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Everything posted by Pfiffikus25

  1. Paul! Thanks for your answer. What would you estimate to be the minimum diameter of the inner opening? If the whole thing is "useless" in the end, I will just make the white thing as protection cap which is removed during the dive. Problem is, that I will be diving in the Atlantic Ocean soon, partially diving from land. Wind and waves can be quite strong, so I want to protect my gear as good as possible (apart from the insurance). So during the dive I don't need the protection really. Wolfgang
  2. Hi All! I plan to make the following macro port protector: red ... port in aluminum green ... glass of the port white ... clamp on (by tight fit o-ring) port protector blue ... clamp in lid The white part should be installed "permanently" on the port, most likely with a tight fit o-ring or small set screws. The inner diameter hole should be big enough so that the view angle of the 60mm lens is not disturbed. The blue part would be to protect the the remaining little area, although this might not be necessary. I would add some small holes close to the outer circumfence to let water drain away after the dive. The material would be black POM (Delrin). My question: Will the small diameter hole in the white colored cover disturb the light for the lens as long as the viewangle is not disturbed? I would guess that I get less stray light into the lens, which is good. Any ideas of drawbacks? Thanks for any feedback, Wolfgang
  3. Hi Lasse! Thanks for the fast service with the Z-240 some weeks ago! Since I have the possibility to make such stuff at home in my workshop, I decided to make my own ones. The saved money I can use for other gear, which is always needed, right! And the ones I made can be used blindly since I can feel the orientation of the button without looking. Handy during night dives. Do not know if this is the case with the red ones since I did not try them. Might be difficult to feel that nodge with 7mm gloves? Cheers, Wolfgang
  4. Hi Folks! Here how I solved the problem with the all too small knobs. After failing to remove the existing knobs, I decided to go for "overshots" to the existing ones. I know it should be possible to remove them as shown in this thread, but for some reason I did not manage. I really got some good input thanks to this thread ... Material is black POM (Delrin) with two stainless steel screws made to fit The two screws are ground to fit in length and conical in the end to grip into the holes of the existing knobs ... from the side ... from the top They work wonderfully ... happy diving, Wolfgang
  5. Hi! That is a good start. But we have something more robust in mind ... should be capable of going down to 80-100m to explore for wrecks. Constructing the frame and stuff is not a problem. What I do not know is the video stuff. Cheers, Wolfgang
  6. Hi Folks! Want to start a project with a video camera with life feed to the surface. Setup should be as simple and cheap as possible: Video camera in housing Live feed to surface Regular dive light (canister lamp) attached to camera housing Topside we want to use a laptop to get the picture viewed Since I am totally new to video, I got a couple of questions: What camera ... quality of pictures are secondary and it should be cheap What do I need to get live feed? Could I use a 2 phase cable with 3 wires (regular power cable) with 100m (300ft) length? Maybe someone has done this and can give me some hints into the right direction? Thanks, Wolfgang
  7. Hi! I use a D200 in the Aquatica housing and one Z-240. So far I used only manual, and after like 30 dives now I get good exposure most of the time. What would you advise ... stick to manual or try out this converter. The Heinrichs seems to work with the Nikon DX00 series and the Inon Z-240's as it seems. Thanks, Wolfgang
  8. Hi! I got one for sale, only used for one dive and therefore in like new condition. No marks, scratches or any sign of use. Make an offer if you are interested. I live in Norway. Wolfgang
  9. I have the type II, not the type III. If you sell the type II's, let me know. I am after one to upgrade to two strobes. Cheers, Wolfgang
  10. Hi! Regarding the batteries, here what I heard: Inon recommends Eneloop batteries for type III, but any other battery will do. As long as the capacity is not too high. They warn that high capacity MiMH can cause excessive heat which can destroy the flash. Myself I use NiMH up to 2300mAh without any problem so far (about 50 dives with the flash), but I dive in Norway where the water is never warmer than 20 degrees Celsius. How this translates to warmer waters I do not know. But I never ran out of power not even with 2 dives in a row with the 2300mAh, and in cold water the battery capacity goes down, unfortunately. Eneloop have 2000mAh, and I suspect that this quality product from Sanyo delivers just as much as the 2300mAh from no-name producers as I use them now. I will buy two sets (2 x 4 AA) Eneloop in the near future. You can charge them with any charger you use for NiMH, so no additional cost there (if you already have one). I can post my experiences when tested, but as I said I do not expect much difference. Cheers, Wolfgang
  11. Hi! I also got the new one (AF-S). I just started on the D200 with the Aquatica housing, 2 dives with the 60mm so far. And the focus is spot on. BUT I got myself the macro port with the manual focus gear, to be prepared for the 105mm macro lens just in case. I was told that the 105mm lens is hunting much more, so manual focus seems worth having on that one. The port is a bit more expensive, but cheaper than buying both in the end. Cheers, Wolfgang
  12. Hi! If you want to go really deep, I can recommend the Hugyfot housing (a friend dives this, and is very happy with it). It is normally rated to 90m, but for a small fee your housing is rated to 120m (395ft). I do not know about the dome port though, that you would have to ask the producer. Myself I have an Aquatica housing, rated to 90m (295ft) and that is really deep. I started with technical diving a year ago and my depth of confort is 60m at the moment. I think to go into the 80-90m range will take at least two years of training for me. Cheers, Wolfgang
