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chromatophore

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About chromatophore

  • Rank
    Damselfish

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  • Website URL
    http://www.seethroughsea.com
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kona, HAWAII

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D800, D800e
  • Accessories
    10-17, 16-35, 35, 50, 70-200

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Hi All, Looking for a used Nauticam 8.5" acrylic port (18802) without noticeable scuffs or scratches on the port as well as the extension ring 20 (21120) with lock. Zero concern about cosmetic blemishes on the shade/port extension provided it doesn't affect functionality. If you have either/both of these items send me a DM with your price + shipping to the US. Thanks!
  2. Hi All, I'm selling my used Tokina 10-17mm f/3.5-4.5 DX AF NH Fisheye after a few years of dutiful service. The glass is pristine, and autofocus functions as good as new. It's definitely not as glamorous as it once was, and would be a great lens for someone looking for an awesome close focus crop sensor fisheye for cheap. The rear cap below the zoom belt is a little on the loose side, but it doesn't affect the lens performance. $10 to ship domestic US. PayPal preferred. Price is firm
  3. Hi All, It's time to retire the Ikelite housing for my Nikon D7000. It's just sitting on the shelf collecting dust. It's been recently serviced, although she's not much to look at. Hoping to find someone dedicated to their D7000 that wants a cheap housing to get started with or as a backup. Didn't opt for an electronics repair as the repair cost and service exceeded my estimate for the total value of the housing. It's bone dry, all of the buttons and toggles actuate smoothly and function as they should. I have a standard 6" port that I'll throw in if need be, and a myriad of port extensions if anyone looking has the Ikelite 8" acrylic. If you're interested, make me an offer and we'll go from there. I'll be happy to post images if anyone is interested as well. Cheers
  4. I have two like-new Nauticam Fiber Optic Cables for sale: Nauticam to Sea & Sea Strobe fiber optic connectors. Retail price is $100 each. $50 individually or $100 for the pair. Free domestic US shipping. Thanks, Jim
  5. I have two Ikelite Nikon Digital to 1 Ikelite strobe sync cables for sale. Both are in mint condition and retail for $110 each. $55 each or $100 for the pair with free domestic US shipping. Feel free to message with any questions. Jim
  6. Hi everyone, I have a like-new Sea & Sea 5 pin Dual Sync Cord for sale. It retails close to $200. Asking $125 with free domestic shipping. Feel free to message with any questions, Jim
  7. Wow! Thanks Tim, Mike and Kaj for the great advice. I'll be sure to post a link to the video wherever it ends up. You guys will be the first to know.
  8. Hi Wetpixel! Ok Ladies and Gents, I'm in a bit of a dilemma. I managed to get some pretty outrageous footage recently and am completely confused as to how I should proceed. I've got about 30minutes of misc. dolphin behavior, from cute and serene to aggressive and active. All shot in 1080HD/60fps using the raw WB capture settings with a Hero3. There's only one video I've ever seen that's even similar (see below) and I'm excited, but nervous. I know that if I put it up on the web it will garner a lot of views, but it'll be less attractive for someone looking for exclusivity and originality. Does anyone on here know any stock agents that they would recommend/trust to see this end up in the right hands? I've attached a screenshot from the clip, but with a 1000kb limit its a pretty poor representation. I'd love to see this end up a part of a much bigger ocean project or documentary, and it'd be great to make a little coin to kickstart the next adventure/project. This is clearly a wild shot in the dark, but there are some of, if not the most talented UW artists on the planet on here and I'm hoping someone would be willing to steer me in the right direction. From what I've heard, there's a $2,500 licensing cap with GoPro, so that may not the best avenue. Thanks in advance for your consideration and time, Jim Ward
  9. Hi everyone, I have an issue that's probably more common sense than I'll admit to myself. I've just purchased an Ikelite 5510.22 port body to replace the smaller 5510.16 that I had been using and I'm stumped. I assumed that the body would mate to my 8" port just as the .16 had and I was wrong. In tightening the new port body down it threads initially but gets too tight without coming close to making a seal. I replaced the old port body just to verify the fit and it mated without an issue. Then I swapped o-rings, cleaned and checked the threads and inspected for any warping on the body and still nothing. Neither ikelite or adorama keep reasonable business hours for someone living in Hawaii and ikelite's frequently asked questions somehow seem to exclude the possibility of anyone having a similar issue so I'll put it out there...anyone have any idea what's going on here? Why can't I screw the 5510.22 into the port assembly? I'd really like to dive this setup in the morning but there's no way I'm putting an already touchy housing in the water with a 1/4" gap between the port and body. Thanks in advance for any words of wisdom here! Cheers, Jim
