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Everything posted by diverdoug1

  1. I use the 16-3.5 with the 9.25 inch Aquatica megadome, and I still find it a bit soft, regardles of aperture. I usually am happier shooting with a 16mm prime fisheye.
  2. I have the same problem if I try to shoot TTL with my d800 and D1 strobes and the 105 lens. I use an Aquatica housing and F/O cables. The bottom of the image will be dark. Shutter speeds 1/200 or 1/125. I usually shoot in manual so it does not effect my shooting, but wanted to confirm that it is not an isolated problem.
  3. All of the positions you mention will work, just be creative! Positioning the snoots straight on will let you set your camera for a slightly darker background, but not significantly, but do max out the strobe output if you want a darker background with a properly illuminated subject.
  4. Sorry, my buddy switched over to an Aquatica rig and sold his Ikelite stuff. I never took a photo of the DS51 triggered setup.
  5. Just buy a crappy used DS51 and hook it up to the strobe connector, zip tie the DS51 to your strobe arms,and slave your good strobes off of the DS51. You should mask the DS51 with black tape to decrease backscatter. I set up this arrangement when a friend wanted to compare Ikelite DS200 strobes to some D1 strobes using an Ike housing.
  6. I think Buddy was assuming that the 10-17 was a rectilinear lens.
  7. I use many different sizes of Pelican cases depending on what kind of shoot or trip I am doing. They are nearly indestructible, but they are also heavy.
  8. This is the real question of U/W photography when it comes down to brass tacks. How much of a pain it the ass are you willing to put up with for improved image quality? This question ranges from the micro 4/3rds cameras up to the Scarlet systems. Smaller is easier and you can argue that it is "just almost about as good". Bigger is ( so much harder to carry and pack) but slightly better. Logistics is the task-master of underwater photography. Do your put all of your photo gear in carry-on, or do you tell your wife that you are checking 200 pounds of photo gear, and she can not bring her entire shoe collection? You knew the answer to this question before you asked it. A huge mega dome WILL make a difference in image quality. A big friggin' dome always has better optics than a smaller dome. The question is "is it worth the trouble?" It is impossible to answer that question for you! Can you take an increadibly good image with a smaller dome? YES!, Would the same image taken with a larger dome probably be a little bit better? YES! Is a bigger dome a lot bigger pain in the ass to travel and free-dive with? YES! The other posts above have great merit, but you really need to decide what lengths you want to go to, in order to get the best possible image.
  9. I used Subsee with it's laser carved adapter on an Ikelite housing for many years and was happy with it. When I bought an adapter to fit my Aquatica housing, I had nothing but problems. Unlike the adapter for Ikelite, the adapter made to fit Aquatica did not have a locking mechanism opposite the hinge. The lack of a lock to hold the hinge closed made it necessary to tighten the thumbscrew enough to stop the Subsee from flopping in and out of position. The soft plastic that is used in construction of the adapter is not strong enough to stand up to this tightening for long, and the screws stripped out in short order. I made the decision to switch to the Aquatica close-up lenses.
  10. Type of strobe? Type of sync cord ( f/o, electronic)? Housing type?
  11. Tom, while it certainly is possible to use your technique, it becomes problematic to rely on the cameras autofocus when you have foreground and background objects which are not in the focal plane of your desired subject, but could be identified as the focal subject by the camera IQ (think a Pygmy Seahorse in a branching Sea fan.). Simply finding such a tiny subject in the viewfinder can be quite a task, so making sure that the focus pixel is not picking up on a piece of foreground or background detritus can be pretty tough.
  12. Tim, see if Xit404 makes a gear so that you could use the zoom knob on your housing for manual focus of the lens. This is that arrangement I have on my Aquatica for my D800. I use the standartd non-af flat port. The gear was much cheaper than buying the manual focus flat port, as well as easier to use!
  13. I guess my opinion is not the norm. I Would go with a YS-D1. The higher guide number can be helpful for subjects that are not quite as close on your W/A shots, and for super-macro the more powerful strobe can pay off. It also makes trans-illuminating shots easier as well. As far as problems with pairing the D1 and 01, I have shot them together and not had an issue with the different powers negatively effecting images. My $.02
  14. I use one of the big Nauticam carbon fiber floating arms in the modeling light screw hole on top of the housing. This helps counter act the tendency to tip up.
  15. I use the red beam on my Sola 800 photo 90% of the time when I am night diving. It attracts way fewer bloodworms. Even when I might use the white light to look for creatures, I switch to red once I locate one. I find most creatures out at night tend to shy away from the white light more than the red.
  16. Turbohampster asked "Maybe a stupid question but has anyone noticed any difference in the buoyancy of their housing when using a vacuum?" The density of air at sea level at 15°C is 1.225 grams per liter. Pumping the housing down to negative 10" Hg at the surface will decrease this by roughly 33%, resulting in about 0.408 grams per liter change in weight by applying the vacuum. Most DSLR housings have an internal volume of less than 2 liters, so the change in buoyancy will be less than 1 gram.
  17. On a DSLR, it takes much more than modest torque to pry off a port. A port with 5" orifice has 99 pounds of pressure pressing it into the housing when at 10 inches Hg of vacuum.
  18. Elmer, the Aquatica AD800 DOES allow use of the "DOF" and "FUNCTION" controls. Are you sure you were comparing the correct housing?
  19. divenngolf: I actually use the Inon double connection supplied by Aquatica. I just cut the Sea & Sea end off of one side of each of my F/O cables, so I have 2 strobes triggered by one bulkhead. I sometimes use a third strobe for fish eye shots, which I trigger of my second F/O bulkhead (although I could also slave off one of the other strobes). I find these connections very secure and reliable.
  20. I have an older Subal SLR film housing and numerous Ikelite housings., and new Nauticam and Aquatica housings. I used to be a Subal fan-boy, but I think that the quality and value for the money of both Aquatica and Nauticam have really improved over the years. My personal opinion is that Subal is coasting on their name an are no longer king of the hill. Between Nauticam and Aquatica, I think the fit and finish of Nauticam is superior, but Aquatica is over-built and sturdier. I have admired Seacam and Hugyfot housings (they seem very nice) but have no experience with them for comparison. Just my $.02.
  21. I moved from DS161 strobes to YSD1's. If you wish to have TTL cpability, the cheapest way is to put an optical bulkhead on your camera an use fiber optic cables. The D1's and 240's have a slightly cooler temperature than the 161's(I shoot in RAW and fine tune the temperature in my RAW editor as part of my usual wwork flow, but it is worth mentioning the differencs). It seems the initial glitches the D1's had have been worked out. All 3 of mine have been fine and I know a number of otheres who have had no problems with them.. I find the controls much more intuitive and easier to manipulate than the INON's. With the diffusers on, I find the powerre comperable between the D1's and the 240's. I noticed the bottom of some of my images were a bit dark when I tried the TTL feature. Since I always use manual, I am not sure if this is a frequent problem.
  22. I agree 100%. I am sold on vacuum systems. I feel The benefits of making sure I made no mistakes in set-up, as well as locking the components together and preloading the o-rings to prvent surface blow-by water intrusion, make my U/W photography experience much more relaxing and enjoyable.
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