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Everything posted by Seewolf

  1. The only differences between the old and new extension rings are a locking mechanism that prevents that the port falls off when not under pressure (I use a vacuum system, so this cannot happen anyway) and the numbers start with 18 (old) and 48 (new). The dimensions are exactly the same, no difference between old and new style, parts can be interchanged. For the Nikon 8-15 without TC I use the 48463 (21.5 mm) and not the 18456 (16.5 mm equivalent to 48456) which I also have. 16.5 mm is a little bit short, I told Aquatica some time ago. I also have the 18453 (28.5 mm) which is clearly to long. The Kenko 1.4 TC is 19.3 mm flange to flange, no difference between the old and new version (I have both). However, only the new version works with the Nikon 8-15, both work with the Tokina (which I also used). So, the 18462 (or 48462) with 39.5 mm fits exactly. For the Tokina you need shaorter extensions, the Nikon 8-15 is longer.
  2. Its the Aquatica 18462 (39.5 mm) which fits very well, and the zoom gear custom made by Aquatica. They print it, its much lighter and works better than the old aluminum zoom gears.
  3. Hi Wolfgang, the picture is not cropped, I just verified in Lightroom. Here are some test shots in the pool. All with the D500, Aquatica housing, Aquatica 4'' mini dome, Nikon 8-15 fisheye + Kenko (new version) 1.4 TC, ISO=200, 1/160sec: 11mm, f=6.3; 11mm, f=10; 21mm, f=6.3, 21mm, f=6.3 At f=6.3 you see problems in the corners at 11mm and better at 21mm. At f=11 for me acceptable, especially at 21mm already what I call good. Overall, my impression is that this combo performs pretty well. For most trips I don't care to take the 8'' dome, although the corners are clearly better. But in blue water you don't see it anyway. My impression is that the 8+15 + TC performs better than the Tokina 10-17 without TC. Cheers, Wolfram
  4. Sorry, mixed it up. The last picture was with the Tokina. This one is with the Nikon 8-15 + TC, f =9, 1/250 sec, 18 mm.
  5. Tim, here is one with the 8-15 + TC and 4'' dome: f=11 and 1/250 sec. The center is quite sharp, the corners are OK to me. The 8'' is of course better in the corners.
  6. I use the D500 in an Aquatica housing underwater and a Z7 on land. As much as I like the Z7, the IQ is stellar, I wouldn't like to use it underwater. Although in DX mode the IQ of the Z7 is indistinguishable from that of the D500, for me, the D500 is the nearly perfect UW camera. For action (Rhode Island Blue sharks, Guadalupe Great Whits etc.) I use the Nikon 8-15 with the new Kenko 1.4 TC and dome ports from 4 to 8''. With two Z330 strobes I set it to 4 frames/sec and the results are great, almost all pictures in focus. It never slows down, no matter how long I let it run. The Z7 is much slower with strobes. I tried all kinds of settings, but it is never getting close to the performance of the D500. I guess we will have to wait one or two Z generations to really get the same performance.
  7. Just checked with my Z7 (firmware 3.0). The Nikon 8-15 + FTZ works as expected, but not with the (new) Kenko 1.4 Pro 300 DGX. I get an error message. On the other hand, this combination (8-15 + 1.4 TC) works perfectly on my D500. All data are correctly send to metadata, auto focus is fast and snappy and the IQ excellent (I compared with the Tokina 10-17). And while the Tokina is slightly vignetting at 10 mm (that's probably the reason why the Nikon DX fisheye is 10.5 mm), I can zoom in and out with the 8-15 + TC (which is then 11 - 21) without any problem. The IQ is better, no vignetting, and more reach at the long end compared to the Tokina. With the Z7 I would loose most of these advantages, one reason why I will stick with the D500 underwater. Don't get me wrong, the IQ of the Z7 with S lenses is out of this world, I really like it. Wolfram
  8. Thank you very much for the fast reply, this is a great community! I think Chowe is right, it looks like Emdocephalus annulatus or the related Emydocephalus ijimae. The latter is endemic in south Japan, China, and Taiwan, so that looks pretty good. I found this snake during shore dives about 100 m from the coast in 10 - 15 m depths. Best, Wolfram
  9. Diving Green Island, Taiwan, I found this snake. It looks very much like a many-banded krait (Bungarus multicinctus) but since it was swimming under water and hiding under a coral rock I am not sure. Could it be a banded sea snake? The pictures I have seen look different. Any help appreciated. Wolfram
  10. For the pictures at Guadalupe Island I used an 8'' Ikelite dome with a custom-made adapter for Aquatica housings. Any 8'' dome will work as well, I just have this dome from an old housing. I also use the Aquatica 4'' mini dome, and I am very happy with it. This is excellent for CFWA, you can basically focus on the dome, just stop down a little bit more. I recently bought the Aquatica 6'' dome but didn't yet test it with this lens. I also have the Tokina 10-17 but don't use it any more. Wolfram
  11. I am selling my trusted Aquatica AD7000 Underwater housing for the Nikon D7000 camera, the AF Macro Port, and additional parts. Pictures taken with this underwater housing and more details can be found here: www.reefcolors.com. 1. The housing is in very good condition with some smaller scratches (only optically) in particular at the bottom and the back side, see pictures. The housing is very solid and sturdy, there was never any leak problem. It is equipped with dual Nikonos bulkheads and the Aquatica switchboard to electrically connect two external strobes. In addition, the Aquatica 18935 fiber optic bulkhead is included in the package which can replace one of the Nikonos bulkheads and allows to attach two strobes via two fiber optic cables. This is the configuration I used most of the time: one Nikonos and one optical bulkhead. With a Nikonos double sync cord two strobes can be simultaneously attached to the AD7000 either electrically or via fiber optics without changing anything at the housing. 2. The housing is equipped with a Leak Sentinel Version 4 vacuum leak detector which replaces the hydrophone (the hydrophone is mostly useless, and the newer Aquatica housings don’t have it anymore). With this configuration, none of the bulkheads had to be sacrificed. In addition, the moisture sensor of the housing was replaced by the Aquatica Surveyor Sensor for AD7000 which is sensitive to both moisture and pressure loss (the original Aquatica moisture sensor is included as spare part). This gives two independent pressure sensors. 3. Two Aquatica flat plates with 1" balls are attached to the grips to mount standard 1" ball strobe arms. 4. The Aquatica Autofocus Macro port shows a small scratch at the glass window which doesn’t affect the optical quality. Replacement windows are available from Aquatica, but I didn’t see any necessity to replace it. Here is the list of parts included in the package: Aquatica 20068 AD7000 Underwater housing Aquatica 19229-AD7000 Surveyor Sensor for AD7000 Aquatica 18428 AF Macro Port Aquatica 17553 (2 x) Flat Plate with 1" Ball Aquatica 18935 Fiber Optic Bulkhead Leak Sentinel V4 Vivid housings vacuum leak detector and pump Howshot RM67-126P Mount Base 126 for Aquatica AF Macro Port Package price: 700 € + shipping (DHL worldwide). The housing is also offered on ebay, staring price 549 €.
