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ryancampbell

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About ryancampbell

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  1. One other thing to consider between these two add-on lenses is if you are shooting with one strobe you have a chance to light the frame using the rectilinear lens (100 degree diagonal FOV). The fisheye would be tough to light even with two strobes. For available light shooting, I'd go with the fisheye, you can de-fish it later if you want to in software. Personally I'm going for both, a $120 add on lens doesn't seem so steep when we just dropped about two and a half grand on the case and ports! Quick calculation of FOV: Fisheye (15mm) HFOV 147 VFOV 94 DFOV 184 Rectilinear (18mm) HFOV 90 VFOV 67 DFOV 100
  2. I believe that extension is intended (and required) for the fisheye adapter in the dome port. Interesting point though, in theory you could stack several of these and then the flat port to make a macro port. By my math it would take 4 of those 16.45mm extensions to house the 18-55mm zoom. I'm not sure how stable/secure this would be though with all those interfaces?
  3. That Acquapazza looks pretty nice. I like the angled viewfinder. I'm a no-touch diver and sometimes I'm guessing on the framing with my current setup if I want to get blue water in with the subject. Do you know of a USA distributor/reseller? From what I can tell it's about 50% more expensive than the Nauticam, but I'll definitely consider it. Regarding Sony alpha macro lenses using adapters, I don't think those will fit in the Aquatica case unless there is a port extension for the pancake port I'm not aware of?
  4. Is there a way to shoot macro on the Aquatica AN-5 NEX-5 setup? I like the housing in general and the zoom dome seems rather versatile, but the only flat port available seems to be for the 16mm pancake lens. A 24mm effective lens would make for a rather comically short working distance if you were trying to shoot non-sessile subjects. Behind the zoom dome you could use a dry close up lens, but you'll lose 30% or so magnification and you can't take the diopter off to shoot far subjects. I'm set on the NEX-5 because of the combination of sensor size and camera size. The Nauticam housing looks nice, I just wanted to make sure that was the only real option for the camera that supports macro and WA before plunking down the $$$. The 10bar seems to have the same limitation of no flat macro port. It does have a wet mount diopter option for the dome, but there's still the loss of magnification, and there doesn't seem to be a good WA dome available for it. Thanks for any info or suggestions.
  5. Yeah, I completely agreee with the logic. I guess I'm on the border of "serious" photographer and vaction shooter. I only get in 20 or 30 dives a year and I hate it when I don't have the right lens to capture the momement when that manta ray flies by or I spot a cool pygmy seahorse. On the other hand, I do frame some of my better shots and I'm pretty proud of some that are hanging by request in other people's houses. So I'm still trying to create that "magic" camera that can: Have good ISO 400+ quality Filter blue light on demand Macro on demand Wide angle on demand Maybe I should look at this as a business opportunity
  6. I've been thinking of putting this together for my next trip. I really enjoy the natural light results using a red/amber filter but you have to take it off for strobe shots. When using a dome port you can't use a wet filter, so you're stuck deciding topside if you're doing flash or not for the whole day. This has been what's keeping me from using a dome. I was thinking that if I used a mild red filter like a Wratten 85 or other magic filter equivalent combined with a blue diffuser on the strobes such as the Inon -.5 blue I could minimize the strobe issue. The effective power of the strobe would be cut significantly since you're filtering out a lot of what is getting output, but I'm guessing this would only matter in a few situations. Anyone ever try this? Thoughts?
  7. Yeah, I messed up the mental image, a diverging lens in front would have the opposite effect making it more wide. Oh well, I'll just have to savor my "macro dives" until someone comes up with a wet primary lens.....
  8. Anyone know of a wet mount teleconverter? Preferrably one that can stack. The utility as I see it would be that you could use a 35mm pancacke lens in a short port, then attach either a WA or a stack of a strong teleconverter+close up lens to achieve macro. Not as good as a dedicated macro, but it allows you do get shots you might otherwise miss.
  9. Thanks for the info! Never knew it had that. I'll have to look into whether I can use it with my G9's eTTL. Looks like the pins are sealed in there even if the port floods, nice design.
  10. There's a big black cap on the back of the Inon z240 with a small phillips screw in the cener of it. My kid partially uncrewed that cap. I don't have a manual for my strobe that shows what that cap is for. Anyone know? I tried to unscrew it the rest of the way but it won't come off. I'd hate to flood it next time I use it. Thanks!
  11. Zounds! I thought it would be more like 1/3 difference, not 2/3. I didn't really want to stack based on the extra hassle of getting all the air out, but good to know I have that option. I did find the Olympus PTMC-01 in stock. That looks to be equivalent at 2x mag. I haven't seen much in the way of posts on that thing, not sure if it's Olympus specific in any way. Perhaps I'll get it *and* a cheap +10 diopter lens and see what works? Thanks for the calc. on air vs. water on the close-up lenses, I'd appreciate any other advice esp on the Oly lens.
  12. No, I have that case as well, the ports are the same diameter, the WA port is just shorter. It has no magnification/FOV difference, it is just shorter so that it won't distort the WA lens when you attach it. You still need to use a thread-on WA lens to get WA. You can't use the zoom with the short port, but I've never found that to be an issue, just get closer! I use the Inon UWL-100. No vingnetting, but the corners are a bit soft.
  13. Going on a trip later this week and remembered that I wanted closer-up macro shots than I was getting with my Canon G10 in a Patima housing. I think the best solution would be an Inon UCL-165M67, but I can't find one in stock anywhere. Can I just grab a "regular" 67mm thread +4 diopter lens, attach it to the port and zoom the lens in on the G10 2x for a similar effect? I know I'll lose some light by zooming in, but this will all be strobe anway. Any other concerns? Is this a dumb idea? It sure would be cheaper!
  14. Thanks for the replies, that clears things up for me a lot. BTW, I just did a single test with a well used Canon S45, which uses the same battery as the G9 and the flash looks like a similar guide number 4 strobe. Both tests were done with a full battery until the camera decided to shut off, one picture every 4 seconds, camera shut down every 20 pictures for 1 minute, AF at semi-random targets 0-10m, LCD on, no zooming or other operations. Strobe on, normal EV setting: 192 shots Stobe off: 263 shots So about 35% improvement. The camera got a lot hotter with the strobe going. The Inon site claims 20% with their s-TTL, that sems about right considering there is still some flashing from the internal strobe. The 100% number was just me remembering dive trips where I could get 2x2 tank trips out of a natural light session and only 2 out of strobe (not s-TTL), but I also am in the habit of turning the LCD off for most of the time and it may have been that I could have gotten 3 tanks out of the strobe setup but didn't want it dying on me.
  15. Does/can the internal flash of the G9 be disabled by the eTTL hookup to the Ikelite strobes? It would seem that this would be a major plus for eTTL vs. sTTL operation since it would double the camera's battery life and prevent fogging. It would also seem to trump any concerns about the eTTL cable flooding the housing since you'd be sealing the main compartment half as often to recharge.
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