  13. Well, as I said it was the first dive with the Tokina 10-17mm lens. And I liked it a lot, because I did not have wide angle on my P&S camera. How the two lenses compare to reach other, I cannot tell you since I only have one of the two. The fundamental difference (if I am correct?) is that the Tokina is a fish-eye, and the 12-14mm is a rectangular lens. The angle of coverage of the fish-eye lens is substantially bigger than on a rec. lens (at the same focus length). Search the forum for the Tokina 10-17mm, the Nikon 12-24mm and the Sigma 10-20mm lenses, and you will find a lot of info. For the Tokina I have a good link to the web page of on of the members here (Ales Mustard), he did a report about this lens which finally convinced me to go for the Tokina: Tokina article Cheers, Wolfgang
  14. Hi! As promised a few shots with the Nikon AF-S 60mm Micro lens attached to the D200. Experiences: As expected the composition of the picture is more difficult with the macro lens. I applied quite some cropping to these pictures Since macro is the domain of moving life, this adds more complexity in taking a picture ... well, no surprise in that The lens has a very fast focus motor; shutter release lag compared to P&S ... not existing! Using the viewfinder for macro turned out to me easier as I expected. The viewfinder works sufficiently well to see that the focus is on the eyes of the object All pictures were taken with the flash and camera on manual. Either I was lucky, or it is not that hard after all. Some modification was necessart, but not too hard to achieve Digital manipulation: auto contrast, cropping and sharpened with Picasa. Need to get into Photoshop or s.g. similar now. Took all pics with JPG and NEF Dragonet ... a very patient subject, you can approach quite close Lobster Cockoo wrasse
  15. Don't know what a beta light ist, but I would recommend a little LED lamp which can be fixed to the mask band. They are very small these days. This way you have a bit of light for your camera wherever you look at. I use a canister lamp myself with a goodman handle for the head, and if I am in "macro mode" then I just hang the head around my neck. This gives good light to look at camera and strobe. Cheers, Wolfgang
  16. Hi! Good idea ... got those essential diving parts always with me (cable ties in various sizes and duct tape). Saved quite some dives Will try tonight! Any other experiments out there? Wolfgang
  17. Hi! I recently switched from P&S to dSLR and I use one Inon Z-240 at the moment. Previously it was no problem to use the strobe with thick gloves, since I used it in sTTL with the P&S camera. So basically only on/off and some compenstaion once and a while. But now I plan to shoot the strobe in manual, and winter is setting in. So with the thick gloves it will be difficult to adjust the exposure for every shot I take. Has anyone experience in modification of the little knobs of the Inon Z-240, so that it gets easier to manipulate them with thick gloves. I usually use 7mm, 3-finger gloves. I also read somewhere that Hugyfot makes replacement knobs for the Inon strobe suitable for cold water. But I do not know where I read that, nor can I find any information that these knobs exist. Thanks for your help, Wolfgang
  18. Hi Geo! I do not have much experience with the SLR gear so far, only one dive with the wide-angle lens because I was so curious about the new possibilities. Also, there are quite a few bigger wrecks (up to 140m, 460ft) I can reach within 2-3 hours from where I live, so this offers great opportunities for wide angle. On the P&S I was mainly shooting macro because of its limitations, in fact none of the shots of wrecks I tried are worth so show anyone. At the moment I am equipped with the Tokina 10-17mm, the Nikon 60mm Micro. So both, macro and wide-angle are possible now. Using the viewfinder of the SLR in wide-angle on this first dive I did not find too difficult. Water depth was only 20m, no current and a nice sandy bottom as reference. And the wide-angle is somewhat forgiving due to the wide coverage. However, I have cropped the pictures only marginally. It might look different when I think of the depth and the location of the other wrecks though (and the deco with all the necessary additional equipment I will have to face). Also I think it will be more difficult when shooting macro (adjusting the focus directly to the eyes of a fish, getting the correct composition, getting an upward angle, etc.). But I will find out this Thursday when I will use it. Another big difference is the handling under water. Although bulkier than the P&S, the camera handling is much easier due to the ergonomic handles. I find it easier to change the settings of the camera since there is a dedicated knob for all relevant functions on the camera. Also the shutter release lever is a big advantage, no need to hold the camera in awkward style to take a picture. And this big ting is much steadier in the water. The good thing about my old P&S was, that I had full control over aperture and shutter time. So I am familiar with the settings I need to set. I guess that someone only shooting in automatic mode will have a much harder time to get used to a SLR camera. But the downside is that I used sTTL with the Inon Z-240, which gave me good exposure in 9 out of 10 cases. Right now I have to run the flash manually, since I do not have a TTL converter yet. So this will take some time until I can master this. So far so good. More experiences to be made as I grow more into the new gear. Looking forward to winter time here, when the nudibranches come out and mate. Got a lot of good pics last winter, until then I have to be ready with the new gear to proceed from that level. If you have further questions, just ask. Cheers, Wolfgang
  19. Hi There! Wanted to post some pictures I took with my new (but second hand bought) gear: Nikon D200, Aquatica housing, Tokina 10-17mm (all at 10mm end) and Inon Z-240. Well, it was my first dive with a SLR. Before I was shooting a P&S (Canon A620) only. Unfortunately the visibility was less than expected; so don't be too hard on the quality, I know there is lots to learn before the pics get better. One thing I would like to know: What do you think about the composition?
