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mikedive

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Everything posted by mikedive

  1. HI , I have done several adaptions of the INON 45° and 180° viewfinder I adapted it to Sealux, Sea&Sea, UK-Germany, fantasea, 10bar and several Ikelite housings as well. Not mounted it on to the original viewfinder but integrated it as near by as posible to the camera viewfinder. I always have very nice feedbacks. I mount it in different ways, in some cases it is also posible to demount it without open the housing to get a smaler transport size of the housing. A sealed blind cap closes the housing an other one closes the viewfinder. At my own UK-Germany D300 housing I am able to change between the 45° and the 180° viewfinder depending on shooting situation but bevor the dive.... I think the Dyron solution is a joke it is only a expensive 45° mirror. The magnification is killed through the water so you only angle your viewfinder 45° and with Ikelite housings you get a better handling with your regulater depending on the larger distance to the strobe bulkhead Michael (www.mikedive.de)
  2. Hello, I have got a defektive Ikelite A100 strobe used with an analog Canon EOS 50e. Now I want to know how to get out the PCB the other things are not as tricky I imagine only one elektronic part is defektive and I want to try to get a new one. The strobe charges , ready light on , the ignition also works but there is no voltage at the flashtube so I beleve the Tyristor ( IGBT ?) will be defektive. help will be welcome as Ikelite does not repair this type any longer. If I get a PN it will be nice so it is not necassary to post to all users. Michael
  3. Hello , UFL2 is nothing else than an exploded Olympus FL36 strobe in a UW housing made by sunpac ( Sea&Sea brand owner)
  4. Hi, as the Nikonos V socket is connected the same way all over the world this should give no further problems. You only have to take care of the combination plug and socket an original Nikons V Socket has 3 solid and 2 springpins in Germany there are also N5 sockets available using 5 solid pins so a normal Nikonos V plug is not fitting in a N5 socket therefor you need a N5 plug other way around there is no problem a N5 plug also fitts into a NikonosV socket but you have to care about propper contakt between the springpins and the little sockets in the N5 Plug. Some times you have to widen the holes carefully wich a little drill or filling them up with some little brass nails you get out of some 1mm solder pins used on PCB´s by filing one half away. Michael
  5. Hi folks , I know a guy who does souch stuff in any way needet the problem is there are only a few (2) manufakturers in Germany/Austria who produce the plugs for the S6. I plan to do myself a own Version .In a few weeks a Ikelite/S6 housing bulkhead is available based on the Ikelite thread and adaptable to my S6 bulkhead there are also other adapters available ( Olympus PT/ PTE housings ) aditional it is posible to use the same base also for S8 or S4 connects if someone needs, the inserts are available in different pin numbers. My New S6 is compatible to all other S6 Versions. I already rebuild Ikelite housings with S6 by milling up to a M14 x 1 tread into the original Ikelite housing it is no problem at all cause the Ikelite thread is smaler. I already changed the Ikelite synccables into Ikelite/S6 ones by mounting a new S6 plug to the old cable. Last week I have done for a Subal Canon 20D user with two Ikelite DS125 I also addet a E-TTL MKII konverter to the Subal housing. Fits perfekt and works marvelous. Michael
  6. Hi , in combination with the TTL Konverter your strobe is at TTL so you only may compensate via the camera or/and via the Konverter. If you want to compensate via the Strobe you should change to manual mode by switching to rear curtain so no preflashes are triggert and the strobe is flashing with the adjusted power . Mixing manual power and TTL form camera you will get also good results but only below -1 f stop the TTL cirquit is switched off and the strobe flashes twice ( pre and main flash with both 1/2 power -1f stop) and if the situation is matching with -1 f stop and the cam ist set to A or S mode, in M mode you will get problems. The auto modus of the strobe is also useful in very low f-stop situations always based upon ISO100 the strobe will fire twice with both power set the same based on the view of the front sensor oft the strobe. so you will be able to shot F2 ISO 100 up to F11 if you want to get up to f16 you have to swith cam to a higher ISO level to match with the strobe power steps . The next problem is, different strobes have different electronics some are quick some are slow I noticed a differenz between the old INON z220 and the new z240 the Z220 has a burntime of about 5500 my sec the Z240 only of about 3500 both triggert manualy full power ..... this is a problem for the TTL konverter cause the regulation is based on burntime ..... and additionaly the Z240 is adding more the duble of burntime as it is switched by the converter ......... So the Z240 has 2 Tubes seperately connected and the z220 tubes are connected in line ..... so the Z240 sucks the power out of the capacitator mouch faster then the z220 the summary Power ( watt/ sec ) is the same so the burning curve inside the converter could not match with both strobes. Michael
