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Nicool last won the day on June 3 2020

Nicool had the most liked content!

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About Nicool

  • Rank
    Eagle Ray
  • Birthday 02/10/1984

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  • Location
    Sydney, Australia

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D500
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam NA-D500
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Dual Inon Z240 Type IV

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  1. Thanks Chris! Indeed a square frame around a circle makes sense and would be visually pleasing. Still the 8-15mm is a pricey option for that one usage... So would you know if the Sigma 15mm fisheye on a full frame Nikon would get me the snell window in full? Or similar "cuts" as i get with my Tokina 10-17 on Nikon D500?
  2. Thanks all for the replies. Matt, great manta shot indeed! In all examples i see the snell window "cropped" on the sides, similar to what I get too on my D500 + Tokina combo.
  3. Hi there, I read somewhere (or think I did…) that you wouldn't be able to shoot the full Snell's window on a cropped-sensor camera (e.g. my Nikon D500), even if using a fisheye lens (such as my Tokina 10-17), however you could if using a full frame camera. Indeed, all the photos I have of Snell's window have some of the circular top-side view cut. Researching a bit through the topic, Snell's window is a physical phenomenon that appers, below the surface to be a disc seen with a 97 degrees angle. So, to fully record it on a camera sensor, one would need a 97 degrees coverage not on diagonal, but on the shorter dimension of the sensor. Intuition tells me there are not lots of lenses/camera combos that would allow this (if any). All-in-one, my questions are: 1/ what are the Lens/Cameras/Domes combinations allowing to capture the full disc of the Snell window on a single photo? 2/ I am reading the Snell window is only visible a few meters below the surface, due to light absorption. Would this depend on how clear the water is? I am going to dive a freshwater spot soon with crazy lots of viz (40+ meters I am told), so wondering if Snell's window might get visible at depth. Cheers Nicolas
  4. And i am interested in arms and clamps Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Ditto! We’re very lucky down here Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Still looking... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Thanks, looks pretty worn out but i’ll inquire Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. hi guys, I am looking to buy a second hand Nauticam flat port, either ref. 18701, or ref. 18702 (the later would be my preference). make me an offer! regards Nicolas
  9. Thanks Chris for the crash-course! For global adjustments (where you're not making a selection) i am doubtful that i wouldn't be able to quickly achieve similar results with Lightroom on your photo. Care to share your raw for a try? Agree on the tutorials where the speaker spends 80% of the time telling you how important what they are going to tell is going to be Cheers Adam i'll give these tutorials a go
  10. hi there, Over the years i progressed in underwater photography techniques, but my editing skills are still very very basic. I came to this realization as i happened to be shown by two experienced photographers on 2 cases how they used Photoshop, this was miles aways from my capabilities with Lightroom! My current capabilities: I have enrolled to an Adobe photo plan, so i am using Lightroom Classic for editing (but i also have the latest Photoshop version in that plan). In Lightroom Classic, besides the basic global adjustments, i have been using spot removal (backscatter), graduated filters, and i am just starting to discover the adjustment brush, using my mouse for approximative selection of area when i want to do local changes. What i'd like to learn: How/when it really is worth jumping to Photoshop. Photoshop's smart tools to easily select a shape (e.g. a fish, a diver) onto you want to make local adjustments (e.g. color adjustmnet, clarity...) without affecting the rest of the image. Smarter/quicker ways to remove Backscatter? To be clear, i don't need the knowledge to "transform" the photo into a really different scene (e.g. adding/removing objects). That is not what i am after, i just want to get more efficient at getting my work "pop out". How? Call me old school, but i still have a preference to learn on a paperbook. I can read few pages when going to bed, etc. That is practical. And i do not have a tablet. That said, if the quickest/best way to learn these skills is a set of videos or something else, i am all ears. So looking for advice on how/where to learn these skills for underwater imagery editing :-) cheers Nico
  11. hi there, With both my wife and myself being underwater photographers, we're finding it best to have a second housing. So here i am, looking to buy a Nauticam housing for our Nikon D750. Please contact me via MP with an offer. cheers Nicolas
  12. hi Delia, We (my wife Lena and myself both shooting) have recently purchased two Retra Pro strobes (last month) to complement our trusty Inon Z240. Overall, the Retras feel reliable (we've done 6 dives with them), the quality of light is really good, and abundance of power is certainly there... but it goes with fast-eating batteries. Which can be understood, just have to realize. Two big plusses from my perspective vs the Inons: 1/ I am not concerned anymore about over-heating/melting the Inons if repetitively shooting (being aware of this risk, i was never shooting the Inons at more than 1/3rd power). 2/ Maintenance of the orings much easier, since they are attached to the cover, very easy to inspect. The strobe reduction accessories are nice too. That being said, we have shot the Inons for 9 years, know them by heart, know exactly how much shots we can get or how quickly they will recycle... We need to build that "intimacy" with the Retras now and it takes time. Surely the transition would have been easier with the Z330s, but hey, we wanted to try something different. You can check our instagram for some photos taken with these (the last shark and eagle rays ones), and i have done a mini-write up (post with multiple shark photos): www.instagram.com/nicolaslenaremy or on Facebook, same username
  13. Thanks both! I just re-added the photo. Will try the boiling water. I really like the shape of the angled Howshot s&s adapter, will be easy to plug/unplug underwater, which is my intent as i will be juggling more strobes in the future.
  14. Great topic guys, really informative! Can i ask for guidance as i am struggling to "bend" my 2.2mm 613 core fibre optic cable (one i purchased from a photo retailer), so that it fits in the S&S adaptor i have (brand is Howshot). See the photo attached. Basically the shape of the groove is too curved for me to succeed in fitting the cable. Reading the above, i was thinking maybe i should first soak the cable into warm water, to make it more flexible. Would that help? I don't want to damage my cable neither :-) On another note, as i have the Nauticam red LED flash trigger, and picky strobes (e.g. the Backscatter MF-1), i need to be wary about cable quality if i am to follow you guys in some experimentation. One question i had: do you think the distance between the end of the cable and the actual "window" whereby the red light comes out of the Nauticam housing matters? I am asking because different Nauticam-to-sea&sea adapters have different heights...
  15. Interesting indeed! Are you able to do the same tests with your Inon z240, and let us know which power setting on the Inon gets you similar exposure without a mask?
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