Jump to content

henkelphoto

Member
  • Content Count

    32
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by henkelphoto


  1. Hi Guys,

     

    Circumstances force me to curtail my diving. I've got a complete outfit for the Olympus E-m5 camera. The outfit has been in the ocean for one weeklong dive trip and two day trips along with a couple of freshwater dives. Listed are the components. I also have the factory boxes for most of the items. Because this is an older generation body, I'll throw in the body and factory external battery grip with the outfit. I'd like to sell as a complete outfit rather than splitting up. This will make a great starter for someone wanting to get into underwater photography!

     

    Nauticam NA-EM5 housing

    Nauticam ports: 12-50 port with zoom gear and macro gears, 9-18mm semi-dome port with zoom gears, 8mm panasonic dome port.

    Ultralight tray with dual handles, Ultralight 8" and 5" arms, ball connectors, Stix jumbo float kit.

    Sea & Sea YS-01 strobes (2) with fiber optic cables (with one extra cable)

    Fix Neo 1000 UW focus light.

     

    Bluewater photo lists this outfit for somewhere around $5300, not counting the camera. I'll let this go for $2000 shipped. This is a great outfit, all you need to do is add the lenses!

    post-18052-0-75769700-1498164761_thumb.jpg

    post-18052-0-77813600-1498164774_thumb.jpg

    post-18052-0-51159000-1498164790_thumb.jpg

    post-18052-0-19375900-1498164803_thumb.jpg

    post-18052-0-19971700-1498164815_thumb.jpg

    post-18052-0-13571500-1498164828_thumb.jpg

    • Like 1

  2. Hi Bob,

     

    The idea would be to use a video light instead of strobes. There is an interesting post on doing this here

     

    http://www.divephotoguide.com/underwater-photography-techniques/article/still-photography-continuous-lighting/

     

    The brighter the ambient light and the wider the focal length the harder it gets but for macro the new video lights, not even the most powerful ones, seem to do the job. But if the whole exposure series takes 8 seconds then even a nudibranch may be moving too fast :(

     

    Bart

     

    Not to mention the movement of the diver himself/herself.


  3. Hi Tim,

     

    Thanks for the suggestions. I thought about a hasp and padlock, but TSA wouldn't like the lock on it and without the lock, even if I used a zip tie, the case could easily fly open if TSA removed it. I also thought about using duct tape to wrap the case, but the same thing would happen if TSA removed it to look inside.

     

    Putting the Think Tank case inside something else is a thought. I'll have to look into that.


  4. Hi guys!

     

    I'm looking for a suitable case to carry my housing, ports, lights and associated accessories when traveling by air. Right now, I use a Think Tank Airport International roller with all my stuff, but I'm a little worried about checking that case as it is so recognizable as a camera case.

     

    One of the guys I know who does a lot (and I mean A LOT) of air travel with his gear said he uses a fiberglass ice chest with wheels. He just stuffs his clothing around the housing, ports, lights, etc. That sounds like a good idea, but I can't figure out how to make sure the case stays closed. And my buddy is out of touch for a while.

     

    Anybody have any ideas?


  5. I've got an e-m5 in a Nauticam housing. I use the EVF for macro and the lcd screen for wide angle. I like the lcd for wide angle due to being able to watch the whole scene around me without the "tunnel vision" of the EVF. For macro, I find that I can focus better on the small things through the EVF.

     

    With Nauticam housing, the viewfinder is very easy to see through. I've heard that the Olympus housing is not a viewfinder friendly.


  6. Hi guys!

     

    I've got a trip coming up in late July to the Sea of Cortez on the Rocio Del Mar. Expected sightings underwater include sea lions (100% possibility), whale sharks (80-95% possibility), sharks (60-100% depending on species) and dolphins, humpback and sperm whales, and mobula rays (40-60% possibility).

     

    I'm using a Olympus e-m5 in a Nauticam housing with an 8mm Panny fisheye and the 12-50 Oly lens in the dedicated port. Lighting is from two YS-01 strobes. I also own the 9-18 mm Oly lens.

     

    My question is, "should I spring for the 4" dome port at this late date? Realizing that I can use the 9-18 and the 12-50 in that port is pretty good, but I won't have any time to practice with it before the trip and the cost ($480 not counting the zoom gears) will definitely cut into my trip funds. Without the zoom gears, I would be stuck with whatever setting I put the lens at before encasing it in the port, but in the 12-50 case, the 12mm setting might be pretty good. I am not sure how sharp either of these two lenses are underwater. Above water, I find the 12-50 to be quite sharp. I've only owned the 9-18 for a little while, but I don't use it too much as most of it's range is covered by the 12-40 PRO lens (used exclusively above water).

     

    Would either of these possibilities be worth the cost at this time?

     

    Thanks for your help!

     

     


  7. I'm using the e-m5 and an e-m1 for all my photography.

     

    My uw setup is the e-m5, a 12-50 zoom and the panasonic 8mm fisheye. I originally bought the e-m5 specifically for uw as I didn't want to carry a full size housing and ports that my Nikon gear would require.

