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Nicool

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Nicool last won the day on June 3

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About Nicool

  • Rank
    Eagle Ray
  • Birthday 02/10/1984

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    https://www.instagram.com/nicolaslenaremy/

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sydney, Australia

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Australia
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D500
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam NA-D500
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Dual Inon Z240 Type IV

Recent Profile Visitors

23118 profile views
  1. And i am interested in arms and clamps Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Ditto! We’re very lucky down here Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Still looking... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Thanks, looks pretty worn out but i’ll inquire Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. hi guys, I am looking to buy a second hand Nauticam flat port, either ref. 18701, or ref. 18702 (the later would be my preference). make me an offer! regards Nicolas
  6. Thanks Chris for the crash-course! For global adjustments (where you're not making a selection) i am doubtful that i wouldn't be able to quickly achieve similar results with Lightroom on your photo. Care to share your raw for a try? Agree on the tutorials where the speaker spends 80% of the time telling you how important what they are going to tell is going to be Cheers Adam i'll give these tutorials a go
  7. hi there, Over the years i progressed in underwater photography techniques, but my editing skills are still very very basic. I came to this realization as i happened to be shown by two experienced photographers on 2 cases how they used Photoshop, this was miles aways from my capabilities with Lightroom! My current capabilities: I have enrolled to an Adobe photo plan, so i am using Lightroom Classic for editing (but i also have the latest Photoshop version in that plan). In Lightroom Classic, besides the basic global adjustments, i have been using spot removal (backscatter), graduated filters, and i am just starting to discover the adjustment brush, using my mouse for approximative selection of area when i want to do local changes. What i'd like to learn: How/when it really is worth jumping to Photoshop. Photoshop's smart tools to easily select a shape (e.g. a fish, a diver) onto you want to make local adjustments (e.g. color adjustmnet, clarity...) without affecting the rest of the image. Smarter/quicker ways to remove Backscatter? To be clear, i don't need the knowledge to "transform" the photo into a really different scene (e.g. adding/removing objects). That is not what i am after, i just want to get more efficient at getting my work "pop out". How? Call me old school, but i still have a preference to learn on a paperbook. I can read few pages when going to bed, etc. That is practical. And i do not have a tablet. That said, if the quickest/best way to learn these skills is a set of videos or something else, i am all ears. So looking for advice on how/where to learn these skills for underwater imagery editing :-) cheers Nico
  8. hi there, With both my wife and myself being underwater photographers, we're finding it best to have a second housing. So here i am, looking to buy a Nauticam housing for our Nikon D750. Please contact me via MP with an offer. cheers Nicolas
  9. hi Delia, We (my wife Lena and myself both shooting) have recently purchased two Retra Pro strobes (last month) to complement our trusty Inon Z240. Overall, the Retras feel reliable (we've done 6 dives with them), the quality of light is really good, and abundance of power is certainly there... but it goes with fast-eating batteries. Which can be understood, just have to realize. Two big plusses from my perspective vs the Inons: 1/ I am not concerned anymore about over-heating/melting the Inons if repetitively shooting (being aware of this risk, i was never shooting the Inons at more than 1/3rd power). 2/ Maintenance of the orings much easier, since they are attached to the cover, very easy to inspect. The strobe reduction accessories are nice too. That being said, we have shot the Inons for 9 years, know them by heart, know exactly how much shots we can get or how quickly they will recycle... We need to build that "intimacy" with the Retras now and it takes time. Surely the transition would have been easier with the Z330s, but hey, we wanted to try something different. You can check our instagram for some photos taken with these (the last shark and eagle rays ones), and i have done a mini-write up (post with multiple shark photos): www.instagram.com/nicolaslenaremy or on Facebook, same username
  10. Thanks both! I just re-added the photo. Will try the boiling water. I really like the shape of the angled Howshot s&s adapter, will be easy to plug/unplug underwater, which is my intent as i will be juggling more strobes in the future.
  11. Great topic guys, really informative! Can i ask for guidance as i am struggling to "bend" my 2.2mm 613 core fibre optic cable (one i purchased from a photo retailer), so that it fits in the S&S adaptor i have (brand is Howshot). See the photo attached. Basically the shape of the groove is too curved for me to succeed in fitting the cable. Reading the above, i was thinking maybe i should first soak the cable into warm water, to make it more flexible. Would that help? I don't want to damage my cable neither :-) On another note, as i have the Nauticam red LED flash trigger, and picky strobes (e.g. the Backscatter MF-1), i need to be wary about cable quality if i am to follow you guys in some experimentation. One question i had: do you think the distance between the end of the cable and the actual "window" whereby the red light comes out of the Nauticam housing matters? I am asking because different Nauticam-to-sea&sea adapters have different heights...
  12. Interesting indeed! Are you able to do the same tests with your Inon z240, and let us know which power setting on the Inon gets you similar exposure without a mask?
  13. Thanks Chris for your replies. I didn't think about the differences in brightness between the center and outside of the strobe beam. However, probably like you, i am indeed aiming the outside of the beam to the subject, to minimize backscatter. To your first question, i only need to take 5-6 photos in a burst (for macro quick action), so it seems like most strobes will cope reasonably well with that. For wide-angle - inquisitive sealions, maybe a full second at lower frequency, so a gain 5-6 shots in total, but with more power, so hopefully the Retra Pro would be able to cope. At least my understanding is i won't have to worry about "melt down" (i would never try repetitive high power shooting with my Inons Z240, too concerned about damaging them). Any further "field" feedback on the Retra pros would be greatly appreciated
  14. Wow i didn't think you could get a nice A2 on 3200 ISO with an APS-C sensor. One day i need to see your large prints physically, bring them down in Oz (so no, i thought 1000 ISOs would be a limit not to overcome to keep decent IQ, as i've also got diffraction happening at these macro apertures) Hi Algwyn, Thanks for your message. Since you're sharing your personal opinion, without factual evidence, can i suggest that you be a little more humble and less prescriptive? First of all, you might have missed this recent scientific study on the effect of flash photography over seahorses. Full details of the research paper are available here. In short, it demonstrates underwater strobes don't have an effect on seahorses, be it on their ability to feed (incl. fast hunting) and no retina damage was found. Secondly, when i shoot 10 fps, it is for a very short burst, i would say half a second, meaning 5-6 photos, set at around 1/16th of my Inon Z240 strobe power (sometimes less). Meaning in that burst, i will deliver less light than by flashing once at half power... Lastly, this species isn't the pygmy seahorse that you find in south east asia, but a Sydney's pygmy pipehorse (Idiotropiscis lumnitzeri). Endemic species to +/-200km around Sydney (Australia). There is a dive site here where local divers have been observing and photographing these animals for many years. Given they are rather sedentary, week after weeks the same divers often see the same individual on the same rock. While being photographed, they have been observed feeding (i.e catching tiny crustaceans) and even courting. These empirical observations are consistent with the findings of the above-mentioned scientific study. Hope we can go back to the original topic - which is about the performances of the new Retra Pro strobes.
  15. Try super macro, with a depth of field probably 1-2mm, and a subject head of around 1cm... and the said subject has a tendency to bounce back and forth in the surge (its tail attached to an algae, the rest of the body swinging around)... while you're struggling against a tidal current... Let's say it brings its set of challenges, and 10fps helps you get one of two sharp shots. EXIFs for the attached example: -Nikon 105mm AF-S VR lens (with Subsee +10 diopter), on a Nikon D500 -Speed: 1/125th -1000 ISOs -f/16 Note the photo is sharp on the eyes, but due to the upload resolution/weight limit it doesn't render well.
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