
nortoda1
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Posts posted by nortoda1
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Cheers Alex, subsee it is then.
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I have just taken the FX plunge (D800) after a decade of DX (D70, D300). I've invested in a 105VR and can use my old sea and sea NX stanard flat port with the SX extension after a small modification to the inside of the port. Now to the questions;
What are my best options for super macro
I have a 6T diopter, but will need to purchase the 40mm extension to use this. Adding the 40mm exntension will mean there is about 2.5cm gap between the diopter and the port glass, will this have any negative effects? Will it have any negative effects if I add a wet lense (e.g. subsee)? If people think the 6T is a good option I will most likely also purchase the subsee +10 to use with and without the 6T
Am I better off purchasing subsee +5 and +10 and forgetting about the 6T? Or should I be considering one of the other wet diopter options???
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I've had an mdx300 to 80m a few times with no issues. Have mdx800 now which is rated to 100m, the only issue is I'm still using optical glass dome which is only rated to 60m.
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Hi Tdpriest
What lense(s) did you use on that trip? 16-35mm?
cheers
Darragh
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Hi SwiftFF%,
yes, I saw that thread. Not looking for an alarm that goes off when there is water inside. More looking to build the equivalent to one of the other vacuum sensors on the market. LED that goes green when you pull a vacuum down to say 800mBar, and red the vacuum starts to increase above 850mBar.
cheers
Darragh
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Anyone good with electronics and built their own leak detector based on a barometer? This looks like a good start;
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11282
Obviously in conjuntion with one of the vacuum systems.
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Sea&Sea zoom gear for Tok 10-17 FE or Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L USM & II lenses 100euros.
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Tokina and housing sold. Camera with batteries and charger available for 400euros and S&S Tokina 10-17mm zoom gear 100 euro
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Tokina is sold
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went with the D800 in the end, much better AF and its been on the market long enough to iron out bugs. I definitely don't need 36mp, but they I'm thinking I will be al ot more critical of keepers, which can only be a good thing.
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sync cords are Ike to Ike. The TTL converter is ike strobe to nikonos type bulkhead connector
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Underwater housing sea&sea D300mdx with Nikon D300 body 1200euros (including 2 batteries and charger). Will also throw in 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5 AF-S DX.
They are used but in very good condition.
Also for sale Tokina 10-17mm F/3.5-4.5 DX nikon fit 370euros, pristine condition.
S&S Tokina 10-17mm zoom gear 100 euro
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How does the US rrp of $1995 equate to a uk price of stg1799. Someone's having a laugh, I'll either be purchasing a d610 from the US or buying a d800 from uk for stg 1950, no way I'd pay stg1799 for a D610.
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Thanks for the information Alistair. AF not really an issue for deep wrecks, but available light is. Was thinking the D600 would offer the ability to push the iso to 3200 or even 6400 with little sacrafice in quality. I am a little concerned that the AF coverage would irritate me for more general uw photography, macro etc.
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Nice shot Rob. Will wait till Tuesday and see what Nikon announce. If it is only the fps they upgrade, might try to get a discontinued D600.
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Nikon are to announce the D610 on Tuesday. I've used a D300 for the last 3 years and really like it. But I need something with much better low light performance as I now do much of my diving in to wrecks in 60-80m range in Irish waters. Was considering the D600, it seems to be fantastic at low light and is very reasonably priced, the only thing that puts me off is the really AF system. I've considered the D800, but it is considerably more expense, and I definitely dont need 36MP.
Rumours so far is that there will only be a slight increase in fps, from 5.5 to 6. Increase the area the AF covers and I would buy one in a shot.
Anyone out there using the D600 and how you finding it?
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Hi Marco
What conclusion did you come to with the dome? I have one for my D300, now thinking of going FX and wondering will it be suitable with the sigma 15mm FE.
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Trevor
I can tell you what I do know - only 2 wires required to trigger strobe manually, that would be the centre point on the hotshoe (the trigger) and the rail of the hotshoe (earth). Not sure what you want to do, but if you want to connect a strobe directly to the ttl converter bilkhead all you need to do is cover all contacts on the hotshoe with the exception of the trigger and earth with some masking tape.
best of luck with whatever your up to
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I have the same issue. Not so sure its wear (will have a look this evening). However I found that after attaching the camera if I give it a little tweek in a anti-clockwise direction it resolves the issue.
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Its not all about size Tdpriest
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+1 for Jim
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Thanks Ryan. Manual it is then
FS Nikon iTTL adapter with Nikonos connector ikelite #4302
in Classifieds
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