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SCUBO25

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About SCUBO25

  • Rank
    Starfish

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Toluca Lake, Ca.

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Netherlands
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 10D
  • Camera Housing
    Ikelite, Oceanic, Hassy, Rollimarine
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Ikelites w/ EO
  • Accessories
    TLC, ULCS, Oceanic arms
  1. Thank you for the pictures Fergus! I like the simple extension modification for the menu buttons. I got extra Stainless Ikelite control buttons by buying an old discontinued Ikelite PS housing cheap on eBay for just spare parts use. Ended up with 9 push controls and spare shaft glands for about $60, which are fully matching with other controls on my SLR housing and are fully servicable. Worth looking out for if a SLR modification requires additional parts you can not get from Ikelite. I'm curious if my old 10D Ike housing can be up-graded with some of your suggested modifications, when I have the $ to buy that 5DII .
  2. Hello hanachan, Thank you for your response to my inquiry. You are an inspiration to me and others for the DIY projects you have done and shared with us all . I will excuse your Japanese grammar, if you excuse my Dutch grammar...LOL. I totally understand that my question is difficult to explain and probably will have to be answered by my own trials. I promise to report on my experimentation as I go along. I hope to not experience a flooded dome, but that is a risk we all take as DIY underwater explorers Safe bathtub and pool testing will be done before the ocean. I'm considering a possibly risky adapter design that has not been considered before to my knowledge. I will report when I get something more concrete to share. Where did you get your domes? Does anybody know how to get the optical glass domes? Again, thank you for your reply hanachan Bo
  3. OK. So I searched and read articles on "Dome Theory" with the most useful being here on Wetpixel <http://wetpixel.com/i.php/full/dome-theory/>. The Tok 10-17 FE zoom should be able to focus on the virtual images of the 8" dome. But I'm still wondering which lens to dome distance is ideal to allow corner sharpness within the full 10 to 17 zooming range. Can anybody provide me with some insight how the Tok behaves behind an 8" dome from experience? If the 10mm zoom setting on infinity and f4 allows corner sharpness, how is the corner sharpness on 17mm? Or is there no difference from experience? Is therer a compromise? Would an adjustable dome adapter be an useful consideration? Still clueless...please help me. - Bo
  4. My DIY project is to make an adapter so I can use an old 8" dome port for my ancient Oceanic Hydro 35 F1 housing to fit on my digital Ikelite housing using my Tokina 10-17 FE zoom. The plan is to sacrifice an old Ike macro port, cut off the lens end and gluing a customized acrilyc adapter that will fit my 8" Oceanic dome. This is the question I have for those in the know: 1. How far should the dome be from the lens? I already played around with the dome and housing and found the maximum distance where the corners of the port are not showing. Is this all that I need to care about? Or should the dome curvature match the lens curvature more for edge to edge sharpness? I currently use the 6" Ike port, and it would seem logical that the 8" can be a little further away from the lens by the increased dome surface. But how much? 2. Maybe, some of you reading this have the Ike modular 8" dome port on an Ikelite housing for a Canon with a Tok. a. How far is the dome from the housing? b. How far is the lens from the inside of the dome when fully cranked out at 17? 3. Is there any formula to determine ideal lens placement to dome curvature, or is this just a trial and error process? I'm interested in doing more over/under with the 8" dome (since I have it just sitting, since going digital). Thank you in advance for any insight to this DIY project.
  5. Thanks Tom for the nice words. It is good to know there are others out there that still have special memories of this system. And yes, besides the discipline needed in shooting only 12 shots per dive, it was also a lot of underwater gymnastics to replace that bulb after each shot and get it back into that floating net bag. Remember we knew nothing about bouyancy control...LOL. I don't think this new digital generation has any appreciation for what we went through to get those shots back then. But I sure admire the great stuff that is being done these days, as your website is a great example. I'm still keeping my Rolleimarin IV in even better and more complete condition as the II I'm selling. Maybe I should take pictures and share with those appreciative of vintage equipment?
  6. With heavy heart I have decided to part with my beloved vintage Rolleimarin II underwater system. It is complete with Rolleiflex f3.5 camera, flash(bulb) unit, original travel bags, original instruction manuals and misc accessories. I have put it on Ebay last night http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...E:IT&ih=016 I have also put up more pictures of this beautiful system on Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/fotobo25/sets...0240621/detail/ Even if you are not interested in buying, I would recommend to check out the pictures of this legendary iconic system of professional underwater photography. Many of the big names and pioneers in underwater photography had their fame started with this system. I bought this unit waayyy back from Ron Merker, Aquatic Center, Newport Beach. I will miss it and hope it may last another 50+ years with another loving owner. Bo
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