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paninaro

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About paninaro

  • Rank
    Lionfish

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  • Website URL
    http://cwilso.com/

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Seattle, WA USA

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 5D mkIV
  • Camera Housing
    Ikelite
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Ikelite DS-125/161
  • Accessories
    Lots.
  1. Anyone have any experience with Ikelite's compact 8" dome vs the regular 8" dome? I'm wondering if it works better for close focus, or avoids the need for a diopter in more situations.
  2. I have had two camera floods. In both cases, as acroporas suggested, I just took the camera to a local camera and had them write a repair invoice on letterhead for me, and that sufficed. Ordered my replacement camera while I was there once.
  3. Thanks, Gudge, for the Sigma lens chart pointer. I hadn't found that. So the Sigma DOES extend an inch and a half when focused in. (It would probably fit in the 5502.41 - 4.1" - but only with no filters.) And thanks to both of you for the recommendations. I'd thought of the Canon 60mm before, and don't mind the price difference; my main concerns with it were that it's EF-S (I'll eventually upgrade to a full-frame, though my U/W rig will likely remain EF-S for the time being, and I always have the 100mm) and that it's 10mm longer. My main problem with the 100mm is that if it's bigger than a softball, I have to be 10+ feet away to take a picture; I'm thoroughly dedicated to macro for the dive. Hmm, time to play with the difference between 50 and 60mm some more and see if it's really that big a deal...
  4. I’m just about to purchase a Sigma 50mm f2.8 macro lens for my Canon 20D in an Ikelite housing, and I wanted to be sure I’m getting the proper flat port for it. Ikelite's Canon port chart says that the appropriate flat port for this lens is the 5505; that seems like it’s likely a typo, since the length of this lens is given as 2.6†on Sigma’s site, and the 5505 is for lenses under 4.5†long. It seems like the 5502 would be a better fit – Lenses less than 3.5†long. Am I missing something? Does the lens really extend nearly two inches when focused in? Does anyone have experience with this lens in an Ikelite port? (I've put in a question to Ikelite, of course, but I wanted to get this ordered as soon as possible, as I'm heading to Hawaii in a couple of weeks.) And, of course, shout out if you've had bad experiences with this lens. I want a shorter macro lens for my rig (the Canon 100mm I have is fantastic, but definitely a specialty lens), and the Sigma seems to garner good reviews.
  5. I'm surprised no one has answered this thread yet. I have the Canon 10-22 on a Canon 20D in an Ikelite housing, with the 8" acrylic dome. It's an awesome lens, but takes some adjustment in technique that I don't quite have yet. I don't get a chance to dive it much up here in Puget Sound, as wide angle is kinda silly when visibility is 5-10 feet; but I've dove it in the tropics, like these shots I took on the Spiegel Grove off Key Largo earlier this month: http://www.flickr.com/photos/cwilso/tags/spiegelgrove/.
  6. Note that if you've only tried the DS-125 in fresh water, it will seem lighter than that in salt water (because it's displacing the salt as well).
  7. Yupyup. Helps to know what you want to take pictures of; for example, here in Puget Sound, where the visibility is frequently under 20ft, I don't do much wide-angle. The Canon 100mm macro is a FANTASTIC lens - but it is not for the meek. It can be hard to aim a lens that long underwater. I'd recommend getting a general-purpose zoom, like the kit lens (18-55, or the 17-85), and the appropriate port; that should keep you going long enough to figure out what you want to do.
  8. I've had my Viper for around 3 years. My only real complaint with the reg itself is, as mentioned, that it does tend to breathe a little wet - but I do like its simplicity, and I've never had it fail on me in any other way... ...except the last time I had it serviced, they mis-adjusted it, and made it first too hard to breathe, and then too easy (and it would freeflow when pointing up, just as you say). I finally took the cover off and tweaked it just so myself, and it was back to normal. It really does sound, James, like it just needs to have the lever nut tightened up a bit. Again, not saying it's the best reg around, but it is a pretty solid performer. I think it's pretty easy to get the adjustment out of whack during servicing, though.
