Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


froop last won the day on November 19 2021

froop had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

9 Neutral

About froop

  • Rank

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Fujifilm X-T3
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam NA-XT3
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z-240 + Inon Z-220S
  • Accessories
    ULCS arms, 10bar focus light

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Well after a yet another lockdown down here in Melbourne, I finally managed to get out diving again, this time at Flinders Pier in search of the resident smooth ray and some weedy sea dragons (hint: not too hard to find there!) Again with the 16-45mm + WWL-C. I made a small tweak with my flash set up - last time I took out my camera in (for a night dive) the Nauticam hotshoe adapter managed to get slightly dislodged someone in transit from my home to the water. The adapter doesn't have any positive locking mechanism, so this time out I used the Fujifilm EF-X8 mini hot-shoe mount flash, set it to (M)anual and dialed the exposure as low as possible. This still triggers the strobes, but minimises battery drain. And it has a positive lock so no chance of being dislodged. The ray snuck up on me while I was fiddling with switching settings from video to still, so managed to snap one quick pic with whatever my camera settings were before flicking back for a couple of seconds of video.
  2. And I just checked the nauticam website again (https://www.nauticam.com/pages/n100-fujifilm-xt3-and-xh1-port-chart) and the port chart (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EZCtRd9_efQO4hlPsN7IawKHPme1IwQ4) is now labelled Rev 21.6 (June 2021?) and shows the zoom range as 18-45mm. The lens "quirks" I think are a result of a bug in how it operates on the X-T3. It doesn't do that with my Fujifilm X-A7. The playback hassle is reduced by increasing the instant playback duration, so it's not that often I need to hit the play button. Although it would certainly be better if it didn't do that!
  3. The port chart for Fuji actually says not vignetting at 15mm. The 15-45mm is actually not a favourite lens of mine. The only reason I have it is because it came as the kit lens with a Fuji X-A7 that I bought as a walk-around body. It has two very frustrating quirks with the zoom - one is that it is a motorised zoom - the zoom ring is a spring-loaded control - the further you twist it the fast it zooms. That doesn't transfer very well to the housing zoom control as I can't just let it go to stop zooming. The second quirk is that when the camera goes into playback mode, the lens retracts first before playback mode starts. Then when the camera exits playback, the lens doesn't remember where it was zoomed to. And those two quirks together are a PITA! Dive site is Blairgowrie Yacht Club. I'm constantly deflated when I compare my photos to some of the awesome underwater pics that I see other people posting. I like to think that I'm slowly working my way up from "crap" to "awesome" via "nice"
  4. Last weekend I left the macro behind and took out the 15-45 with the WWL-C instead. Even though the dive site was more of a small critter site than one that called for wide angle, it's not like I'm taking out an 8mm fish eye... Anyway, I was happily surprised by the versatility of this combo, even managing a decent shot of a nudibranch at 45mm. At 15mm, there is a quite a lot of vignetting, to the point of seeing the edges of the dome in the corners, so for the wide shots I definitely need to allow for some cropping. I've included the out-of-the-camera version of the first pic to illustrate.
  5. Yeah I know! I was certainly trying. Maybe just not patient enough It was a pier dive, and although there is often a fair bit of life hanging around the pylons, on this dive all the critters seemed to be down in the sand. The crab, squid and seahorse were pretty much taken with my camera sitting on the sea bed - there was no way I'd have been able to get those shots without the 45º.
  6. Managed to get out on a night dive last night, first outing with the 45º viewfinder. Won't lie, it takes a bit of getting used to! Few sample shots from my outing. I'm still nowhere good a photographer as my gear should allow me to become I was trying to avoid making any camera adjustments, focusing on, well, focus . I pretty much left ISO at 250, SS at 1/250 and aperture at f/9. All shot with my 2x Z240's on manual mode, each with a -0.5 diffuser, and power output between the 4 and 5.6 markers, using flash output to adjust exposure. I thought I was giving myself a bit of a DoF margin at f/9, but missed the sweet focus spot a fair bit. Happy to take critique from anyone willing to offer
  7. @ido my interpretation of your question is what is the weight of the camera rig that you have to lug to the dive site (along with the rest of your gear), as opposed to how much weight it's going to add to your travel luggage, or what its negative buoyancy will be. I have a mirrorless Fuji X-T3 in a Nauticam housing, with 2x Inon Z240 strobes, 4x ULCS arms, and 6x ULCS clamps. When using it with the 80mm macro and matching port, the whole rig weighs about 7.5kg.
  8. Thanks for all your replies. I resealed the housing and re-vac'd it - this time when it turned green I finished the pump and did one more. My dive was about 6hrs later, and still green. One hour dive, max depth 7m, no leaks.
  9. I have a Nauticam housing with their vacuum system. For a morning dive, I usually seal my camera the night before, and if the light is still green in the morning, I'm happy to dive. A few days ago I installed a 45º view finder, and I'm off on a dusk dive this evening. In the morning I sealed and vacuumed my housing. At lunch, the light was fluttering between orange and green. I've opened it and inspected the port, viewfinder and main o-rings, re-sealed and re-vacuumed it. But I'm not sure if I vacuumed it enough initially, and if the orange flicker was just the sensor adjusting to temperature fluctuations. My central heating kicks on at 6:30 am, and I sealed my housing around 8:30am, while the house was reasonably warm. Heating turns off again at 9am, so at lunch time the temp has dropped a few degrees. When I pumped the vacuum, I stopped mid-stroke on the pump just as the light turned green. Is this sufficient, or should I give it a little bit more suck after the light goes green to allow for temperature fluctuations?
  10. Finally! An instructional YouTube video that I don't need to speed up to 1.5x or 2x! (Not being facetious - this is the perfect pace. Maybe just because I'm in Oz too)
  11. Pretty sure this is what you're after. I'm in Australia, but happy to ship if you're happy to pay. PM if interested.
  12. Taken in raw, processed in LR. I shoot Raw+JPG, with no film simulations. As a comparison, below are the jpgs as taken straight from the camera before processing in LightRoom.
  13. The viewfinder is the same for mirrorless and DSLR housings, just the mounting adapter is different. To convert from a DSLR housing to a mirrorless housing, get one of these: https://www.backscatter.com/Nauticam-Viewfinder-Collar-Adaptor-for-32201-and-32203-to-Use-on-Mirrorless-MIL-Housings Edit: Oops, the link provided is to convert from DSLR to Mirrorless, not the other way around. To convert the mirrorless to DSLR, you need this one: https://www.backscatter.com/Nauticam-Viewfinder-Collar-Adaptor-for-32204-and-32205-on-DSLR-Housings
  • Create New...