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About lojo

  • Rank
    Sea Nettle

Additional Info

  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon G9
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
  • Accessories
    Cheapest Close-up lenses you've ever seen
  1. I already had a small LED lamp so I took - half a plastic pipe - drilled two pair of holes in it. - Attached it with cablebinds to the flash - velcro bind between the pipe and the flash, to hold the light This way I can be almost certain where the strobe will be pointing at. The strobe has a warmer light than the light and it doesn't show up in the pictures, so I don't need to turn it off before shooting.
  2. I don't seem to understand your problem. Do you screw the lens outside the water? I doesn't make sense that bubbles are present between port and lens if you screw the UWL-100 underwater. Between UWL-100 and the dome shouldn't be any bubbles because it should be any water inside at all, just air. I know silicon grease makes water bubbles to remain adhered but never really check if air bubbles could be affected the same way. I've seen small air bubbles adhere to any part of the equipment but not really in any lens. I can only think of using a wet finger to remove it
  3. Moin, Moin I bougth a expensive close-up lens in a shop and other cheaper in ebay. Both seemed to hold well going on water. The cheaper ones are bigger but the material doesn't look like it is going to suffer soon (probably brass). I lost the expensive one but the cheaper one has been on water since last year. I've drilled some holes in the mount of my land closeup lenses. This way I don't have to care mucht about ensuring that water is between lenses while mounting. The most important thing will be maintenance. Wash the lenses as soon as possible after being in water, like you do with your housin. If you go for 10+ dioptries lenses, they usually have some treatment. I ignore what is that for, just hope it doesn't have anything to do with reducing aberrations After being in water and washing the lense, it goes away. Mind that before you dry them with a white towel.
  4. If you take a SDHC card, make sure it is at least class 4, writes RAW in 4~5 seconds. I haven't see any differences from class 4 to class 6 thought. I almost forgot, thre are adapters for extra lenses. Yuzo has got one, but the built-in flash will be of small use with 67mm shadowing it
  5. 1) If you use an external strobe, you should block the internal strobe (with tape on the housing or the diffuser) to hold the back-scatter away. 2) I would say manual, but I don't really know enough about external strobes. 3) It may be possible that the tray already give you enough negative bouyancy. Test in the bathtube, if you plan to snorkel without the strobe you should use the weights. If you strap the housing to your wrist it want go away, but if you sumerge some metter it can get odd having to hold the housing (it happend to me with my old A510 and wp-dc10) G9 is a nice camera but the wp-dc21 isn't the best choice if you want the dial wheel as badly as I do. I find using the buttons for manual focus to slow. The ikelite is big and heavier. Patima has a housing for the g9, with access to all the buttons, accepts external strobe, it weights only 1,7kg (ikelite 2,4kg; 6 lbrs) and it is smaller but it isn't transparent. It is expensiver too.
  6. I didn't see a difference between a foto with teleconverter attached and with or without the option in the menu. It looks more like an option for the picture information. I haven't checked that yet. What I haven't checked... it is if the zoom moves on its own to avoid the vignetting when the option in the menu is on... that could actually make sense. Off topic, the teleconverter is so massive, holy-smthg!
  7. A650 looks like a nice choice... if you put the RAW hack it gets than better closer to the g9... to shoot pictures from strange positions above the surface the display is very neat. But what made me decide for the G9 was the dial control. I couldn't have anymore a manual focus that works by pushing buttons "tap, tap, tap, tap" Of course, if you want to buy the G9 with the canon housing, better choose the A650; because someone in canon forgot to make a control on the housing for the dial control. I know about the "shortcut" to operate the same funcitons from the dial control, but it is again "tap, tap, tap, tap" with an extra annoyance; you have to keep pressed the shortcut button. What I don't know, it is if the A650 has the same nice post-processing options of the G9. If you can get hold of the manuals to compare you can best see what camera has all you need (or more) Comparing with the tool from canon. it shows this differences: - G9 can use external strobes (if you use another housing and not the canon one). Which helps saving battery, not to speak of better colour in your pics and less money in your pocket. - G9 lacks that flexible display which I don't miss underwater and above surface I am used to live without it (I don't even make much pictures while being dry). - G9 forces you to use canon batteries. I hope it is enough for two consecutive dives - A650 lacks "Continuous focusing"; nice feature if I may say so; it is battery consuming but helps keeping focus of a moving target. - A650 lacks focus bracketing; I haven't yet manage to find that usefull with subjects close to the camera (I love macro). - A650 can put the shutter speed down to 1/2000, the G9 gets 1/2500 (not sure if I ever will be able to enjoy that :-? - G9 has dioptry correction for the viewfinder (again, another surface feature) - G9 has more modes for while balancing - G9 display is just bigger, has more dots and brightness can be adjusted (it helps to don't miss the moving display of the a650). - G9 internal flash has more range than the A650, but in macro it makes a not so nice shadow of the objective over the subject. - G9 photo effects, has more and the custom mode is not limited. Nice to play with, practical... who knows? - G9 can be faster in continuos shooting (if the LiveView is off) - A650 is 20g lighter :-D - Last and most important: G9 is more cool
  8. Should it be burnt ? Anyway, isn't that dangeraous for the sensor?
  9. After introducing myself to TTL technology recently (my extra muscle after testing housing+lenses+flash over ground are proof), I will stick with the counsel of other members. Reduce ISO, Flash output that close should be enough to work even lower that ISO 100. With my DS51 I had to reduce the flash output to -3 to avoid burned pictures at that short distance. I forgot to check the pre-flash calculation of the camera but... not many creatures of the deep will remain still after a short lightining
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