Posts posted by XCY
WOW.... your shots are really phenominal. It really gives me hope...LOL, that I can get those kind of results from this Cam. Well done!!! I think I have to crown you the "NudiKing" Are you shooting in Manual strictly?? Specificaly in regards to focus...auto focus or manual? Your macro images are quite a bit sharper than mine, and I'm in auto. Gracias
I used to use A mode most of the time because of the LCD in M mode is too dark for me. If I need to use M mode, I have to turn my focus light brighter for me to see and for the DX1G to focus. Auto focus is ok, especially if you use a focus light but the response of the camera is not fast at tall. I use manual focus when I was not able to use focus light. For example, the mandarin fishes mating pictures, I had to preset the focus at about 8 cm, use a large f-stop for better depth of field and push the button when the fishes came together. I guess nudis are good models. They are colorful, don't move a lot and you can get really close.
Have fun with the Dx1G!
Coupld you post a pic of one of these here? It may be easier to make one that ordering one from Singapore, or dou you know if they are available inte europe?
The one is an old model and there are prone to flooding which was the experience by many Hong Kong divers.
Here is some new model. http://www.i-divesite.com/catalog.asp?catid=40693
I guess Dx1G is a good camera and here are my photos with it. http://www.flickr.com/photos/cywong/sets/72157607904453785/
I used to use A mode as I found the LCD in M mode is too dark for me and my eyes. I'm using Inon strobe and do have have the problem of miss fire mentioned so far.
The thread title sort of says it all. In July, I made the switch from P&S to DSLR by purchasing a used D200 with Aquatica housing. I used the camera over a several week trip to Lembeh and Komodo only to have the taxi driver take off with my camera bag as I returned home. The D200 was in a separate camera bag, so I've still got the camera w/ 18-200 and 10-17 lenses (my 60mm was taken). Homeowners insurance will cover and pay replacement cost for all items. I think I can get a Sea & Sea housing for the D200. Nexus may still have D200 housings available as well. Alternatively, I could ebay the D200 body and buy a D90 probably spending $300 or $400 and then wait for housings to come out. (I've got a year to purchase replacements.) From what I can see, the main advantage of the D90 would be improved high ISO performance. The main disadvantages would seem to be the loss of some controls and lesser build quality. But I'm sure I'm missing other important issues. Having just switched to DSLR, I just don't know what they are. Other than diving, my main use of the camera, once I buy a longer lense, would be shooting my son's surfing competitions. Would the high ISO performance of the D90 be a big factor there?
Why you don't look for an old or new Nexus D200 housing in which you may be able to house your future D300 or 700?
It would be interesting if someone could confirm this, but it seems like this for the scenario of a slave strobe that is triggered via fibre optics:
* The so called "TTL" function of YS110 (and maybe other flashes), means that the strobe will sense the duration of the cameras main flash, and thus turn on and off the strobe accordingly.
* A compact camera will use a pre-flash, that is used to determine the strength of the man flash and exposure that will be take directly afterwards.
* The YS110 supports this exposure measurement by firing a pre-flash in synch with the camera
Is this right? The result should theoretically be quite good, as nothing much should change between pre-flash and main flash. However, I don't see how the YS110 could know what is 100% time from specific compact camera and adjust accordingly. Properly made, you should enter minimum and maximum flash time into the YS110 so it could time accordingly. As it is designed they maust have made some kind of assumption on all cameras.
Most of the DC use a preflash to light the object of interest and the sensor of the DC then calculate the output for the subsequent flash. This is not true TTL (through the len) function. A camera with TTL doesn't necessarily need a preflash (e.g. most DSLR) and the sensor actually monitor the amount of light reaching the object of interest and quench the flash once the exposure is adequate (the output is not predetermined).
A digital strobe which act as a slave copies everything from the main flash of the DC including preflash. If the camera has TTL function. a strobe with optical TTL can copy exactly the output from the main flash.
I am fairly confident the dx-1g does use ttl metering. Set your Z40 to s-ttl, the camera to manual, to f-stop to 4.1, shutter to 1/80, iso to 100 and take a picture of your computer screen. The strobe should not have performed a full dump. Now place you hand over the lens, take another picture and the strobe will perform full dumb. Given this behavior it must have ttl.
The f-stop needs to be set 3.2 or large else the strobe cannot squelch fast enough and pictures are over exposed.
This doesn't necessary mean it has TTL. When you cover the len, the CCD sense nothing during the preflash and the flash will fire at full power. With a f-stop 4.1, shutter 1/80 iso 100 and taking a picture of your computer monitor, it is expected the flash won't fire at full power. You can try to take picture of your screen again with different f-stop and shutter speed and you see if the TTL really works or not.
I have no experience with this flash........however I was wondering if anyone has used the Inon D-2000 flash in combination with the Sea and Sea D1G............I used to use an Oly 5060 but after flooding the camera I have been unable to replace it and have thought about the D1G........the only prob. I have is that I have 2 Inon flashes and was told by Inon that I probably could adapt them for use on the D1G..........has anyone tried this..................Jim
I'm using Dx1G with Z240 and my friend has the 1G works with D-2000. So far, no problem. Remember, Dx 1G has no TTL function and please use auto or manual mode.
Thanks for all the good advice! I am heading to Belize May 10 and will post some photos when I return.
Does anybody know if it is OK to download firmware updates for the Ricoh 100GX to the Sea & Sea version?
My concern is that it may conflict with any changes made By Sea & Sea. (i.e. the Seas & Sea Mode)
Please don't do so or you will lose the sea & sea mode. B)
The DX-1G is essentially a Ricoh GX100. You may be able to find info on it in the Dpreview.com forums. I set mine up so that the Fn button was for manual focus. Remember that the back adj lever can be pressed in for quick access to menus like ISO, WB, etc. Very useful.
The camera cannot shoot TTL. Use the manual controls on the strobe instead. The 1G is not capable of adjusting strobe output hence this is "mirrored" through the optical link to the strobe. Manual strobe control is the only way to adjust flash output.
Get a focus light. Even an inexpensive one will help you tremendously. The LCD can be a bit dark at depth. Also, at night, you will need this to achieve focus. THe DX-IG housing has a hotshoe to attach such accessories.
The LCD is really dimmed in manual mode and you will have difficulties in seeing what you want. With a focus light ( mine is fisheye 20DX ), you will see the difference. BTW, does anyone have the experience with the WA and macro lens (seatool or the S&S)?
M mode on Sea and Sea 2g
in Photography Gear and Technique
This was also happened in DX1G. Use a focus light to make the LCD slightly brighter!