     

    As it turns out, I ended up selling all my Nikon gear once I found out how good the m43 system performs. And I shoot professionally (photojournalist/portrait) for my career. It's that good. The only problem has been auto focus while on c-af, which I would say is not very good in the e-m5, but is almost the equal of the pro Nikon cameras in the e-m1.


  8. I hope that the phase detection will be available (possibly as a user accessed option) on other af settings. But, in bright light, contrast detection is actually faster than phase detection. I will say that the e-m1 with the v3.0 upgrade is very accurate in c-af, not quite as good as a DSLR, but very good nonetheless. Next time I'm using my 12-50 underwater, I might try the c-af just to see what happens.


  9. Troporobo--not to hijack this thread, but if I were you, I would wait for the next version of the e-m1 rather than buy the current one. The e-m1 is around two years old now. I have the current e-m1 and to tell the truth, it still hunts a lot in low light. And the phase detection doesn't kick in unless you are on c-af, not something I use underwater (although that might be something to consider for macro).


  10. Hello Storker

     

    When I was setting up my kit, I talked with Scott at Bluewater Photo in Los Angeles. He said the difference in the 9-18 and the 8mm is whether you want to get nice snaps from every underwater excursion or do you want to get that one-of-a-kind photo that may make you miss some others. The 9-18 is for the former and the FE is for the latter. Since I just shoot for my own enjoyment and have been shooting uw photos for some three decades I chose the latter and got the 8mm Panny lens. While I haven't been able to get into the water with it as much as I would want, I did have the opportunity to dive Catalina Island in SoCal last month with the camera (e-m5) and the FE. I found the lens to be somewhat limiting, but I did get some nice shots with it. The best being of a Garibaldi who decided to attack the dome port (probably saw a reflection of himself). Here's that photo, something I doubt I could have gotten with the 9-18.

     

     

    post-18052-0-31628200-1428593279_thumb.jpg

    • Like 2

  11. Laura,

     

    I'm not sure what Wolfgang is talking about the e-m1 being huge. I have both the e-m1 and the e-m5 and the e-m1 is marginally larger than the e-m5. Perhaps he is talking about the Nauticam housings for both. I have the housing for the e-m5, but not for the e-m1. However, I've seen the Nauticam housing for the e-m1 at DEMA and I didn't notice that much of a difference. The e-m1 housing comes with a tray that has two "arms" vertically attached so maybe that is what he means. However, if you mount two flash units, then those "arms" are integrated into your overall unit.

     

    As for shutter lag, I am a professional photojournalist and previously was using Nikon and Canon systems. Although the e-m5 has a short lag, I find the e-m1 to be nearly as fast as my DSLRs. S-AF is actually faster than the DSLRs and I have not had any problems with the 2x crop factor.

     

    With Nikon, I was using the D300 and D700 with the 14-24, 24-70, 70-200, all 2.8 lenses. With the Canon, I was using a 1Dmk3 and 1Dmk4 with the same lenses. I originally bought the e-m5 for strictly underwater work since the housings were so much smaller. Little by little, I began to incorporate the e-m5 into my working equipment until I was using the e-m5 about 30% of the time. As of the release of the 40-150 PRO lens, I switched over to Olympus and sold all my digital DSLR gear. I now own the e-m5 and e-m1 with the 8mm Panasonic fisheye, 9-18, 45 1.8, 12-50 (range and macro are nice for uw) , 12-40 PRO, 40-150 PRO and the 1.4 converter. While the c-af with the e-m5 is pretty much useless, I find that I can use the e-m1 well. There is a new firmware version for the e-m1 (V.3.0) which promises to increase the c-af accuracy at up to 9fps. I have downloaded the firmware but have not been able to check out the c-af yet. If it works well, I see no problem with you using it for your birding photos.

     

    Not wanting to get too detailed about my experiences here, message me if you have further questions about the system.

     

    Jerry


  12. Hi Guys!

     

    I'm going to Cozumel in January. I've been there many times before and this trip is just for a relaxing, fun vacation. Underwater photography is not my first priority on this trip so the Nauticam housing and the OMD-EM5 is staying home. I'm taking my Niknonos V with a wide angle lens and a closeup framer.

     

    My problem is that since transparency film has gotten so expensive and hard to find processing for, I'm going to be using color neg film. Does anyone have suggestions on what brand and type of film to use? I'm leaning towards Kodak Ektar 100 since it is easy to get and has a 100 iso.

     

    Thanks!

     

    Jerry


  13. I have a Nikon 12-24mm F4 dx lens for sale. It is in excellent condition, glass is perfect. Used very little as shortly after I bought the lens, I purchased a D700 and then bought a 14-24 lens for that camera. Lens comes with front and back caps, Tiffin 77mm skylight filter and factory lens hood. No box or paperwork.

     

    I'm asking $575.00 plus 20 for priority mail shipping. Payment must be by U.S. Postal Money Order.

     

    I don't post much on here, but I have 42 A+ ratings on Gunbroker under the name of Innocent Bystander.

    post-18052-0-97923700-1401749116_thumb.jpg

    post-18052-0-05639300-1401749132_thumb.jpg

    post-18052-0-50845300-1401749154_thumb.jpg

    post-18052-0-09560200-1401749169_thumb.jpg

    post-18052-0-93972200-1401749182_thumb.jpg

×
×
  • Create New...