softnuance

I want to repair a crack on my diving lamp (plastic) ... will Crazyglue hold at 60 feet underwater?

I finally made the same test in a pool … and all the problems were gone. -No noise -No vertical bars -Colors and contrasts… there is none in the bottom of a pool

I am always suspicious when they sell an HD pin hole cam. LiquidImage website gives a link to The quality of the video is ok for the product sold. When I make my own tests with the Liquid Image HD 320 underwater mask, it does not look great. Next pic: Shampoo bottle, in the bathtub taken from an HD video with ambient tungsten light: https://softnuance.dc1.netfirms.com/shampoo.JPG At first sight, it is bad quality: -vertical bars -noisy -bad colors -bad contrast So I said to myself… that camera was build to perform in a blue environment in the ocean… not in a bathtub. In a few days I'll try it a pool… blue environment. Did any one had a comparable experience?

All the expeditions to Cod Hole and Osprey Reef are twice the price compare to the expeditions to the Outer Barrier Reef …. for the same duration (3 days). I guess the plane ride justify it. What more can I expect in Cod Hole / Osprey Reef… compare to Outer Barrier Reef (Norman and Saxon reefs). Better water clarity? Rare species? Less divers? Mermaids? : )

Thanx Karl, usually in mid February, are they able to see a hurricaine coming 3 days in advance?

Thanx Aussie. I am reading a lot on the different spots. My question is: How is the diving in reefs near Whitesundays?

At least, they took you back : )

Material : 1 aluminum heat sink (made for processors) 1 SSC 900 lumen LED (12W) 1 Polysester Resine Cast Remarks: 1) Aluminum might expend when heated. It should only be used underwater when permenantly cooled, otherwise, it might crack the resine and leak. 2) Polysester resine resiste a little less than 500 psi… so: 60 feet (PADI Open Water) X 0.45 (psi/feet) = approx 30 psi … so it should resist popular diving My question is: Will water find a way between the aluminum and resine cast … at 60 feet presure? Sould I leave a free space between the aluminum and the resine… and fill it with marine silicone? I even tought about putting the whole piece in resine… but I am not shure that water would cool the aluminum if there is 1 or 2 mm of resine over it.

1) According to your personal experience… is Cod Hole better than Cairns? I am under the impression that Cairns has more diversity… and of course more cods at Cod Hole. 2) According to the documentation there is a lot rain and storms in February and March in Queensland… does it alter the experience in the Coral Barrier? If you have suggestions about the Coral Barrier: destination, when to go, diving tour operator … let me know.

Looking at the price I guess that the aluminum arm is better. I had an Ikelite (dslr) aluminum arm that could barely hold a small strobe in full extension. I know that more expensive arms have a rubber seal, 2'' inch ball etc. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/6436...ex_Arm_and.html Can a Flex arm hold a normal strobe without too much difficulty or it's comparable to Ikelite arm strength?

Ikelite makes real good Polycarbon housing. The problem is the thermal isolation. The LED needs a heat sink that need to be in contact with air or water.

I have seen a lot of underwater glue types that claim to resist a 100 feet diving pressure. Did someone have a good experience with glue that would permanently seal an aluminum flashlight joint… it's a led flashlight, once it is seal; I don't need to un-seal it in the future. Flashlight head: aluminum-aluminum joint aluminum-glass joint

Thanks, I'll have to try it

The charger that i use gives the same 4.2V that the led circuit can tolerate, I'll still let the flashlight on "off" mode because i am not sure if the charger tension is perfectly linear like the batterie. So i can charge my batterie even when inside the flashlight, i just have to solder a waterproof connector that will go outside the housing. I dont think that the heat can be a problem under the ocean, but i'll have to try it. The solution for the lens light loss is a clear rubber coating... i am still looking for it, if i dont find it, i'll have to leave it uncoated.