  7. Hi Rob , no problem at all, I have got some at stock just send an e-mail Michael
  8. Hi all , I just yesterday finished a new projekt as an alternative to a ringflash It is a multible flash baseing on the smal uw slave strobes from Fisheye, fantasea, aquamir and all2dive called nano, pst120 or picco12 . I found a solution to trigger one stobe via wire and the other(s) are triggert optical. The strobes are equiped with an auto sensor baseing on ISO100 F 3,5 -11 ..... with 3 power sets between -0.5 and +0,5 f stops. by using a diffuser for the sensor I was able to go up from F11 - F18 ( ISO 100) and using ISO 200 up to F22 .... and if I cover the sensor compleete there will be more ... but I could not test cause my lens ( zuiko 50mm makro) ends at F22. The testing distance ( work distance) has been about 9 cm up to 40 cm in front of the portglas. next week on Thuresday the first pool tests are planed.... The strobe is triggert in manual mode ( no TTL) but it is posible to use it also with the TTL konverter if you know how many preflashes you will get, cause you can cancle one or two preflashes. The two (or more) little strobes are mounted at a ring holder fixed around a Makro port they are mounted on little arms ( 3 cm ) so you are able to turn up and down to get a flexible lighting ....... In the strobe set 3 different diffusers for the strobe are addet -1 , -2 , -3 using these you are able to create multible light situations with hard and soft or none shades as you want. I have done about 120 test pics and the 2 AAA 750 mAh NiMh cells are already working. For modeling light I use the new automatic cut of pilot light sold under the brands of fisheye and fantasea and all2dive this light will be also mounted on the MD Makrostrobe Portring on the top, so you will be able to get a perfekt lighting with a fast AF for shooting makro. I tested with my UK-GERMANY E330 housing and noticed that a minimal distance down to 3 cm in front of the portglas is posible to get a propper light to an Objekt . Today I do a few changes to the prototype again and then I will come back with a pic. I imagine the strobe will be the smalest, cable triggered, UW strobe worldwide it will be posible to get all different connectors are on market ( Nikonos 5, S6, Ikelite, fantasea6, patima6 ) And if you have a compakt camera without a syncconector it will also be posible to use but in a version without a cable ( ceapest way ) also if you want to trigger with a already existing main strobe. It will be no problem to build a fitting port ring for every existing port diameter as a individual solution. and now I have do think about the price ..... Michael
  9. Hi all , @rattus no there is no sealed part in the housing if the viewer falls out if it fall´s out you do not need a sealing But the unit itself is compeete sealed so if a housing gets floodet " only" the cam is dead .....The sealing is like a port sealing, one 0-Ring ...... the turnment is sealed in the unit so no problems about users handling ..... I already had a look through the 45° viewfinder at the 5D housing .... allmost an alternative to my E330 liveview display but the price....... Michael
  10. Hello , simple answer : a TTL converter converts the cam system TTL into the strobe system TTL a bit more informations : every digital and anaolog cam speaks a different language to tell the strobe what to do ..... the TTL converter is a translater between cam and strobe and obvious to use if you will conneckt a simple Nikonos TTL protokoll understanding UW strobe to a digital cam . The strobe has to be able to fire as fast as the cam needs some older ones are not able to do so they are not kompatible .....nearly all digital cams are using preflashes to do metering and exposer control some use 1 preflash others up to 18 ..... Michael
