15. i was thinking of trying out macro lens like the hoya macro lens underwater. 1. I am intenting to mount the lens on the external of the underwater housing. as such there will be a slight water column between the lens and the casing. Is this workable? 2. I am aware of specialised underwater macro lens from Inon, olympus and sea&sea. Was just wondering how this compares to these "land-based" macro lens Any advise much appreciated
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