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Marjo

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Marjo last won the day on August 23 2017

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About Marjo

  • Rank
    Manta Ray
  • Birthday 10/14/1969

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    http://www.marjoaho.com
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    St. Croix USVI
  • Interests
    Conservation photography, climate change resilience, species and habitat conservation

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    Virgin Islands - US
  1. Hi, I'm interested in the housing! Will PM you! Exactly what I came to look for!
  2. I have the Theta V, with the housing and have taken it underwater. It is a really fun camera, and on land it has some good applications, but underwater its a "toy". Lighting will be an issue. If you have strong pointlights (strobes or sunshine" on some side making the light uneven you will get some unpleasant effects and see the "seams". When the light is even, such as it would a little deeper or when overcast, you will have no color except blue gray. The housing nase is also visible in the image/footage due to it adding to the width of the base. I owned the 360Fly 4k before the Theta V, and I did NOT love it even as a toy. The quality of the image/footage from the Theta V is WAY better. The Theta V is also much easier to work with and the Mobile app is better - but still room for plenty of improvement. The one thing I really don't like is that the Theta V is constructed quite flimsily. I dropped it once into soft grass and the shell came apart - luckily I was able to snap it back together. It should be sturdier in my opinion.
  3. Well, you could always push your WB towards more red in post BUT that would affect your blue too, making it more muddled as you move the entire image towards red. Remember, moving your WB in post will affect ALL the colors. The magic filter gives you the ability to achieve the red without the need to muddle the blue. Yes, you can work on individual color channels with more or less pleasing results, but the filter will easily get you the right, pleasing balance and color deep into the field. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  4. I always imagined that the jacket style BCD would be best for UW photography and subsequently I have gone through a number of different jacket style BCD's throuhout the years in my hunt for the "perfect bcd". I never seemed to find a BCD that would allow me to stay in "any" position I wanted without putting in effort. Being a woman with ample buoyancy at the hips, I always just assumed that there was nothing I really could do about it beyond excellent technique and concious effort. Then a few months ago I finally bought a Zeagle Zena backinflate wing style bcd. I couldn't believe what a difference it made! I can be in ANY position I want, stay absolutely still without any effort. My air consumption just dropped, bottomtime became longer, and photographing is so much easier. Also, since there is no bulk at the side of my body, I'm more streamlined and have more room for my arms and can tuck in to smaller spaces. The design also allows me to snug up the bcd to my body so it stays out and don't ride up and down. It's just so much better than any of the previous BCD's I've ever owned. It just fits and i almost feel like I'm not even wearing a bcd, it feels so effortless to wear it. I should have gone to a back-inflate harness style bcd years ago, but I didn't because somewhere I had read that they weren't good for photographers. Well, they are at least good for this photographer! I agree with everyone who say that buoyancy control and technique matters. Of course it does. But finding a bcd that fits just right and isn't in the way and doesnt try to dictate your position really makes a huge difference. I found mine and I am never going back to a jacket bcd with side inflation again.
  5. I recently purchased a Zen dp-100-NT port second hand to use on my Nauticam housing. It came with a Sea&Sea blue o-ring, but no silicone. Is it safe to use Nauticam silicone on the o-ring or does it need to be Sea&Sea silicone? As my housing is coming in from maintenance today, I'd really love to take the Zen for a dive tomorrow, but I am scared of using he wrong grease and possibly causing a flood. Anyone with experience on this?
  6. Well, just treat her like youd like to be treated and how you would want her to act when she comes home with gear for whetever hobbies she is interested in. Of course, if you share the joy of uw photo with her, she might also start collecting uw gear which makes it easier and you get the added benefit of being able to share a great activity together. In general, the "chocolated and flowers" seldom works for women, or at least myself or any of my female friends. Its some odd old remnant from some 50s idea of what women like. Yet, needing to "give her something in return" to "make up" for bringing stobes is odd. Why not just tell her how excited you are about the new stobes and how you cant wait to take them out for a dive? Why not tell her that whatever they cost was worth it for you and if she has worries about what else it "displaced" in your economy, well have a good talk about that too to make sure everything is in "line". No gear is worth deterioration in a relationship, and these "optional" things we do in life we do for joy and for enhancing happiness in our life. If they come with a side of guilt it defeats the whole point of being involved in this gear-heavy activity. Just my female 2cents worth of thoughts.
  7. Like Mike pointed out above, better be in the ballpark even with TTL - or at least understand the relationship between your strobes GN and distance and aperture. Check what the guide number of your strobe is. GN = distance × aperture. So for example, if your camera is set to ISO 100, say your GN is 32, your strobe (not front of camera) is 4ft from the subject, you would get the correct exposure at f 8. When I started shooting underwater many moons ago, I used to carry a little laminated cheat sheet table with me. However, you will quickly get used to / memorize the setting and you can of course adjust in many ways, for example, cut strobe to half power to if you want a one stop bigger aperture, or move strobes closer for a smaller aperture. But just start with one setting with camera set to ISO100 and strobe(s) at full power, paying attention to your strobe to foreground subject distance. This will tell you how accurate your GN in-water is. You might find that the GN given by the manufacturer is a little "optimistic" and find that perhaps it is a stop or so smaller, but in that case just "adjust" your calculations to that number. Practice this until you feel that you have it down solid and you can "trust" that the light is always behaving the same (it is, but it helps to "get it" ). Then you can start adjusting according at desired effect, while keeping exposure correct, by adjusting you iso and aperture ( but not time, except to change the background brightness).
  8. You can order adhesive "flocking paper" which is paper covered is a velvety surface and cover the front ring around the lens. Also, for lenses with a red focus marker, just take a black sharpie to it. It helps, but you still need to take care when shooting in the direction of the sun and adjust angle accordingly.
  9. Still interested, hoping to hear back from you.
  10. The Nauticam port 87 also works for the Canon 100mm USM, right? If so, im interested. Also interested on the Zen dome. Sending you pm.
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