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About lars

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  • Birthday 01/20/1978

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Berlin | Germany

Additional Info

  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 10D
  • Camera Housing
    Jonah C10D
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    subtronic alpha pro
  1. Dear fellow divers, the digideep.com staff is about to make a Bahamas Trip with the Abernethy's. The trip is a 7-day, 6-night trip with 5 full days of diving. Boarding: Tuesday, October 19, 2004 7:00pm – departure time 8pm Returning: Monday, October 25, 2004 9:00am Boat: M/V Shear Water http://www.scuba-adventures.com/bahamas_li...iveaboard.shtml Itinerary: West End/Little Bahama Bank Number of Passengers: 12 maximum (6 still available) Price: 1,349 USD Included in charter: Customs and Immigration fees. Three meals per day plus snacks and refreshments, accommodations on board and tanks, weights and weight belt for diving. 3-5 dives per day including snorkeling (dolphins, dolphins, dolphins!) and fishing. For more information or booking please email at trips@digideep.com. /lars
  2. We have slightly modified the contest rules. 1. Not only Nemo is missing now, Bruce and Dori got missed, too. Each of them now hide behind one of the products listed on our site. You have to find them all. 2. We have changed the starting time to Sunday 18 CET to make it a real easter egg. We think this time is fairer to all our visitors around the world. happy easter egging /lars
  3. We just received the message that the start-up company Cyberware will introduce a LCD Mask dedicated to underwater video- and photographers in July. The mask features an integrated LCD located between two pieces of pressure proof, hot tempered glass together with a small Bluetooth interface and an accessible battery compartment. If your housing offers enough space to host the Bluetooth video plug this device will make it possible to have a real-time, wireless HUD (Head Up Display) through your camera without having to look at viewfinder or the camera's LCD. The complete info can be found on http://www.digideep.com/ /lars
  4. hello, after some research I think I found the problem and fixed it. As I can't browse our site with all different browsers out there I would be very glad if anybody who had problems with the digideep potw contest could have a short look at it and could give some feedback. ciao Lars
  5. hello guys, after some days without internet access I finally read this thread. This problem occurs very occasional. I experienced it on our site and on different others not related sites, too. So far I don't have any clue what's the reason for it. It would be very helpful if anybody who experience this problem can send me a report to my email address [lars at digideep dot com] including time, browser, browser version, OS version and type of connection. I will try to fix the problem as soon as possible. thanks in advance. /lars
  6. I meant a comparison between Adobe Camera Raw and Capture One. :oops: /lars
  7. I'm new to Adobe Camera Raw plugin with Photoshop. I used CaptureOne so far, but processed the images with Photoshop afterwards. I like the idea to have just one program to process the images. As you seem to have loads of experience with the Cameras Raw Plugin I have one question I haven't solved yet. Is it possible to batch develop images with Photoshop Camera Raw plugin? Does anybody have a link to a performance [speed and output quality] comperison between Photoshop and Adobe Camera Raw? /lars
  8. I totally agree, that the hue/saturation tool isn't the only think to modify the colors of an image. I just wanted to show that it is possible to adjust the background water without touching other colors in the forground. You can even use this tool to remove all other colors except the one you want in the picture. This result is a b/w picture with some colored spots. /lars
  9. Hello James, your article about color correcting green water gives a good introduction, but I would like to add something. The actuall work to remove the greenish water is does the hue/saturation tool. If you select the cyan channel and add +20 you get almost the same blue in the background but preserve the colors and the saturation in the foreground. The attached image is your first image manipulated with the settings mentioned above. /ciao Lars
  10. Ok, here is a little summary of what I did: 1. create a new layer. 2. select a circle area with the cirlce marquee tool in the size of the iris 3. fill it with the color you want to have for the iris. 4. apply gaussian blur filter to smoth the edges of the circle. this is to make it look more natural later on. 5. now the magic thing. B) there is a drop down field in the layer window, which has different blending options, like darken, vivid, multiply, etc... I used the vivid blending, but you may try some of the others and take the one that fits best to your idea. 6. now I created an empty layer mask to the circle layer to remove the upper part of the circle, which overlayed the eyebrow. I took the brush tool with a big diameter [300 or more] to have soft edges and just painted in the layer mask, where I wanted the circle to disapear. 7. I color corrected the skin a bit. gave it more saturation to have a better contrast to the iris. thats it basicly. The most important step is the blending option, you have in the layer window. this allows you to add a color from one layer to the other layers below with different methods. I used Photoshop 7 and not Photoshop Elements. I do not know, if all functions are available in PS Elements. /lars
  11. here is my intepretation as a desktop image a bit more green if somebody needs it in bigger size, just email me ..
  12. to me it seems that the dome port is too big for your lens, means the distance from the lens to the dome glas is too large. this raises the reflection inside the dome, which you can see at the top and the bottom of the picture. Eventually this has caused this "squared" flare effect as well. I'm not to sure about this. but I dont think that this has something to do with the strobe placement. How far was your body? /lars
  13. do you really need a Gig of raw file to have some nice shoots? After I saw your images, I guess no . I really like the second photograph, because of its composition. The yellow thing (what is it actually?) and the snail (what type is it?) are framed perfectly. You created a good contrast with the yellow color and the red snail on the black background. And you even got some sunlight on the top through the plants. /lars
  14. Hi Peter, I do not know any links where this is explained , but it's not that hard . The only thing you need is some webspace where you can put your image. Then you can use the button and enter the url of the picture and the image will be included in the text. In my case I put my images on my webspace at the university server and then linked to it with the img button. I didn't tried the upload function for attachments so far. I guess then you only get a download link in your text instead that the picture is displayed. /lars
  15. hi pakclu, lens flares are created by directly shooting into a light source. As long as the flash unit isn't in front of the lens it isn't the source for any flare effect B) There are two different types of flares. The first which causes the rings or circles and the other which produces the streaks around the light source. As far as I could figure out the lens flare depends on the combination of the following things: 1. the angle of the light source to the camera 2. the number of optical elements in the lens 3. the number of aperture blades 4. the material of the optical elements of the lens 5. the cleaness of the lens (6. the aperture) 1. The cause of the lens flare is that some parts of the light are reflected at the edge of the optical elements of the lens instead of going through it. These reflections create new light sources. Every element between the light source and the film or ccd can cause reflections and can so create new light sources which than result in flares. 2. With the number of the lens elements the number of flare rings or circles within the picture will grow as well. This means a zoom lens will create much more flare rings then a normal lens. 3. The streaks around the lights source are depending on the number of aperture blades used in the lens. As the area where two blades are more reflective then others this will create additional light sources forming the strikes. As you can see on my last image the sigma lens uses 8 aperture blades resulting in 8 strikes. You can only see the lower one, but can easily imagine, that the lower one can be mirrored. The upper one can hardly be seen because the sky is too bright. 4. The material of the elements is important as well. Different glasses causes different reflections. This is the reasons why the lenses are different in price i guess . Zeiss for examples produced a glass with a coating which almost reduced all reflections on the lens parts. This where then used from the nasa to take pictures from the sun. 5. If you have dirt on the lens this produces reflections as well which then can cause some flare. So my conclusion is if you want to prevent the flare dont shoot into a light source. If you still want to capture the light source try to shoot with a big aperture number e.g. 20. this reduce the light going the the lense and there reduce the number of reflections. But i can't prove this so far. If anybody has any ideas about this, I would like to hear it. After reading some about the flare effect I still wonder how this bubble flare could be created on my first image. Normally the flare are circles and not these. I do not know how to describe this correctly but look at the left bottom of the image. ciao Lars
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