  11. Hi , it is a Heinrichs Weikamp Oly TTLC3 Konverter but poor connected to a original Olympus cable .... the electronics are not covered.......they sell it under their own brand ???......... Heinrichs Weikamp did not know till today..... I wonder who is the manaufakturer of the Olympus to Sea&Sea synccable it looks like 10bar but they only offer a 2 wire non TTL cable...... Olympus to INON/SEA&Sea Synccable and you need a complete wired cable to transmit TTL to the strobe as they told the YS60 is not compatibel this is not right but you need to know how to connect. Michael
  12. Hi Udo , these arms are not manufactured by fantasea only distributed .... Fantasea is only a brand not a manufacturer ..... I know the producer of the arms about one year befor fantasea discovered them. If you have seen the fanatasea produkts you will see most of them are even delivered under the brand 10bar, but 10bar is also only a brand .... not the manufacturer..... In a few months a new european brand is comeing up and you will able to buy all these items and mouch more at a shop in your home country being listet under the brand ..... This is just a flashlight above what is comeing up. Michael
  13. Hi , be happy a German manual for all Inon Strobes is ... not existing jet ... the strobe( Z240 ) official not available first few parts will arrive end of the month . .. but the grey importers sell the strobes already for lower prices I will pay for at the wholeseller...and they have them 2 month befor the official INON distributor will receve them. I do not understand the INON practis about that . First Japanese market then North America and at last Europe .... and European market is destoyed about grey Importers from Japan. It is no fun to deal with INON parts in Europe you allways have to say ...... may bee next 14 days ......... Michael
  14. Hi , send me a e-mail and you will get a pdf with the wiring of the S6 Bulkhead socket ( info@mike-dive.de ) Michael
  15. Hi , in Germany there is a manufacturer who does such stuff : www.uk-germany.com for the h2 there is already a housing from UK-GERMANY Michael
  16. Hi , I had the same problem and I found a solution I use 2 neck straps olympus offers as a give away for the smal mju mini this is a solution with a plastick snaper and a smal fixing rope ... I tested the plastic part ..... it is not posible to crack with human force using your hands the parts are short fixed to the cam and the normal neckstrap is connecktet to the plastic part ..... it is only a second to put away the neckstrap ....... and it is also no problem to fitt into a housing ....... I have looked around but never found such smal clipp parts anywere Michael
  17. Hi, Try to set the YS120 to slave so it will mimic the ys 90 so you do not need a synccable for the ys120.
  18. Hi , First problem is strobe circuit design ..... all UW strobes are groundet above the old fashioned and easy , clear Nikonos analog TTL protokoll. The new DSLR cams are using several TTL protokolls some need 5 wires other 6 wires. A under water strobe is an expensive part and should fitt also to future cams so: as long as there are different solutions for Strobe protocolls this probs will not clead up. Ikelite has his own system through his TTL cirquit which only works perfekt with his DS strobes so why should he change anything ???? The other TTL converter solutions are : Metz - SCA Adapters only working with Metz strobes. MH adapters working with different strobes but this also takes some problems every strobe is different and has different cirquits and flash tubes so the firmware is always a compromise to support many strobes as posible. Some big strobes like a Subtronic maxi or nowa will not work as good as a Sea&Sea ys 60 strobe this depends on the TTL konverter firmware but there are solutions through special updates. In my opinnion the S6 plug solution is the best existing one worldwide ...... the S6 socket is mountable in all housings produced in Germany/Europ there are only a few different ways to do : a plane 25mm surface round the hole , and a 14 mm hole or a treaded hole M14x1 if there is no thread you need a nut to fix so it is easyly posible to mount a S6 into a Ikelite housing by drilling a hole or drill the existing sockethole to 14 mm. ( Ike I know you don´t want to hear this ) The S6 plugs and sockets are available in single parts in Germany so everyone who want´s , will be able to do a cable for . The problem about the existing semi Nikonos 5 sockets with 5 pinns is about the spring pin problem . The spring pin solution was a soloution to the support the old Nikonos 3 plug strobes( non TTL ) to the newer Nikonos ( V and RS ) cams) and these are always problematic and weak . But this is the same as with the camera manufacturers no one wants to support the others adding parts .......... but this is my turn ..... to live from. I am sitting between the chairs an I feel well about . Michael
