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Pfiffikus25

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About Pfiffikus25

  • Rank
    Lionfish

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    wolfgang.mathis@tde.at
  • Website URL
    http://www.wolfgang-mathis.at
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Stavanger, Norway

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Norway
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D200
  • Camera Housing
    Aquatica
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z-240
  • Accessories
    ULCS strobe arm, Nikon 60mm Micro, Tokina 10-17mm FE
  1. Paul! Thanks for your answer. What would you estimate to be the minimum diameter of the inner opening? If the whole thing is "useless" in the end, I will just make the white thing as protection cap which is removed during the dive. Problem is, that I will be diving in the Atlantic Ocean soon, partially diving from land. Wind and waves can be quite strong, so I want to protect my gear as good as possible (apart from the insurance). So during the dive I don't need the protection really. Wolfgang
  2. Hi All! I plan to make the following macro port protector: red ... port in aluminum green ... glass of the port white ... clamp on (by tight fit o-ring) port protector blue ... clamp in lid The white part should be installed "permanently" on the port, most likely with a tight fit o-ring or small set screws. The inner diameter hole should be big enough so that the view angle of the 60mm lens is not disturbed. The blue part would be to protect the the remaining little area, although this might not be necessary. I would add some small holes close to the outer circumfence to let water drain away after the dive. The material would be black POM (Delrin). My question: Will the small diameter hole in the white colored cover disturb the light for the lens as long as the viewangle is not disturbed? I would guess that I get less stray light into the lens, which is good. Any ideas of drawbacks? Thanks for any feedback, Wolfgang
  3. Hi Lasse! Thanks for the fast service with the Z-240 some weeks ago! Since I have the possibility to make such stuff at home in my workshop, I decided to make my own ones. The saved money I can use for other gear, which is always needed, right! And the ones I made can be used blindly since I can feel the orientation of the button without looking. Handy during night dives. Do not know if this is the case with the red ones since I did not try them. Might be difficult to feel that nodge with 7mm gloves? Cheers, Wolfgang
  4. Hi Folks! Here how I solved the problem with the all too small knobs. After failing to remove the existing knobs, I decided to go for "overshots" to the existing ones. I know it should be possible to remove them as shown in this thread, but for some reason I did not manage. I really got some good input thanks to this thread ... Material is black POM (Delrin) with two stainless steel screws made to fit The two screws are ground to fit in length and conical in the end to grip into the holes of the existing knobs ... from the side ... from the top They work wonderfully ... happy diving, Wolfgang
  5. Hi! That is a good start. But we have something more robust in mind ... should be capable of going down to 80-100m to explore for wrecks. Constructing the frame and stuff is not a problem. What I do not know is the video stuff. Cheers, Wolfgang
  6. Hi Folks! Want to start a project with a video camera with life feed to the surface. Setup should be as simple and cheap as possible: Video camera in housing Live feed to surface Regular dive light (canister lamp) attached to camera housing Topside we want to use a laptop to get the picture viewed Since I am totally new to video, I got a couple of questions: What camera ... quality of pictures are secondary and it should be cheap What do I need to get live feed? Could I use a 2 phase cable with 3 wires (regular power cable) with 100m (300ft) length? Maybe someone has done this and can give me some hints into the right direction? Thanks, Wolfgang
  7. Hi! I use a D200 in the Aquatica housing and one Z-240. So far I used only manual, and after like 30 dives now I get good exposure most of the time. What would you advise ... stick to manual or try out this converter. The Heinrichs seems to work with the Nikon DX00 series and the Inon Z-240's as it seems. Thanks, Wolfgang
  8. Hi! I got one for sale, only used for one dive and therefore in like new condition. No marks, scratches or any sign of use. Make an offer if you are interested. I live in Norway. Wolfgang
  9. I have the type II, not the type III. If you sell the type II's, let me know. I am after one to upgrade to two strobes. Cheers, Wolfgang
  10. Hi! Regarding the batteries, here what I heard: Inon recommends Eneloop batteries for type III, but any other battery will do. As long as the capacity is not too high. They warn that high capacity MiMH can cause excessive heat which can destroy the flash. Myself I use NiMH up to 2300mAh without any problem so far (about 50 dives with the flash), but I dive in Norway where the water is never warmer than 20 degrees Celsius. How this translates to warmer waters I do not know. But I never ran out of power not even with 2 dives in a row with the 2300mAh, and in cold water the battery capacity goes down, unfortunately. Eneloop have 2000mAh, and I suspect that this quality product from Sanyo delivers just as much as the 2300mAh from no-name producers as I use them now. I will buy two sets (2 x 4 AA) Eneloop in the near future. You can charge them with any charger you use for NiMH, so no additional cost there (if you already have one). I can post my experiences when tested, but as I said I do not expect much difference. Cheers, Wolfgang
  11. Hi! I also got the new one (AF-S). I just started on the D200 with the Aquatica housing, 2 dives with the 60mm so far. And the focus is spot on. BUT I got myself the macro port with the manual focus gear, to be prepared for the 105mm macro lens just in case. I was told that the 105mm lens is hunting much more, so manual focus seems worth having on that one. The port is a bit more expensive, but cheaper than buying both in the end. Cheers, Wolfgang
  12. Hi! If you want to go really deep, I can recommend the Hugyfot housing (a friend dives this, and is very happy with it). It is normally rated to 90m, but for a small fee your housing is rated to 120m (395ft). I do not know about the dome port though, that you would have to ask the producer. Myself I have an Aquatica housing, rated to 90m (295ft) and that is really deep. I started with technical diving a year ago and my depth of confort is 60m at the moment. I think to go into the 80-90m range will take at least two years of training for me. Cheers, Wolfgang
  13. Well, as I said it was the first dive with the Tokina 10-17mm lens. And I liked it a lot, because I did not have wide angle on my P&S camera. How the two lenses compare to reach other, I cannot tell you since I only have one of the two. The fundamental difference (if I am correct?) is that the Tokina is a fish-eye, and the 12-14mm is a rectangular lens. The angle of coverage of the fish-eye lens is substantially bigger than on a rec. lens (at the same focus length). Search the forum for the Tokina 10-17mm, the Nikon 12-24mm and the Sigma 10-20mm lenses, and you will find a lot of info. For the Tokina I have a good link to the web page of on of the members here (Ales Mustard), he did a report about this lens which finally convinced me to go for the Tokina: Tokina article Cheers, Wolfgang
  14. Hi! As promised a few shots with the Nikon AF-S 60mm Micro lens attached to the D200. Experiences: As expected the composition of the picture is more difficult with the macro lens. I applied quite some cropping to these pictures Since macro is the domain of moving life, this adds more complexity in taking a picture ... well, no surprise in that The lens has a very fast focus motor; shutter release lag compared to P&S ... not existing! Using the viewfinder for macro turned out to me easier as I expected. The viewfinder works sufficiently well to see that the focus is on the eyes of the object All pictures were taken with the flash and camera on manual. Either I was lucky, or it is not that hard after all. Some modification was necessart, but not too hard to achieve Digital manipulation: auto contrast, cropping and sharpened with Picasa. Need to get into Photoshop or s.g. similar now. Took all pics with JPG and NEF Dragonet ... a very patient subject, you can approach quite close Lobster Cockoo wrasse
  15. Don't know what a beta light ist, but I would recommend a little LED lamp which can be fixed to the mask band. They are very small these days. This way you have a bit of light for your camera wherever you look at. I use a canister lamp myself with a goodman handle for the head, and if I am in "macro mode" then I just hang the head around my neck. This gives good light to look at camera and strobe. Cheers, Wolfgang
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