  9. I dive with an Oceanic Data Trans Plus (older model wireless wristmount) and a Dacor Viper reg. The wireless transmitter does lose connection on me occasionally, and yes holding it closer to the transmitter usually helps. It automatically tries to regain connection, and you can also hit a button to try to force it to reconnect. The only time I've had to abort a dive due to a lost connection was when the transmitter battery started dying (it's supposed to warn you, but it failed to in my case). I will shortly add a backup SPG/depth gauge on a shorter hose, and leave it clipped in tight. As for the side-exhaust, I think my Viper DOES have a lower profile than most standard dual-exhaust systems. It is also convenient that with a slight tilt of the head, all the bubbles no longer obscure my vision. Matter of preference, I expect.
  10. Short version: regular maintenance of your housing should include making sure all nuts on the housing are tightened down. Long version: My buddy and I had been on a nearly hour-long dive here in chilly Puget Sound, max depth of around 80ft, when in 9ft of water I saw water beginning to leak into my housing. By the time we hit the surface less than a minute later, I had an inch of water in the bottom of the housing, sloshing around. Salt water entered both the camera and the lens, toasting both of them. (Just had to be one of the dives I took the 100mm macro lens on, too.) In postmortem, I discovered one of the nuts on the bolts that fasten the housing to the tray (that connects the handles) was loose; I believe this was the source of the leak. As I held the camera (and flipped it sideways for some portrait shots), I'd put enough additional stress on the bolt that the nut had eventually loosened, and the o-ring had leaked. I'd erroneously originally thought that the screws holding the handle tray to the housing went into a bulkhead in the housing, not that it went all the way through the housing wall and had a connecting nut on the other side, and an o-ring in between. Tightening the screw from the outside does not tighten the o-ring connection; you have to make sure the nuts on the inside of the housing are firmly tightened. I tightened the loose nut down, and took the housing down to 80ft to make sure it did not leak (sans my camera-shaped-object, of course).
  11. 20-30 dives? It's a moot point for me now, as I had a user-error flood last weekend. Of course, I have a very understanding spouse, so now I have a 20D and an Ikelite 20D housing on order!
  12. I had the same problem with my 300D and 6870 housing at first - my camera loosened up over time, and it stopped being a problem.
  13. azdesertdiver, you don't mention what kind of photography you want to do. By all accounts, the 10-22 is a great lens, but it is wide-angle only - its range on a DRebel is 35mm equiv 16-35mm. You may not want to purchase an $800 wide-angle lens unless you're sure it's what you want. I've been diving my dRebel primarily with the kit lens (18-55mm) - it's not an incredible quality lens, but for the little extra it costs, it's worth it. It goes to 1:3 macro ratio, so while not a macro lens it can do pretty good closeups. I've gotten some great UW pictures with it. I'm planning to upgrade to the 17-85mm, as it is a better quality lens, and will be a much better walkaround lens topside. If you're new to UW photography, I would recommend going with one of these two lenses, and not just the 10-22, which will force you to do wide-angle only. Either of these lenses will let you do fairly wide-angle to fairly close-up work, which will let you figure out what you really want to do. My only complaint with the 18-55mm underwater is sharpness, and I'm very picky about that. My other housed lens is the 100mm f2.8 macro - which is an AWESOME lens. Highly recommended for sharpness - however, it takes some getting used to shooting a 35mm equiv 160mm macro lens underwater. You will not get many full-fish pix with this lens, but it takes incredible macros. The 50mm f.18 is also one of my favorite lenses for topside. Underwater, I don't know this has a whole lot to specifically recommend it, but it is a great indoor available-light lens. Very very sharp, very small and light, and very fast. I would recommend anyone who has a Canon camera, doesn't own the 50mm f/1.4, and ever takes pictures of people to purchase this lens. I started out with the 75-300mm non-IS, non-USM. The glass is mostly the same for all three of these lenses, and I gotta say, this is not a great lens. Mine has bad chromatic aberration, not very contrasty, and pretty soft on sharpness. I would save your money and go for the 100-300 or another lens.
  14. I use a Microdrive in my Digital Rebel in an Ikelite housing, and have had no problems with it. If you're happy with the speed on land, it shouldn't be a problem.
  15. 1. Most newer graphics cards have multiple outputs. Check that first. 2. If you try to go the two-card route, note that you will need to go purchase a PCI bus graphics card, rather than the AGP card your system probably uses now. There can only be one AGP card in any given system.
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