  20. Hi Folks! Interesting thread ... but I am still in the dark on my choice: My gear: Nikon D200, Aquatica housing I will be going to the US in 2 weeks and I do not have any UW lense yet. My budget allows 2 lenses and I was thinking about the following ones: 1) 60mm Macro 2) 105mm Macro 3) Sigma 10-20mm 4) Tokina 10-17mm FE Option (1) is very certain, as I am quite a bit into macro and the water here in Norway gives plenty of small stuff. Unfortunately I do not have experience with any of these lenses. Most of you talk about the 60mm as the absolute standard lense which gets plenty of use for fish portrait and medium size critters. But what is medium size really? Is it worth to invest into the 105mm macro then to go smaller? Ok, to add complexity to this whole topic: I will be going to Egypt for the wreck tour in November. So a wide angle should be in my bag. Then, option (3) or (4). Many comment the fish eyes as very hard to use for beginners, which I am. Is option (3) then the better choice to start with? As I said, I can only affort 2 lenses right now. Ultimately I think I will go for all of the ones I mentioned. But htat will take some time. Hope anyone has some tip for me Cheers, Wolfgang
  21. Hi Bruce! This is a really good tip, thanks. No soldering necessary. I will triy this asap Just to make sure, when you talk about the "middle pin" you mean the one I have numbered with 1 in the sketch I attached to my initial post. Cheers, Wolfgang
  22. Hi! I bought a second hand Aquatica housing for my Nikon D200, I have a Inon Z-240 to start with. The housing has 2 bulkhead connectors, and currently wired for external TTL on both bulkheads. My question: Since I want to experiment with the strobe in manual, how do I rewire the second bulkhead to get manual exposure? I attached a diagram of the current wiring, maybe someone can give me a link or a sketch of how I need to rewire the bulkhead! OR: Can I just set the Inon Z-240 into manual mode and connect it to the external TTL bulkhead without "destroying" something? Thanks for your help on this ... I need to get into the water with this stuff! Cheers, Wolfgang
  23. Hi! Gave it a few more tries with DEPP, no success: Hi. This is the qmail-send program at mail.gmx.net. I'm afraid I wasn't able to deliver your message to the following addresses. This is a permanent error; I've given up. Sorry it didn't work out. <Info@IPGInsurance.com>: Sorry,_I_wasn't_able_to_establish_an_SMTP_connection._(#4.4.1)/I'm_not_going_to_try_again;_this_message_has_been_in_the_queue_too_long./ <Sandy@EquipmentProtection.com>: Sorry,_I_wasn't_able_to_establish_an_SMTP_connection._(#4.4.1)/I'm_not_going_to_try_again;_this_message_has_been_in_the_queue_too_long./ Damn ... my homeowners insurance will not insure against flooding, DAN does not insure outside the US (I live in Norway) ... the only insurance I could find charges 8% of the value. I am a bit lost, any ideas?
  24. Hi! Some comments on the housing: I just aquired a second hand Aquatica housing, and it just fells right. As mentioned earlier it is "middle class", in the BMW class if you want. So far I haven't used it much, but I am very happy with it. I have several buddies using Ikelite, and they are much mure bulky than the Aquatica (station wagon vs. sports car . This applies to all "plastic" houstings compared to aluminium housings. Unfortunately Subal, Seacam, ... are out of my price range. These belong to the top class, but are good no doubt about that. If you compare housings, take the ports into consideration. The housing alone is not all you need. E.g., the dome port for the Aquatica is around 420$, the dome port for Subal > 2000$ (I think). Sure, the Subal is made from glas, the Aquatica is acryl. Recently Aquatica introduced a glas dome port as well, that goes for 1500$. You see, lots of choices there as well ... just to add some to the general confusion I am just trying to clear up for myself a bit. Regarding the "underwater photography" ... it combines two skills, diving and photography. You obviously bring the photography part from your professtion. So for the diving part please take some time and easy dive spots before you let yourself loose. Diving in principal is easy to learn, but diving with a camera is different. You will have to aquire the skill of buoyancy control to a high degree before you will be able to take good pictures and not harm the underwater life. You will have to dive upside down, on your back, etc. The control of your position in the water has to become a second nature for you, if you need to think of your BDC you are lost and will harm the environment or yourself. Finally a warning ... diving and underwater photography is highly addictive, and there is no cure!
  25. Hi! What is the name of the insurance company? And maybe you hace a link? Wolfgang
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