  12. Hi Marko, I am using the D500 with the 8-15 mm fisheye and the new HD PRO DGX in an Aquatica housing. It works perfectly, while the old version of the teleconverter didn't work at all (maybe it was broken). It transforms the 8-15 mm to a 11-21 mm, no vignetting at any zoom setting. Aquatica custom made a zoom ring for this combination for me with no extra costs. The sharpness is great, see here pictures, all taken with this combination: https://www.flickr.com/photos/reefcolors/albums/72157712490326637/with/49321592361/. Best, Wolfram
  13. Its made by HeinrichWeikamp. They don't sell it directly any more so you have to look for a dealer like mike-dive.de.
  14. Hallo Rui, sorry for the confusion. I am talking about the camera, not the HW board. The D7000 shows a blinking flash icon if the camera suggests to use a flash (far right hand side in the viewer). The D80 is similar, but since I sold my D80s I can't check. If a flash (internal or external) is switched on, the flash icon stops blinking. If it stops blinking I get TTL, as long it is blinking the flash is triggered but no TTL. Best regards, Wolfram
  15. HW converter works fine with the D7000 in the Aquatica housing. You only have to wire it correctly. But I will change to optical anyway, just waiting for the replacement optical bulkheads. Best regards, Wolfram
  16. Hallo Rui, I bought mine about 5 years ago directly from HW. I am using two type 2 Z-240s, the type shouldn't matter. Do you use a Y-cable? Another test: if your flashes are off or the board is not connected you should see in the viewer the green flash symbol flashing. After switching on one or both of the flashes the flash symbol is on continuously. This tells you that the camera recognizes a TTL flash. If not, something is broken. Best regards, Wolfram
  17. Hi Rui, I am using the OEM converter Mk. 1 with the D7000 and before used it with the D80. It works just fine with both cameras and two Z 240s using a Y-cable. Check if your cables are correctly connected. You need ground, trigger and quench between the camera and the board (pin 5 = ground, 1 = trigger, 4 = quench) and the board and the strobe (G, T, Q). Also check that the little potentiometer on the board is not in M = manual position! The board should be OK if the little green LED is flashing from time to time. I once fried one board with one drop of water. HM replaced it free of charge, which I think is a great service. Best regards, Wolfram www.reefcolors.com
  18. sorry, somehow I had problems to upload the octocoral. Here it is. Wolfram
  19. Hi, some species from my last dive trip to Maria La Gorda, Cuba, I could not identify: 1. a white sponge, found in caverns; 2. a red hermit crab; 3. a white octocoral, could also be somethig else. Any help would be great! Wolfram www.reefcolors.de
  20. Thank you very much! Corallimorph and some kind of coral was my guess, but I was not aware about this color variation. Now I read in Humann's book that the Great Star Coral indeed sometimes fluoresces red or orange. I am amazed how fast this forum helps, great!
  21. I found these two intense orange colored species in Cuba (Bay of Pigs) in March 2009. The first one could be a coral, but the color does not fit anything I found in books. The color looks almost fluorescent orange: http://www.reefcolors.de/Galleries/2009_Pl...4_34_large.html The second one is something completely different, only the color is similar. Looks somehow like a corallimorph, but they are green or blue, this one is orange. Any help?
  22. I spent some time organizing my pictures and trying to identify as many species as possible (at the moment close to 300 different species in more than 1000 pictures). You can search by common name, scientific name, and scientific taxa with thumbnails (at the moment fishes only). Here is the link: http://www.reefcolors.de/. Of course, there are errors, although I tried to check all names with WoRMS (the World Register of Marine Species). Have a look and let me know your opinion. I am always happy for suggestions to improve the database.
  23. I found a similar species on a sponge in Maria La Gorda, Cuba. Probably it is a Strawberry Tunicate (Eudistoma sp.). Here is the link to my website with several pictures: http://www.reefcolors.de/Galleries/2009_Ma...4_26_large.html.
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