Jump to content

Nicool

Member
  • Content Count

    394
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

Everything posted by Nicool

  1. hi there, I don't understand why anyone going for a new Nauticam OM-D system with 9-18mm lens would buy the Zen dome instead of the dedicated Nautiscam 4" dome (which also works with the 12-50mm). Plus the first post of this thread also say that they suffer from the same corness sharpness limitations. Any clue?
  2. I think you can do it with a coin, for instance 2 Euros would do, depends on where you live :-)
  3. The image would appear upside down, and I'm not smart enough to frame a picture that way Yeah I saw that one but: -I don't think it can fit the OM-D housing back (due to the partial obstruction of the viewfinder), though I may be wrong. -It still gives you a smaller viewing area, wereas I imagine it cannot rotate (unlike the angled viewfinder), it's only advantage would be the price. cheers Nicolas
  4. Hi OM-D enhusiasts! I did the switch to this very nice camera in Nauticam housing a few weeks ago, and I was using before a Hugyfot D7000 housing with 45 degrees Inon viewfinder (by the way the housing and some lenses/ports are still on sale!). I like many things with my new setup. Especially, I have been impressed with the AF speed on the 60mm lens (seems as fast as my 60mm Nikon on D7000). Inability to shoot from an angle However, I have one disappointment: I really like the ability to shoot from an angle (hence the 45 degrees viewfinder on my previous housing), and I thought I would get a 15 degrees angle since the camera screen is slightly angled up inside the Nauti housing. However, I found that I couldn't really use that 15 degrees angle because: -the standard viewfinder of the housing obstructs a bit your vision. -the back window of the housing quickly starts reflecting outside light when you lift up your head: you cannot see through it. I think this happens partly because the back window is not angled. How to get the shooting angle ability back? The obvious solution would be to get the existing Nauticam 45 degrees viewfinder. -Pros: it seems like a very good angled viewfinder -Cons: a pricey item -Cons makes the rig more bulky -Cons: I am loosing the ability to frame my pictures via a very large, comfortable display: the camera's back LCD, and getting back to the smaller display of a DSLR viewfinder! Optional angled housing back? I guess a better solution for my need would be that Nauticam produces an optional housing back, that integrates an angled window (15 degrees, or even 30 or 45 degrees => with an updated camera tray to support that angle), without a viewfinder (use case is to shoot via the big LCD screen, so let's save on the viewfinder/make the display clearer!). What do you think about the feasibility/interest of such an optional housing back? I don't know if Nauticam read this forum, maybe I will just drop them an email. I think some experienced DSLR photographers are just happy with the 45 degres optical viewfinder, but I am thinking a bunch of people could be interested in such an accessory, especially those upgrading from point & shoot. Furthermore, several housing brands now offer housings for external LCD monitors, so there's a market for that, and I am just suggesting a more efficient solution: take advantage of the in-camera LCD monitor. WDYT? cheers Nicolas
  5. Try to do as many training as possible, even in pool like Steve suggested, working on finding small subjects in the vewfinder. It took me a few dives of frustration, but then I really liked the extra flexibility of an angled viewfinder, it really improved my pictures!
  6. Thanks for the analogy :-) I thought I read somewhere else that one benefit of depressurizing your housing was lower chances of condensation (compared to the same housing staying at 1 bar), guess I was wrong.
  7. And my part of curiosity as well: are you guys saying that condensation is more likely to occur when ambiant pressure is lower?
  8. thanks both for the explanations, /0:-)
  9. Hi folks, I've judt used my Nauticam OM-D housing for the first time yesterday, with 12-50mm and austrian zoom gear, all in the macro port. I was thinking that I could reach the macro mode's max magnification by zooming at 43mm, but it seems i didn't: couln't get close enough to make them big enough. Question then: does the "macro" mode of the 12-50 lens do anything else than zooming at 43mm? I thought it was just a matter of focal, but maybe I am wrong. Cheers Nicolas
  10. errrr... the o-ring of your housing pops when you open it? Don't you release the pressure before opening the housing?
  11. Hi Nudibranco, I must say I forgot that post: at the time I read it I wasn't thinking about dome options then... For those who want the answer, it's earlier in this thread, see posts 297 (http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=46536&page=15&do=findComment&comment=322488) to 310 basically.
