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About alcina

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  • Birthday 03/12/1970

Profile Information

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  • Location
    Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia

Additional Info

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 40D; Canon 7DII
  • Camera Housing
    Subal; Nauticam
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon 220 + 240

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  1. Thanks so much for your help on this. I knew I'd eventually want to get the 60 macro nauticam port but was trying to put it off as I'm not diving as much as I'd like...I did get the 100 nauticam port, but now that I'm using the 60 again...well, more shopping!
  2. It's tough to get the 09s to sit right so you can get it secured in the flip mount which has a tension screw, but no threads. And then I think it's in there nicely and I'm having no issues then floop, it falls out. Not always, but it clearly isn't the perfect tool. My port is the subal macro without a thread. When I get everything aligned, it works a treat. I don't know what the bayonet system is? I assume I'd need a bit for the port and then another bit for the lens? Do they make these for the Subal port? I'll have a google for that nauticam option, thanks. The AOI has also been suggested but I don't think it works with my Subal port. I was very much trying not to have to buy the threaded Nauticam port (my housing is nauticam, but I use the Subal 60 macro port)
  3. I have and love the Kraken KRL 09s but I'm using my subsee flip adaptor and it is far from ideal. It's a pain to get it secured and I've had it fall out multiple times in a dive. It doesn't sit as well against the port as it should so I get blur on the edges and sometimes don't get a sharp image even in the middle. I am using a subal macro port. Please help point me to a better option! Ideally I'd like a flip type arrangement rather than a threaded port as the quick flexibility makes this setup excellent for my needs, but am open to options. Pic to show the blur and just because it makes the post pretty :)
  4. I'd like some real information on doing this. I know that they can be forced to hatch by using lights and I know that people have taken hatching shots set up like this. This seems like not a great practice to me. Thoughts? And how about taking shots of them in the eggs but then flipping the coconut or shell or whatever back over to let them go on in peace & relative safety. Harmful? No biggie?
  5. As long as they fit and work in anything I buy new, it's good looking at the nauti dual flip... As long as they fit and work in anything I buy new, it's good looking at the nauti dual flip...
  6. OK, yeah, I have a single flip for the Subal already and have used it with the SubSee but was advised by several that it wouldn't work well with the SMC or Noodilab. That's the same thing I've been told about the Nauticam flip, too. Was looking for reassurance, I guess, that the SMC and Noodilab would be usable without too much hassle. looks like at least a couple of you think that's so
  7. I'm looking for a flip holder for dioptres as screwing one on and off underwater is a bit of a pain in the numpty. Here's what i have: Nauticam housing Nauticam 100mm macro port with threaded front Subal 60 macro port with no threads Nauticam SMC Noodilab dioptre Subsee +10 I'd like to be able to take two dioptres and ideally have one flipper for both ports. I may add a Nauticam port with threads for the 60 macro at some stage, but haven't decided yet. I've had people tell me that the flips don't work very well and it's better to screw/unscrew as needed, but then others have said they only use the flip holders. I really need some advice and guidance. Thanks.
  8. Ok, this is all great! I do use my strobes in M only. I've set the camera's flash to manual and 1/128th now and my AF assist beam says off. I'll set everything up later this morning and see if I'm good to go! Thank you all for the help so far
  9. ok, been playing around and can now get both strobes to fire & changer power settings, but they are both doing the flicker/preflash thing when I focus. my focus is on back button, not shutter release. Strobes fire properly when I click the shutter. Except something funky happens with the 220 on full power - the flash actually fires, but the image comes up dark. Turn it back one notch and it comes up with the correct amount of light. Very weird, I think. Not a deal breaker, but annoying and I can't figure out why it would do that. I can't seem to get the camera to not take a photo now, so hopefully that was just a non-recurring gremlin and all I need to do now is figure out how to turn off this preflash whatever it is. Doesn't seem to matter if the button is up or down on the 240 - it works the same in both positions. I have not installed the magnet on the 220 but now I've found it so can if it will help. I'm thinking not since I'm getting the same reaction from both strobes. How do I make that stop?
  10. thanks. no one around to help me test stuff, unfortunately. My strobes work perfectly with my existing Subal system and Canon 40D. Unfortunately the new cam doesn't fit in the old housing! Swapped out batteries to ones that were definitely charged correctly, so I know the batteries are working properly. Flash is set to factory default on the camera, but will have a look at that and to see if there is anything interfering with the pop up. Will be trying to fix this later today before I try to hit the water again this week. Really appreciate all the ideas to double check. Hoping that with the knowledge here and more fussing on this end, I can get it all resolved.