  19. Hi , it is not proofed jet if the D240 is kompatible to the fast DSLR protokolls if it is a pulled up Z220 it will be to slow if it is a pulled up D2000w it will work ....... all this in combinaton with the TTL converters ..... I hope to get one next time ..... to test For my new setup ( E330 ) I planed a Hartenberger 250hs strobe the recycling time will be 0,3 sec full dump 250 W/s ...... after 5 dumps you cannot touch the battery pack, the chargeing konverter sucks about 100 A out of the NICd cells so they will get realy hot ....... and after 10 the flash tube will shine red shortly bevore melting the glas the thermo sensor will block any more flashes til the temperature is low again. This is a real Flash machinegun for rapid shoting but he price is also high .... about 1450,00 euro..... it is available in June ore July this year I first try with two YS60 Speed ...... this are my especialy tuned YS60 stobes to be able to serve a delay of 2 ms ( normaly 30 ms ) they are also able to serve a optical ( trough Digitaladapter ) Strobe protokoll from Konica/Minolta SLR (5 preflashes... delay, 3 ms and one mainflash ) Michael
  20. Hi LyN , you will get an direct answer soon ...... the first here : The strobe will work also with the Sea&Sea Motormarine 4 pole synccable caus the Trigger , Quench and Ground pinns are the same. But there is a problem with the TTL converter getting it´s energy out of the missing Ready line and I do not know if the Trigger line of the Inon strobes is strong enough to serve too ...... I cannot test right now cause my last stock is sold today ... waiting for new D2000w. The YS60 and the YS50 are strong enough ........ to serve the Digitaladapter , and the TTL-C3 converter ( the TTL-IR converter is out ) also in the S version. But notice the INON strobe will not work with the Motormarine II and the EX Michael
  21. Hi , sell the parts you need for is not the problem this are only two little special VA pinns but the way to repair is a bit tricky : First build a fixing plate to fix the housing at a drilling machine but I use a hand milling machine fixed to the drillmachine holder with a 3mm milling drill and at 10.000 rpm turn and drill the hole just not to go trough then I drill by hand to 3.2 mm and tap a M4 thread inside .... fill with epoxi resin and skrew the pinns in so you wount get any pressure to the PC material and a perfekt fitting, glued seat ..... the first housings I fitted about 2 years ago ( PT20 ) never got one back so it works like I hoped to do...... sorry for my poor technical l englisch but you will understand ..... Michael
  22. Hi , I think it is a polyouretane based sealent we kow here in germany sikaflex too and all car frontwindows are glued with such stuff but you have to proof there is no PC harming material inside I can buy it in every camping and mobilhome store. it is available in different colors most black and white..... next time I will buy one to do some testes about harm and fitting on PC materials Michael
  23. Hi Gordo , This problem, you are not alone round the world I fitted about 70 Housings Last year´s with the same problem...... have a look at this : My Webpage it is in German ( you may use the google translation ) but the pics you see will show you the solution. Michael
  24. Hi , I have repaird this problem several times for my coustomers ...... I unskrew the 4 skrews mill away the fixing tubes and close the holes in the foot drill 2 holes trough put 2 pinns 2 mm ainless steel inside going trough the foot set 4 new M2 skrews with 4 M2 nuts in and filled all up with a epoxi resin long hardener for low temperature so it is imposible to destroy it again ...... I prever not to use any glue which is agressive to the PC material little cracs will apear and this is the end of the housing and PC is s problematic material to glue and the surface is very fine so no adhesive glue will lit a long time if it is a to hard glue you will get probs cause of the temperature movement of PC .... so fix with mechanical and trough form. Michael
  25. Hi , I used a normal aluminium made tripod for some pool test shots I weight it with a 2Kg and saddled my C7070 on, nice to do but if you want to take long shutter pics you need also a distance shutter to provide shakeing the setup ..... or your cam has a mirror up delay mode. A salt water resistance high tripod is a part you will not get on market you always have to do by your own , and use with care to the reef and sandy grounds.......but always the housing has to have a tripod 1/4 " thread in bottom or tray or if not you have to add a plate with the right one. Michael
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