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Everything posted by BrianM

  1. Dave, that sounds a bit risky. If you are interested in chopping the port down have a look at this thread http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15634 The way you suggest, the two surfaces would have to be perfectly flat and acrylic glue may not be suitable for a long term joint coping with changing pressure, temperature and water.
  2. Keri, that's also good work. The more people that can make professional adapters like you the better. Where did you get you diffuser material from? Regards to you and Les.
  3. If you mean the lens creates a shadow in the flash, then just move the diffuser to the end of the lens. I use a piece of elastic to hold it in place and get no shadow even with 2 lenses stacked.
  4. Maybe I'm just lucky then. I've had my ancient Suunto Solution for 17 years, never had a problem with it other than several changes of battery, which I do myself. Then again I'm a firm believer in 'If it ain't broke don't fix or replace it'. Similarly my wife and has had her Uwatec Aladin Pro just as long without any problems either, so maybe it's only the gadget laden new stuff that fails, after all don't Engineers believe that 'if it ain’t broke, it doesn’t have enough features yet!'
  5. Yes, that adapter looks as if it will work pretty well. So those who don't want to do my DIY method can now buy something similar to you. How does it work underwater, do you get any vignetting from the adapter with wide angle shots or is it OK?
  6. I always try practicing stuff like this in the housing at my desk with some suitable subjects, that way it's easier when I come to do it underwater when I need to get it right.
  7. Those photos look pretty good to me, so I'm pleased you like the housing mod. For focusing I prefer to press the shutter half way and get the focus lock light, then carefully move back and forth very slightly to get the depth of field where I want it, judging this by eye.
  8. Lovely shots Gary. It shows just how much life there is on this old wreck. The self-portrait is priceless too mate. Crop it and you've got yourself a new avatar.
  9. Gary that's a great find, I've searched a lot of soft coral for one of those crabs but haven't found one yet. The blenny is real cute with that smile.
  10. Jim mate, I'm getting a Déjà vu.
  11. The UFL-165AD & UCL-165AD lenses are a bayonet fit so you wouldn't be able to use them with a filter thread solution like mine. Though I do know someone in a similar situation to you and he used a cable tie to fix two strips of Velcro to the lens and the glued the other halves of the Velcro to his housing port.
  12. I haven't tried the wide angle lens because on the G9 housing (the same for you I think) the lens port is long to accommodate the 6 x optical zoom. With the camera lens at it's widest 35mm equivalent, an Inon wide angle lens would vignette quite a bit, so you would need to zoom in to get rid of the vignetting and once you do that you reduce the wide angle. By how much I don't know, but I think you could find it renders it little better than 35mm. This why Ikelite and Patima have short port options on their G9 housings, so that wide angle wet lenses can be used effectively. Of course you could buy another Canon housing and chop the port down like Auder did here http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15634
  13. I used a 62mm to 67mm ring to reduce the width of the ring to a minimum so that the ring didn't vignette the lens when the camera was zoomed out to it's widest. So you need to be careful here with your choice of stepping rings.
  14. All useful reminders, as if one were needed, that no photo is worth getting injured or dying for.
  15. OK Cal, I confess it's me causing the distortion on your Flickr hits. I only ever look at your full framed brightly coloured images. Only joking, of course I look at tiny dull ones too. I'm not sure hits on Flickr are a good indicator of taste. Hits also depend on your tags and descriptions, so photos with more common and popular tags will naturally get more hits.
  16. Me too. Mine was diagnosed as tendinitis. I got it in both wrists and thumbs and it took ages to go away. I first noticed it on a 2 month trip round Western Australia. The doctor reckoned it was caused by tightly gripping my Ikelite setup when diving followed by long stints of driving and gripping the wheel waiting for a roo to leap out on me. I still get twinges when driving long distances, but I know enough now to rest when I get the first signs. So it was this that made me downsize to a compact system and go for minimum weight. My old setup weighed 3lbs in the water and with hindsight, I should have got some flotation to make it neutral as I feel this contributed to the grip problem.
  17. Hi Les, I didn't find the spec sheet, I picked up my info here http://www.camerasunderwater.co.uk/general...s/inon_m67.html Until you started mentioning the figures, I was going by my gut feeling of using the two lenses, always a dangerous thing to do I know, but I was just offering an opinion. When you were sure the SubSee had a higher magnification than the Inon, I went off to do my sums. I'll see what I can do with photographic verification for you. Until I lost my SubSee, I had intended to make some sort of fixture to hold it and use for macro shots. Though with the port length on my WP-DC21, I think I would have got a fair bit of vignetting and would need to zoom the G9 lens quite a bit to avoid it. I have enough trouble with getting the focus where I want it with stacked Inon's, so I imagine it would even more difficult with stacked SubSee's. You are talking +20 dioptre, that's an angular magnification of 5, so if you got the focus, the shots must be amazing! Cheers Brian
  18. Les, I was thinking of two stacked Inons when I said it gave greater magnification. The Inon has a +6.06 diopter in water and two stacked have the equivalent of +12.12 and a focal length of 83mm. Using 250mm as the near point distance, I calculate the angular magnification as follows Subsee (focal length 100mm, +10 dioptre) Magnification = 250/100 = 2.5 Inon (focal length 165mm, +6.06 dioptre) Magnification = 250/165 = 1.52 Inon x 2 (focal length 83mm, +12.12 dioptre) Magnification = 250/83 = 3.01 I don't think it's correct when you say the Inon loses 70% of its magnifying power in water. Perhaps you are thinking of a standard magnifying glass. In air the Inon focal length is 135.6mm, + 7.37 diopter which gives it an angular magnification of 250/135.6 = 1.84 So the magnification of a single Inon lens loses 17% of it's magnifying power in water. I estimate that a 67mm Inon has between 3 and 4 times the viewing area of the Subsee, which I think makes it more practical to use.
  19. Congrats to all the winners. Lovely photos all of them. I can't help thinking that Jim Lyle's swimming jawfish with eggs, should have got more than an HM.
  20. I used to have one of the SubSea magnifiers but lost it when it fell out of my jacket (I guess I didn't tie it on properly). It was OK but a bit expensive for what it does. Since then I have found that my Inon UCL-165 macro lenses work even better. The 67mm size is a bigger viewing area, they are more powerful and can be stacked together to give even greater magnification. So if you are likely to use a wet macro lens at some stage, save your money for that instead.
  21. They don't look super saturated to me, maybe I need a spyder.
  22. Alex, I love the first one. Shark and sunset, excellent. :-)
  23. Dave, I use the G9 and Canon housing with UCL-165 macro lenses. To see how, click on the pink link in my signature below. I think the macro lens is a big help, for examples have a look at my recent flickr photos
  24. Wow, cool effect, Jeremy. You have missed your vocation, you should be producing computer games.
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