lrossel

Try Ikelite housing and you will not be dissapointed.

Extract from Ikelite DS161 User Manual: Do not fire the strobe more than 15 times in rapid succession. If this does happen, allow the DS161 to cool off for at least 10 minutes before resuming photography. Guys, let me congrat Sea&Sea for keep this useful tip.

This will work fine. I use regular audio fiber optic cables. http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-A102-02M-Digital-connectors/dp/B0002WPREU

I believe that Underwater Photographers aren't just photo takers in underwater enviroment. Instead, we are explorers, trying to show others in the best way possible what we discover in our dives. Keeping that in mind, all the technology helping this goal is welcome, more if it makes easiest the process to catch a better and more realistic image. We can't just forget to try to get the best possible image at the moment of the shot, it is part of the adventure and exploring. But, any technology helping to do that, have to be embraced.

You can find a interesting discussion at: Scuba Board Post

René, do you have any pictures to show us? As I can see, you are too far of the subject for macro shots. Try to be as close as you can of the subject, and set a narrow aperture, like F8.

Check your Av or Tv Settings in M mode. If your last Av is too narrow, or your Tv is too short, then, your LCD display will show a dark frame when you change from Av to M.

According to Sea&Sea, the YS-110alpha will work in TTL through the fiber optic cable (DS-TTL). Look at this chart from Sea&Sea: Compatibility Chart

The Sea&Sea YS110alpha support DS-TTL (digital slave TTL), then, with a fiber optic and the Canon Housing, you get TTL.

Really great shots!!!! Congratulations.

NeptunesTrident, do you have any shots taken with your Ike+DS51+G10 setup to show us?

In every forum I read, they recomend TTL for macro shots, and manual control for Wide Angle. The reason is that TTL is based in "reading" the light of the subjetct, and when the subject is too wide, the camera "can make mistakes". You can find a lot of information an tuturials on the web to learn. But the best way to learn is dive and try... again and again. I still not using the DS51 strobe, according to the manual, the DS51 have a guide number lower than my YS-90, that means less power to put light farther. But, you have to keep in mind that to shot so far will get you more backscatter. As I know, Ikelite makes goods products. Try to look for a strobe with TTL, optical slave mode, and with an option to set the power manually. This features will give you almost all the ways to take good shots.

Hi rwarwood, You can start with this comparison table to make a good choice: Underwater Strobes Comparison @ce4jesus, read this, maybe you will fin the the solution: Use of the Wheel in WP-DC28 Regards,

Hi rwarwood, It's very simple to setup a external strobe trough a fiber optic cable. But you will have just an Slave strobe, not TTL trough an optic cable. If you plan to use the WP-DC28 housing, you can get full TTL capabilities using the Heinrichs adapter: Heinrichs TTL Adapter for digicams I just bought this adapter for my new G10, and it was confirmed by Mathias Heinrichs that his adapter works with the G10. I still doesn't received it, but I have very good recomendations for it. In my case, I'll use it with my old Sea&Sea YS-90 TTL Auto, I had to bought a sync cable too. You will find all the information and strobes compatibilities in the link above. In the USA you can buy this adapter and cables from Reefphoto. Regarding the Ikelite housing, you are right, this housing gives real TTL capabilities with Ikelite Strobes only, but if you want, you can use the Heinrich adapter to get TTL with other strobes. For example, I'm buying a the Ikelite housing for my new G10, and a Ikelite DS51 strobe, conected in TTL to the housing, and I'll use the Heinrichs adapter to fire the Sea&Sea YS90 in TTL mode too. how?... I'll trigger the YS-90 with the DS 51. If you don't need TTL at this time, just buy any strobe supporting Optical slave, and buy a cheap fiber optic audio cable, mount it with one end aimed to the internar flash of the G10 and the other end to the slave sensor of the strobe... this is a U$10 solution (it was mine for about two years)... Hope this helps.

According to the CHDK wiki, that camera is not supported yet.