  10. Alright, well the verdict is in and predictably it's a good one! Thanks Alex and Tim for taking the time to instruct a novice. It seems that shooting at 1/640 really is a magic # for the dolphins, but I've also found that I can dial down the ISO a bit and still get nice results. I've been shooting at 1/800 with the ISO at 400 on shutter priority and I've been happy. My only concern is that the images can get blown out when the camera is left to its own devices at times, resulting in an unnecessarily overexposed image that seems wasteful of valuable aperture range. If the ISO is at 640 and the shutter at 1/640, wouldn't it seem logical that the camera would be fast enough to compensate for a spectrum of available light? If I'm under the dolphins shooting up it's as if the camera is overloaded. Either way I'm thrilled with the progress, thanks again!
  11. Wow guys! Thanks, and to think I second guessed myself with the original post...I'm going to head out and try a little fine tuning today. I'll repost my results but I'm anxious to see where this wealth of information takes me. I'm also going to test out the Nikkor 10-24mm. Hopefully coupled with your suggestions I'll come up with something worth reposting! Happy Holidays, Jim
  12. Hi everyone, I've got an interesting hurdle and thought this was the most appropriate place to seek out some advice. I've been swimming with the same pod of dolphins for about a year now with a lot of success, but because the animals are in a resting phase when I see them near shore I'd prefer to have little or no impact while I'm there. If a strobe is out of the question, what configurations would you suggest to see optimal results? I've got a Nikon D7000 and have been fairly satisfied with an 18-55vr. The 10-17 is great for those fantastically close or enormous cetaceans, but these little spinners don't get much bigger than about 2m and although friendly, tend to be camera shy at times. Now the D7000 features a whole host of focus options, but because the dolphins are quick and unpredictable I've had to experiment quite a bit. I know that this is compounded by my disinterest in additional light, but too small an aperature shows this 3.5 lens its limits, and (as I learned from a recent Alex Mustard seminar on port distortion) too large an aperture renders much of the pod a bit of a blur. Now I don't know how many of you feel about higher ISO levels, and I know the D7000 has a wide spectrum of capability, but I like to keep it as close to 100 as I can. Another issue that I've noticed is that when selecting the focus tracking feature and continuous servo the focus will end up on the surface and not the dolphin beneath it. I'm assuming that because of the motion of the animal the camera defaults to the largest and most accessible target which hasn't always proven to be the subject I'd prefer. Would you expect better results from the single-point AF or from the slightly larger 9-point dynamic area? Or is the 9-point the root of my water-subject dilemma? My last question pertains to white balance. Now since you've made it this far into the thread try and apply all of the hurdles I've thrown at you towards effectively white balancing this scenario. If I'm shooting in sRGB raw, should I simply toggle the white balance to auto correct in post, or try and shoot a white slate on the fly? I feel very fortunate to be in the situation that I'm in, and feel the least I could do is pull my weight in the photo dept. to share the marvelous spinners with those less able to see them with their own eyes. Mahalo,
  13. I'm not sure if the original author has made their purchase or not, but I have some constructive criticism and objective advice for the IKE D7000. I've been shooting this setup almost seven days a week for six months or so with great results. It's true that much of the engineering is improved as you climb the price ladder, but once you learn the controls you can overcome many of the housing's "shortcomings" with patience and make good use of the extra cash. I'd say save the $1,000-1,500 and pick up lenses that would more specifically cater to your preferred subject matter. The clear housing can be a lifesaver, especially for those of us diving it pretty regularly and so far the setup is sound. I haven't owned an Aquatica or Nauticam, so I can't make a brand comparison but it's my third Ikelite and I've been satisfied thus far.
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