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froop

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froop last won the day on February 16 2022

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About froop

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    Lionfish

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Australia
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Fujifilm X-T3
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam NA-XT3
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z-240 + Inon Z-220S
  • Accessories
    ULCS arms, 10bar focus light

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  1. Has been a while since I've posted any pics here on wetpixel, so here's a sampling of a local(ish) shore dive from Sunday night. A toasty 12ºC in the water! Fujifilm XF-80mm f/2.8 macro 2x Inon Z-240 2x Kraken 3500S+ (Focus lights and GoPro video lights)
  2. Nanuk cases weren't on my radar at all - haven't come across them much at all. Maybe just not common in Australia? Case choice really came down to weight and dimensions. The Pelican 1610 is a touch too small, and not quite deep enough hold my housing or float arms upright. Plus not being part of the Air range, weighs a bit more that the 1637 and the HPRC. The Pelican 1637 is a similar volume and same linear length as the HPRC 2760, but its deeper and shorter, whereas the HPRC is shallower and longer. This gave me less depth, but more area to work with. The depth of the HPRC was perfect for my housing and also to fit my float arms vertically. Getting the depth right meant more efficient use of the three dimension space
  3. First thing I did was set up a tripod looking straight down, then took photos of each piece of equipment, getting pics showing the front, side and top of each piece. Then brought them into a photo editor, and scaled them to the right size. Created notes about my preference on how to store them, or how many (eg, multiple arms, clamps, strobes, etc), and created a PDF with all items scaled and measurements marked. Then placed them all how I thought they could fit onto the right sized template. Then sent the place a PDF of everything, got a quote, then actually left all the gear with them. They double checked all my measurements, and designed it all up in CAD, then cut it all out in a throw-away cheap foam to check tolerances, adjusted CAD and then cut it for real.
  4. Heading off to Beqa Lagoon Resort in Fiji this weekend, and picked up my equipment case with new CNC cut foam inserts just in time! The open square areas I'll use for assorted small stuff like strobe cables, spare orings, grease, chargers etc. The case is a HPRC 2760, which is exactly 158 linear cm (62 linear inches) so is as big as a checked bag can get with most airlines before being considered over size. By the time I add in the extras, it'll probably end up around 23-25kg, which falls under most (but not all) airline international check bag weights. Much better than the previous effort from a different supplier, who found it too hard to do a two-layer fit out:
  5. To be honest I just forgot - From when I was looking, I only really recall the Nauticam as being the only viable option for me. Looking again, I may have got my wires crossed - the Subal IMO is way overpriced for what appears to be a rather unergonomic housing. The Ikelite is a little better, but for me it feels like Nauticam started out thinking where the external controls should be and how they should work, and then figuring out how to transfer the control the camera body. Whereas all the others are have been designed by starting with the camera controls, and then thinking about the simplest way to transfer them to the housing - adding ergonomics if it seemed practical. You could argue that has resulted in much simpler internals in the Ikelite, and made the Nauticam overly complex and more difficult to service, but for me its worth it.
  6. Of the two that @msdeedee .. The $2200 one with the dome appears to be good value. The dome, zoom ring and exenstion for the 10-24 will set you back well over $2k new. And another $1k if you don't already have the 10-24mm The more expensive ($2500) one comes with no ports, so you'll need to buy them separately. See my thread ( https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/69061-nauticam-wwl-c-vs-180mm-dome ) about the 15-45mm and the WWL-C vs the 10-24 and 180mm dome. Consensus is that the 15-45 w/ WWL-C is a better combination, but assuming that $2,200 housing with dome is in good condition, and you already have the 10-24mm it's probably your cheapest path to taking your XT-3 underwater.
  7. I would suggest you take a look at DaVinci Resolve over Premier or Final Cut. It's a production quality suite that started life as a color grading tool, but now competes (or outdoes) both PP and FCP in editing, VFX and SFX. The free version is limited to 4k, does not utilise GPU as much the the paid version, and does not unlock a lot of the fancy FX. If you want any of that stuff, the paid version is US$295 and includes upgrades for life.
