diver dave1

Chris, Thanks for the link on gloves. I do not see anywhere in the description that those are Kevlar gloves.

Thanks for the advice. Exactly what I am looking to hear about. I did buy a robust pair of full foot fins already and use 1.5mm neoprene socks in them. They fit tight but not too tight. I will check into the socks you mentioned. The limit seems to be my leg strength as the fins are stiffer than my previous ones. I have been working on leg strength regularly but am limited a bit now due to avoiding the virus. Would I need both 1.5mm neoprene socks AND sharkskin socks? I bought these fins: Mares Avanti Super-Channel full foot fins. Been using them in the pool only so far. Looking forward to the next chance in the ocean. Also sounds like I need to be prepared to clip the camera gear to my BC in 2 places if I am hand over hand on the rope. I do not have it clipped and hanging when swimming so far. I have always pulled along with one hand and kick to hold position when moving that hand forward. Sounds like that is not sufficient at times at Cocos. Fortunately, I have clips that should work for that but will pool test it prior to going.

Gloves then foot protection questions: I am headed to Cocos later in the year in early December, presuming the virus events pass by then. From what I read, one should be prepared to hold onto rocks to allow closer passes from sharks, etc. And the rocks might have sea urchins about. So I need sturdy gloves that work well with DSLR photo equipment. Already upgraded from the Z240's to the Z330's so that will be easier. But the gloves I have might work for holding rocks most likely but of no help with urchins. I have older scubapro warm water gloves with thin neoprene on the backs and a leather like material on the front. They are good for pulling down a rope and warm water. Not sure how well they will do for Cocos conditions. I looked at the Scubapro tropical 1.5mm gloves. They are tight around the fingers, good elsewhere. Land and diving gloves I have had in the past that are tight on fingers end up cutting circulation and making the hands colder. Not tried these gloves in water, only tried them on. What suggestions can I get from the Wetpixel community? I only do warm water diving, above 78F for most diving. The cold upwellings at Cocos might be my coldest diving plans for the near future. So 3mm or thinner gloves are what I am looking for. I think 1.5mm would be sufficient as well for warmth. I will be in a 5mm suit at Cocos with hood. For my feet, I want to use full foot fins with 1.5mm socks. Will that be adequate? I could go to 3mm booties and open fins but that is not my preference. Thanks for your time and comments.

I own a 1.4x and use it often with the Tokina. Just wondering if the fish at Cocos get close enough to skip using it.

Interceptor, I am not quite certain what you are telling me.

I am heading to Cocos soon (for the first time) and shooting a DX format DSLR. I expect my main lens in use to be the Tokina 10-17. The question is, should I add the 1.4x extender to it? That is typical for 'shark distance' dives in most places. But for some places the wildlife comes very close so the 1.4x is not an helpful. I often find guides do not know enough about camera equipment to answer such a question and I do not really expect them to be photography experts. Thanks for your help in advance.

The strobe has been sold.

Type 2

Inon Z-240 Underwater Strobe in fully working condition, never flooded, battery contacts shiny like new, body has minor surface scratches, xenon flash tubes are crystal clear. Includes removable Inon ball mount. $250 + $20 shipping US, Europe shipping at cost via UPS. Paypal payment only. Shipment will be sent to address on your Paypal account.

I moved to a DSLR some yrs ago for u/w photos and also have a Sony RX100 vi. When I used to use a compact camera, there was a button to turn off/on the viewing screen. The RX100 vi has no such button as far as I can tell. So how does it work for u/w photography these days? Are the screens so efficient you can leave them on for a 60+ min dive and have battery power enough? Do you turn the camera on and off during the dive? Or is there a way to efficiently turn off the screen and I have missed it? Sorry for such a lack of knowledge but I have not dove with a compact in years. Thinking of getting a housing for my little camera sometime down the road. Thanks for your time.

The results of having too many things going at once and not enough detail in them. The D7000 does have access to the AEl/AFL button. So clearly, I was wrong. Commentator, please just delete this entire topic. I do not want to mislead others in the future.

Kraken, Thank you for the attempt to help. My problem is that the Nauticam NA-D7000 housing does not appear to allow me access to ANY assignable button on the camera when the camera is in the housing. So while I know how to set the AE-L button, I cannot access it underwater. If I set it before putting the camera in the housing, I could never focus underwater. I am hoping I am wrong and overlooked something or there is someway around this issue. Thus the plea for assistance.

Thanks for the information. Based on what I have and need, looks like I will be using the mini-dome for this trip. I have the extension needed for it with the 1.4X but not for the 8" dome. My gear is a mix of Nexus with Nauticam housing due to past housings owned. I posted a question regarding Back Button Focus in the Shooting Technique section. I hope you will answer there if you have help for my problem posted there.

I want to use back button focus on my D7000 used in a Nauticam housing. As far as I can tell so far, all of the buttons I can program are not accessible using the NA-D7000 housing. I would think there is some kind of work around. Who knows what it is and how to separate focus from shutter release using this housing and camera? thanks in advance.

I have a Sea and Sea 8inch dome I have never used. It is setup for Nauticam connections and I plan to use it with a D7000 in Nauticam housing. I plan to use a Tokina 10-17 and a 1.4X for shooting humpback whales at DR soon. I have no spacer to put between the dome and the housing. I do have the extended piece for changing focal length. I normally use a 4 inch dome with the 10-17 and 1.4X but was thinking the larger dome would improve the whale shooting. Any comments on this? Will I have any trouble with this setup? My concern relates to the nodal point change from moving the lens forward but not the dome. Thanks for any assistance.