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diverdoug1

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Everything posted by diverdoug1

  1. diverdoug1
    If Nauticam does not BOTH apologize and PAY the photographers, I will stop recommending their products. Nauticam has described their products as”professional” equipment. Professionals get paid! If you do not pay up, I hope you lose your market share. DO THE RIGHT THING NAUTICAM!
  2. diverdoug1
    Yes, I have thousands of flashes on my D1 strobes, one of my D@ flash tubes blew at about 1000 flashes.
  3. diverdoug1
    I have 4 YS-D1 strobes and anInon z240 that have been flawless. I bought 2 YS-D2 strobes in September, The flash tube burned out on one if them on my last dive trip. I am waiting to hear back from sea & sea. I sent in for service last week
  4. diverdoug1
    Not that it helps in ID for this part but as a tip, Anytime that I buy a gear of extension, I immediately label it with a sharpie for part # and size.
  5. diverdoug1
    Just saw Adam Hanlon's article regarding Jellyfish lake. I was in Palau last month. On April 16 there were very few jellyfish seen in the lake. On April 23 our group of 12 divers found ZERO jellyfish in an attempt to cover the entire lake surface. I was told by our liveaboard Capt. that Jellyfish lake has been shut down for diving tourism at this time.
  6. diverdoug1
    When shooting with my105 lens doing super macro, I find the ability to focus manually is indispensable. When shooting the 60 My depth of field is much larger and fine manual focus adjustments are not routinely needed IMHO.
  7. diverdoug1
    I have 4 YS-D1 and 2 YS-D2, Only reliablility issue I have had with any of them is when I had some minor corrosion on a D! battery cap, it caused the strobe to misfire, resolved with a cleaning of the contacts. Otherwise flawless through over 1000 dives.
  8. diverdoug1
    Yes, the z240 will produce a much more intense cone of illumination.. "Cone of illumination" sounds like something out of a SciFi novel
  9. diverdoug1
    Don't consider it needing to be "dumbed down" , we all started somewhere . To get the dark background, you need the brightness of the snoot light to overwhelm the ambient light conditions, so that when your camera is set up to properly expose your subject, the background looks very dark. In conditions where the ambient light is bright, the snoot output must be very powerful.
  10. diverdoug1
    The main CON is that you will always be shooting within a very narrow (and in some situations non-existent) exposure range which will have your subject adequately exposed, while giving you a very dark underexposure outside of your area of illumination. It may work ok in very low ambient light conditions, but you will certainly be limiting yourself in conditions where the ambient light is brighter.
  11. diverdoug1
    Not even close IMHO. You would be very limited by the low output. I would suggest comparing both.
  12. diverdoug1
    You would need a VERY powerful focus light to be useful shooting through a snoot. I DO use the modeling light on my strobe as an aiming tool for the strobe.
  13. diverdoug1
    Sharpening and a bit more contrast might help, but it is tough to fix blur or out of focus shots in post.
  14. diverdoug1
    I also have this issue only in TTL mode
  15. diverdoug1
    I love my YS-D2 strobes. It is too easy to accidentally bump the preflash switch on the YS-D1s, I also like the mode color light, you know you are in the correct mode on night dives.
  16. diverdoug1
    I shoot both YS-D!, YS-D@, and Inon z240. I like the Sea & Sea strobes better for most applications because I find the much easier to adjust output levels (I almost always shoot manual). I only use the z240 when using a Retra snoot, because it has a better modeling light output.
  17. diverdoug1
    If I am shooting super-macro, I usually have my strobes at 3 & 9 o'clock, adjacent to the port, or one at 12, and the other to the side with just enough side highlighting to give some depth.
  18. diverdoug1
    I just measured a port extension for the modular Ikelite system, and it does not look like it will accommodate a 98mm diameter lens, so another reason you might want to reconsider trying to use the 14-24
  19. diverdoug1
    Actually, The Nikon 16-35 f/4 is a superior lens behind a dome IMHO. Here is a review http://wetpixel.com/articles/review-nikon-fx-wide-angle-lenses/P2 and one for the 14-24 http://wetpixel.com/articles/review-nikon-fx-wide-angle-lenses/P1 and this thread http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=47844
  20. diverdoug1
    When I switched from an Ikelite housing to Aquatica with optical bulkheads, I originally tried to use my Ikelite DS 161 strobes with the Ikelite F/O adapter. I had frequent failures to trigger the strobes(YMMV). I switched to Sea &Sea YsD1 strobes, and they work flawlessly with F/O cables and I can shoot TTL via F/O if I wish. All without having to worry about corroded or failing sync cords ever again. I also can run 4 strobes or disconnect and reconnect off camera strobes underwater. I was an Ikelite fan boy for 25 years, but I will never go back to electronic sync cords.
  21. diverdoug1
    I like to use a rectilinear lens when shooting Whitetips. The stretch of the fish eye combined with the paddle shape of the dorsal fin is not pleasing to my eye. YMMV.
  22. diverdoug1
    I am using the G I can't say I am ever tempted to reach for the old aperture ring.
  23. diverdoug1
    I still use my 60mm on a full frame rig for fish portraits, and larger macro subjects in turbid water.
  24. diverdoug1
    I switched to stix floats. They can't leak.
  25. diverdoug1
    I think the locking collar works very well, but it would be a pain to switch it back and forth between different extensions
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