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Everything posted by rbibb

  1. My port has a focus adjustment knob on it to allow you to focus manually. Works fine both with and without the TC. I purchased this and the extension rings from Ryan and Reef Photo. On my oder the port and rings are listed as: Subal FP-FC60 Focusport for the Micro Nikkor 60mm/2.8 Subal Extension Ring 20/3 Subal Extension Ring 50/3 This allows me to use the 100m macro with and without the TC
  2. I have the Subal housing for my 5D. As far as I'm concerned the housing is the best one available. Build quality is second to none and it handles like a dream underwater.
  3. Hi I'm finally going to take the plunge and buy a DSLR to take underwater. Does anyone know if I will be able to get eTTL flash metering working with a canon 5d, a Sea+Sea TTL converter and a pair of inon strobes? The housing is likely to be either the subal or the Sea and Sea (not sure which so if you have any comments feel free). I have done quite a bit of macro photography but find that I'm not very good at manually setting strobes. I have had much better results with TTL. Thanks for any help you can give Richard
  4. Thanks for all your answers this is just the sort of information I have been looking for. I think enough of you have made enough positive comments about the 5D for me to be confident that I'm making the right choice. Lens choice seems a little more tricky and I think from what has been said that I'm going to have to give up on the hope of using a zoom for my macro shots. Primes seem to be the favoured choice. Now all that is left to do is sewwt talk the wife into letting me buy the camera
  5. I'm looking at upgrading my camera to an EOS 5D in an Aquatica or Sea & Sea housing. I already own an Ike DS125 strobe and want to start using two strobes. My main problem is that all this gear is heavy and I'm worried about my baggage allowance. I already come out over the limit on most trips. I love my DS125 but it is very heavy, two of them could just break the poor donkey's back. What are your thoughts on me trading in the Ike against two new Inon Z220's (on that point is it worth getting Z240's over the Z220, I vaugely remember seeing a test once that said "no" but I cant find it) I have no problem with the rechargable AA issue (I'm used to that with my Oly 5050)
  6. Thanks everyone for yor responses. I think you may have persuaded me that I will not be making a fatal mistake by deciding on the sea and sea housing. What I could do with now is advice on lenses. James, Mike and Herb, you all talk in terms of prime lenses, why is this? Why would you not go for a zoom? Originally I had considered (primarily based on it's excellent reviews and the regard given to the L glass) the Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8 L USM Lens. I'm presuming that this lens would be too short for the sort of photography Iwould like to do. Are zooms not a sensible option? (excuse my idiot statements here). Finally I see talk of teleconverters being used all over the place. Now, when I was somewhat younger and more heavily in to SLR's (on land), teleconverters were frowned upon as they were almost always much lower quality than the high end lenses. Additionally they made auto focusing difficult due to the increase in minimum F stop. What insight can you give on this and where, if anywhere, would extension tubes fit? Thanks again for your help folks. It is increadibly valuable to me to get real opinions from people who aren't trying to sell me something (That isn;t a snipe at Ike either as I have a very high regard for his company)
  7. I have been diving with a Oly 5050 and and single Ike DS125 strobe in an Ike housing for a long time now (3 years+) but am beginning to find myself getting frustrated with image quality. It's a fine camera to learn with and I am extreemly pleased with that as a choice for a first UW camera. Now, however, I'm ready to go SLR. My problem is that, although I'm reasonably savvy with SLR cameras above water I find myself a little lost with lens choice etc for underwater. Whether it's a good choice or bad I'm almost certain that I'm going to go for the Canon 5D (or if it takes me long enough to pluck up the courage to ask my wife, its successor ). Looking at the housings the Sea and Sea housing appeals to me with the aquatica second and Ike third. Other things about my photography. I always shoot TTL flash and loosing that ability doesn't appeal to me (my brain doesn't like considering technical issues under water). I'm not really a wide angle sort of guy and as time goes on I spend more and more time shooting small stuff (badly I may add). Arrow crab, shrimp, nudi's and some larger things like clown fish, frog fish etc. The 5050 lets you do all of this and although the image quality isn't always bang on it's fair. What do I need to achieve a similar level of flexibility. Ideally, as I guess you all appreciate, I'd like to keep the equipment list short as possible - I already break most baggage allowances. Money isn't really an issue, longevity is (i.e. I'd like to buy something I'll look back on in the way I look back at the purchase of the 5050. So starting my list off I have Canon EOS 5D Sea & Sea Housing ? Canon L lens(es) Port What else?
  8. Shoot in RAW mode and then you don't have to worry about these things. All the settings you talk about are adjustable during post processing. You even get +-2 stops exposure compensation
  9. Hi Eric An excellent article. Just a quick question. In the quote above you talk about compositing the shot. Have you tried the shadows and highlights filter in photoshop? I have used it a couple of times and it seems to work quite well. I was wondering if you could adjust the RAW image to balance the highlights and low lights as well as you can and then try messing around with them inside photoshop using the highligh/lowlight adjustment. Richard
  10. Thanks for comments guys. We have wandered a little from my original question but I have learn't something very useful
  11. That's interesting as I always interpolate and then sharpen on the basis that if sharpening is degrading the image (which on the whole it is) then by sharpening first I'd expect the interpolation to magnify the degradation. All that said if I compare your pictures to mine then I have got a very long way to go
  12. Thanks for your replies. It all adds to my limited knowledge about the RAW plugin. In terms of why I asked the "recovering/generating" question its down to the fact that I was amazed how much correction you can apply using the RAW plugin. I recently went on a diving holiday where my external strobe stopped working. For that day all the photos I took were without flash and, as you would expect, they all turned out very blue. I was amazed when I seemed to be able to recover the colour. I have seen people use chanel blending in PS to "recover" colour before and wondered if the RAW plugin was performing a similar function when the sliders were at their extreme settings. As to why I set sharpening to zero. it's just part of my process really. I was always taught that you should leave sharpening to the very last stage of your digital process. If you sharpen too early on you degrade your image. If I remember rightly the Adobe Carmera RAW documentation even encouraged you to do this.
  13. I have had one for a while and it works well as an image store. The other features are nice (playing MP3's MPEG's etc)
  14. You can batch process with the RAW plugin by creating Photoshop actions although you will probably end up with second rate conversions if the photographs were taken in varying light. The article http://www.outbackphoto.com/artofraw/raw_04/essay.html gives a good overview of the RAW plugin. I'm not sure I understand your last question Richard
  15. I have been using the Adobe Camera RAW plugin (PS 7.0.1) for a while now but only recently have I realised how powerful it is. I seem to have worked out the best approach for correcting the colour and exposure but would like someone to verify my technique as sound. I have four steps to adjusting an image prior to importing into PS, three of which rely on the histogram. The steps are 1) Set sharpness to 0 2) Adjust the temperature slider so that the red, green and blue histograms overlap as much as possible without saturating on either end of the spectrum 3) As 2) but using the tint slider 4) As 2) but using the exposure slider This seems to produce pretty good results on almost all occasions, it also seems to give me maximum latitude within PS to adjust the colours/curves etc. without experiencing unremovable colour casts. There are two things I would like to know. 1) Is the technique above sound or is there a better way 2) How many of the sliders on the RAW user interface are actually recovering information from the data and how many are generating that information. For example, if I set the temperature slider very high to recover red in my image am I actually "recovering red" Thanks for your help
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