  8. I'm not sure about the newer versions, but with the old 45º view finders (33205 for mirrorless, 33203 for DSLR) the actual viewfinders are identical, with the only difference being the length of the mount through the housing. A conversion from one to the other is a simply changeover of the mount piece. My NA-XT3 housing, which is actually a mirrorless camera, requires the DSLR viewfinder. This is from Nauticam:
  9. Having gone through this same process around 12 months ago, pretty much your only "real" options are Nauticam or Subal. I don't know what their availability is like new, and you're going to have to be pretty lucky to find a second hand one. You can keep an eye on https://www.uwcamerastore.com/gebruikt-demo I found a second hand Nauticam NA-XT3 there, which I have been extremely happy with.
  10. I have the zoom gear for the 10-24 and the extension required - got it at the same time I bought my second hand housing. I've chatted to someone else who shoots a Canon 8-15mm Fisheye on an XT-3 using a Fringer. I don't need to shoot wider enough to justify another $6k+ for the lens, adapter, gears, extension and dome. I could almost justify just the 180mm dome if it was going to add anything, but it seems not. So I'll just stick with what I have and spend the money on a diving holiday instead
  11. Thanks the response @chrisross - a wealth of knowledge as always! Sounds like an expensive experiment for questionable (if any) gain. Until now I've not really taken a close look at just how much I miss at the wide end - so I've found a few shots in my LightRoom catalog with the 15-45 at the wide end. Here are some uncropped, unedited samples. From my results, Nauticam's listed zoom range of 18-15 with the 15-45mm/WWL-C combination could probably be revised to 17-45 Shot at 15mm. Substantial cropping required: Shot at 16.1mm. Only a little bit of cropping needed: Shot at 16.6mm. Very little if any cropping required - bit hard to tell with the harsh shadows, but this was the widest photo I could find that showed no vignetting.
  12. For the past year I've been using my Fujifilm XT-3 in a Nauticam NA-XT3 housing, predominantly with the 15-45mm lens and WWL-C, and occasionally with a flat port used with my 80mm macro. I've been pretty happy with my results, with the limiting factor still my skill rather than my equipment. The 15-45/WWL-C combination works pretty well, except that there is vignetting wider than 18mm. Not too much of an issue given the usual location conditions. I have planned a trip to clearer waters later this year which should provide more opportunity for wider angle photography, so I'm considering purchasing the 180mm dome and use the 10-24mm zoom. I could also use my 18-55mm with the 180mm dome. When I originally reached out to Nauticam for their advice, the response was that the 15-45mm would be "far sharper combination than the 18-55mm and 10-24mm behind the 180mm dome" Any opinions?
  13. Hmm.. not the ones I got from https://underwater.com.au/shop/fibre-optic-d-cable-inon-l-type-l-rubber-bush-set-2.html I'm assuming that since the older versions are so old now, there is not much demand, therefore not much supply of the larger connector.
  14. For once I'm posting not a question, but my experience for anyone else who may find themselves in a similar position to me. I have two Inon Z-240 strobes - one is an old Type 1, and the other a Type 4. Some subtle differences, but for all intents and purposes they're the same strobe when it comes to using them. One difference is the optical sensor. The Type 1 (and I think Types 2 and 3 too) have a great big bulky sensor, whereas the Type 4 has a slightly smaller one: Up until now I've been using optical cables that have the Sea&Sea connector on each end - one end pushes into the housing, the other into the cap that fits over the strobe's sensor. On my last outing, something snagged the cable, ripped it in half, and pulled the swivel piece out of the sensor cap. In the pic below you can see cap on the right has a swivelling insert that the cable plug into. The one of the left went bye-bye. So I ordered myself two new cables, keeping my single remaining existing cable as a spare. I bought two of these cables, that stated were compatible with Z240 and Z330 strobes. But the screw connector is too small to fit over the great bit hulking sensor on the Type 1. Luckily I had in my spares box a sensor cap that had a blanking cap in the hole - must've been from when I used to use an electronic sync cable. It just happened that the blanking hole was exactly the same size as the one on the Inon "L" cable. So I simply had to disassemble the "L" connector and replace the cap. It does mean that only one of my cables will attach to the Type 4 strobe. Big deal. I noticed that the connector was pushing a bit hard against the optical sensor. Once tightened down, the cable hardly rotated. So I disassembled again, removed the cable, and rubbed the inside of the connector on some sandpaper to take a few thou off: End result - fits perfectly. Very happy with the outcome. Yes, I know I could've searched a little harder and found a replacement cap (http://www.divervision.com/howshot-fiber-adapter-for-inon-strobe-older-slave-sensor-FA-SS2IN.html) before buying the Inon cable. But once I had the cable, I wanted to be able to use it!
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