  11. I'm hoping you all can help me. I finally got into the water yesteday with the new gear above and tho I do love some things, some things left me frustrated and grumpy. 1 - my strobes wouldn't fire properly. During setup test, both strobes (one Inon 220 and one Inon 240) fired perfectly. I changed the batteries in one strobe because they were almost flat; didn't do anything else. Again tested things exactly the same way and now the strobe with the newly inserted fully charged batteries would not fire at all. Instead, it just did the flicker thing. Maybe like a preflash? Nothing I did would make it fire so I removed it from the system and went single strobe for the dive. During the dive, the strobe fired great at first but then started to play up by randomly doing the flicker thing. It also seemed to have problems with changing power. I did some tests and there wasn't much variation in light from lowest setting to second highest setting. Why didn't I test with the highest setting? I did, but it wouldn't fire at all when set there! As you can imagine, this made for an extremely frustrating maiden voyage. 2 - the camera wouldn't take a shot every time. It was in focus, but no matter how I pulled the trigger nothing would happen. Missed some shots because the dumb thing wouldn't go. My buddy heard me screaming in frustration at this point. Didn't happen consistently and didn't always happen on moving subjects - it also happened when I was shooting something stationary. So, not the most successful dive ever. I really want to love this new setup but I'm annoyed with it at the moment. I never had a lick of trouble with my Subal anyhoo, advice and instructions would be great. Thanks!
  12. yay Gudge!! I always forget that stupid little button @chris - I adore my Inons and have had them for years. I really haven't had any significant problems - this was user error and not being careful enough in looking at things I should know. Can't help you with your problems but maybe start a thread and someone else can.
  13. I seem to be having a problem with my Inon 240 that I connect via synch cord to my Subal C40 housing. It fires just fine but I have no manual control. No matter what setting I use, the amount of light that comes out is totally pathetic and the same. I've tried a couple of half-baked tests underwater and in the house on all the settings. TTL fries everything, no matter what settings I use on the camera or strobe (TBH I've never ever used TTL so don't know if I've done something totally wrong here to begin with). Slow TTL is better and kind of gets in the ballpark sometimes. Auto seems to fry everything just like TTL. Then I get to M and it doesn't matter if I have it set to 11 or 2.8, it's just not throwing any substantial light. I have test photos of the different settings from this strobe and from my trusty Inon 220 if they will help, but they aren't very interesting (a door and my OOF cat mostly). When I turn the 220 to M and full power it - as expected - explodes the light; when I turn the 240 to full power it's a pathetic little display - I was the same distance from my door and with the strobes at pretty much the same angle but on opposite sides of the housing for this test. I've tried changing the batteries just in case, but doesn't seem to be that. I haven't pulled my synch cords off & switched them over - could that be the problem? I need a new cord? Or is it more likely the strobe itself? Very frustrating trying to play with my new Zen dome and Tokina 10-17 today with only a single strobe doing what I needed it to do!
  14. I am looking at adding another video system to my collection but haven't been paying any attention for the past couple of years so am clueless where to begin. I just want it for kicking around but the playback must look good on a normal, large consumer tv and the recording must be smooth. I'm not really sure of an exact budget, ideally I'd like to get out of this for under $3K AUD but if I have to spend more, I will. This was suggested: http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/jvc_mg77pkg.html Any thoughts? I want it NOW so spending endless hours on ebay looking for a second hand system isn't going to work. I'm not against a pre-loved mini DV system or the like at all if there's one going. US based or Australia based preferred. Thanks, Guys!
  15. Join us on this fantastic dive trip to two awesome remote areas! I have only a few spaces left on this amazing trip and we are getting close to travel time! This is going to be an incredible trip with some fantastic people and excellent diving opportunities that most people will never get to do. We will spend a week of diving in Cocos Keeling - off the North West corner of Western Australia - followed by another week of diving all over the Ningaloo Reef and surrounds out of Exmouth in North West Western Austraila. We are setting the pace and the dive sites for all dives on this trip - so maximum bottom times, maximum critters and maximum photo opportunities. It is rare that you can dive your own profiles in this area and even rarer to have so much control over the sites visited. We have designed this adventure for those divers - photographers and non-photographers - whose primary goals are the most possible time underwater at the dive sites that suit them personally! There are two options for this trip - 2 weeks for both Cocos and Ningaloo or 1 week for Ningaloo Reef only. The Cocos portion is limited to 10 dives only; the Ningaloo portion to 16 (the boat in Exmouth can carry 40 passengers so we will all be very comfortable and have plenty of space on board!) You can get a better idea of the details here -> www.exmouthdive.com & click on the October trip. Please note that you need to email with any questions (kristin@exmouthdiving.com.au) as this is an exclusive group and I want to answer individual questions personally. We are so excited about this trip, I can't even tell you. Two of the divers on this trip actually LIVE in Exmouth and have their own boat and they know what an opportunity this is so joined up as soon as they found out about it! Hope you can join us!
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