  12. Extra question on the dome choices for the Panasonic 8mm fisheye. If I go for this lens it would be for its capability to focus super close (provided I manage to get close to my subjects! ). In the charts of nauticam.com, they mention 2 domes options: 1/ The 4.33 " 2/ The upcoming 3.5" In this thread, I read Coroander saying that the 4.33" dome already allows reaching the lens' minimal focus distance underwater. So what could be the advantages of the 3.5" dome?
  13. Hi, I have used both 12-24 & 10-24 on D300, and much prefer the 10-24, due to its wider angle of shooting, and most importantly its closer focus (I also enjoy this top-side). The 10-17 is interesting too, provided you can get close enough to your subjects. Personally I didn't find myself limited by the 10-24, but maybe because I am not experienced enough to enjoy the benefits of the 10-17 (i.e. to be close enough to subjects).
  14. You can also use the custom fit leak sentinel from Vividhousing: http://www.vividhousings.com/leak-sentinel.php I got good email exchanges with the maker, and it's a tiny smart system that provides LED feedback. Also, he gave me shots of it attached to the Nauticam OM-D housing. All this for only 200 EUR (rated to 60m depth). Question is: will the Nauticam solution bring something much better?
  15. Any idea on the availability date and price?
  16. Thanks for the answer Bill, very very interesting :-) So you would deliberately create a path for air to flow in the nikonos sync plug, to ultimately mate itsafer because tighter. I moved to optical fibers after my electronic cable unscrewed itself in the rinse tank, causing me the lost of my cable and of the bulkhead, but I must admit that I like better electronic sync (I do ttl, so optical fibers take a lot on the camera battery). I sent you an emai with some questions on friday about using your sentry on my future Nauticam OM-D housing. On that one there's a single bulkhead (aimed at Electrical strobe connection), so I assume that I would need a separate hole to be drilled for thensentry if I want to use your nikonos plug accessory? By the way did you or anybody develop a vaccuum check system for pricey strobes (I am thinking of my 2 Inon Z240 type 4)? cheers Nicolas
  17. I am also thinking that vaccuum checks are a must for underwater photographers (I have one in my Hugyfot D7000 housing and it brought peace of mind that I didn't have before while diving. Someone suggested that it would be useful on strobes too. Indeed, I wouldn't mind having one on each of mine Inon Z240 type IV, these are expensive toys too. Xan anyone comment on the feasibility to do it on strobes? By the way, would a vaccuum check system also secure the Nikonos 5-pin connector on housing side? The question may be stupid, I have no idea if how the barrier between water and inside housing is made on nikonos connectors.
  18. Hi folks, There seems to be two main lens options for rectilinear ultra-wide (weitwinkel) angle (so no fisheye) in the micro four-thirds galaxy: Panasonic 7-14mm and Olympus 9-18mm. Which one is best? In case the answers are "it dependsish", I would look at the following scenario: Camera = Olympus OM-D EM5. Things that matter (for me): -Sharpness -Image quality in general (I read on DPreview that the 7-14 Pana's cromatic aberrations were discarded by in-camera software on Pana cameras, but not on Oly ones, is that an issue underwater?) -Good for Close Focus Wide Angle. -Fast AF thanks in advance for sharing your thoughts & experience :-) Nicolas
  19. Hi! For what it's worth, I have been leaving my Hugyfot D7000 housing closed and ready to dive for more than 2 weeks. Reason is simple: I usually dive once a week, and if I shoot the same configuration, why going through the hassle of opening/closing? I just put the housing in a freshwater tank for a few hours when going back from the dive. This has the drawback of preventing pictures download, but it saves me time!
  20. HI guys, Not sure it's worth a new thread, bud did anyone try to do some nice sunball shots with the OM-D? In his excellent review, Dr Mustard said he didn't have enough time to properly evaluate dynamic range, and I see DxOMark ranks it 1.6 Evs below D7000 (12.3 vs 13.9), hence my question.
  21. Hello Wetpixel! I thought I would post a dedicated thread for this discussion, rather than getting it lost in existing OM-D threads. In those threads I've read that image quality was good when using wet dioptres (Subsee) on top of the Olympus 12-50mm lens underwater (as the nauticam 60mm port has a 67mm thread). This brings a lot of versatility on this 12-50mm setup, and I was wondering why wouldn't size-conscious photographers use wide angle wet lenses on top of this setup? I must say I've never used any wet lens, so I may miss something, that's why I'm asking. I think it was Dr Mustard who said optical quality remained good with a wet complement like Subsee diopters, what about the wide angle complements? thanks for your advice, cheers Nicolas
  22. Hi Waterboy, As a freediver, I imagine you move a lot underwater, especially with whales around. Would it be better if you increased a bit the shutter speed? I'm thinking that 1/200th might not be enough. cheers Nicolas
  23. And what about the ability to limit the focus range via the camera's menus (rather than a switch located on the lens itself, ref. the 60mm). I'd love that!
×
×
  • Create New...