Nicool

Beautiful shots, congrats! My big favourite is number 4, it's such a portrait? Was it one you took with the 10-17 (if you don't mind me asking)?

I've finally found the Holy Graal: if anyone else is struggling with Inon userguides, just have a look at this great tutorial from ReefPhoto: http://reefphoto.com/tt/index.php?action=kb&article=7 Well done guys!

Website up again! http://www.tapatalk.com/ So the application exists already, but I believe indeed that some development might be needed on the Forum side, to comply with the App requirements. I've used it quite a bit to talk on YorkshireDivers forum, and it's really, really cool. If our beloved Wetpixel could become compatible one day... well, maybe be I'd have no more social life

OK, that was my understanding too.

Tim, I envy you. I'm currently struggling to understand how my new Z240s work, and even if my manual were in japanese, it wouldn't have been worse thant the english versions! If one day you feel like publishing a tutorial, or if you or anyone knows a nice tutorial to explain how these flashes work, I'd be very happy to read it. Before a few wetpixel searches, I wasn't even sure that my Nikon D7000 (Hugyfot housing) would be able to trigger S-TTL optically! I have browsed both manuals and Inon website without any clear information on that!!

Hi Dave, I also have just received 2 Z240, and suffered trying to understand how to use S-TTL with fiber optics (creepy manual...). You're suggesting to setup the D300's flash to 1/125th of its power when using the strobes in S-TTL mode. I don't understand: if you restrict the power of the internal flash to its minimum, how could the camera shoot several pre-flashes at different powers (to assess the amount of light needed), and finally tell the Z240s which is the power to use for final exposure?

Up! Anyone else interested?

Lol! The sunball is pretty nice.

Thanks Olly! Cool to hear these nice animals will be so numerous there :-) The 1.4 converter would be an additional item on an - already - too long shopping list, so I'll probably stick with the 10-24, with a similar angle of view I think.

Thanks Drew! It is true that my closest approach to a turtle was a slow and peaceful one, and above all, the turtle was busy having lunch! I hadn't considered a trans-standard zoom lens, but why not! If you're comfortable with that, it is likely that fisheye would be too much. A deep blue background is definitely something that I'd be looking for. A nice sunball on the back of a diving turtle would please me too

yeah you're right, and I seriously doubt that it's uncompressible... At least the shock protection remains a valid point for me: I regularly do shore dives where the exit point is quite rocky.

Hi guys, I've read a very interesting thread about Mandarin fish photography, with clearly expert advise, but I couldn't find something similar for sea turtles photography. Maybe you all find this too easy? Jokes apart, I'm planning a trip to Sipadan in october, where apparently I'll have plenty of occasions to photograph one of my favourite animals: sea turtles. Honestly I haven't been too lucky in my previous dive-trips turtle-wise (except once... beautiful animal eating soft coral with a nice blue background, but one of my housing's buttons got sticked, blocking the whole camera...). Anyway! I am also in the process of changing my whole underwater photography gear, probably going to a Hugyfot D7000 + Inon Z240 strobes. I believe that I'll be much more likely to get a nice turtle shot if I have thoroughly prepared myself before. My best shots are the ones that I had thought and thought, and visualized in advance. So I'm opening this thread to ask you about: -Gear to use? I have a 10-24 Nikon already, wondering if a Tokina 10-17mm would be better, maybe too wide? -Approach technique? -Best time of the day? -Things to avoid? Can it be a nuisance to photograph mating turtles? I have also heard that night shots must be avoided, as an awaken turtle would go to the surface for air, and wouldn't be able to find another sleeping spot in the middle of the night. -Any advise, any experience you'd feel like sharing thanks and have a great week-end! Nicolas

I'm considering the purchase of these for an additional reason: increase buoyancy. If I move forward with this purchase, I'll post a feedback here.

thanks Adam! It'll help me to wait

Hi there, Any news on Wetpixel's comparison of the various D7000 housings? I'm looking forward to read

Hi Wetpixel team, I was wondering if you've considered making Wetpixel forum compatible with one of the mobile applications, which would allow easy access from our beloved mobile phones (iPhones, Androïde phones...)? For example, Tapatalk (http://www.tapatalk.com/) looks like a nice solution. It would not only benefit big travellers, but any member who enjoys browsing when time permits but computers are far. What do you think? cheers Nicolas

Hi Eefella, I'm bringing back this old post, but I've seen you mentioned diving up to 100m below sea surface, which is the maximum depth of the Hugyfot housing I believe. However, I understand that using the hugycheck reduces the maximum depth allowed (because for a constant depth, the difference of pressure is greater). Did you use the hugycheck before going to -100m? Any crack on your housing?

More details: they've been searching for coelacanth in this particular place (along the cost of Sodwana) because a diver (the skipper of the boat) saw a coelacanth when exploring these caves at -115m, on 2001 or so. In the following years, 3 divers tried to go and see the coelacanths, but they died in the process. Then, Laurent set up his successful project, I believe it was in 2010. FYI, Laurent Ballesta is an experienced deep diver, who also shot the deepest SCUBA underwater picture in 2008, it was -192m in Nice, France.

Hi there, I believe there is no post on wetpixel about that great video, showing Laurent Ballesta, french underwater photographer, taking pictures of live coelacanths (-115m, South Africa). You can see an amazing movie here: http://videos.tf1.fr/ushuaia-nature/aventu...ue-6197545.html (it's between 15min and 30min I believe). I hope there is no problem with me sharing this link on wetpixel, it's the official webpage of the TV program. I guess we'll see Laurent's picture among the winners of some photo contests in 2011

Hi Tim, Indeed I've found that Mabul Water Bungalow was more expensive. Anyway I've booked Kapalai, will let you know my thoughts in one yeqr time ;-)

Hi there! I'm planning some dives in Sipadan (first time for my wife and I) in October 2011, and I'm in the process of choosing a resort. The Mabul resort looks nice, but really too expensive for me. So I'm considering Kapalai and Sipadan Water Village (SWV). Both resorts offer 3 boat dives per day, and unlimited shore dives (even night dives included at Kapalai). This shore dive option is really appealing to me, so I would like to know which of these resorts offers the best reef for unlimited shore dives. Needless to say, we're both enthusiast photographers :-) And I like the idea of having time to visit and re-visit the same reef, be able to locate nice spots, and be back at the right time, etc. Could you guys help me with your experiences? I've seen several posts discussing those resorts, but not really focussing on how local reefs compare. thanks in advance for your advice, have great dives! Cheers, Nicolas

I also wonder what if you set your internal flash to master, but not to light. In that case, I guess you'll have TTL, but not much recycle time since your internal flash is not supposed to provide a lot of light. Though I don't know Nikon's TTL protocol, maybe 'SHOOT STRONG' means a strong pre-fash?

Hi jcclink Did you tired CL/CH modes having set the internal trobe to 1/100th of its power? In such conditions I would assume a very short recycle time... cheers

Hi all, I've received my Fisheye FIX 500DX, and I'd like to share my feedback: in a word, it's excellent! The power of this light is more than enough, and the ability to fine tune the amount of light shot is just excellent. Plus, they offer a handy system to switch colored filters underwater, and the red filter is just awesome for final approach before picutre. I saw no color impact on the picture. cheers,

Hi all, I've just returned from a 1-week liveaboard in the Red Sea, and this time I've opened my housing only when the battery needed a replacement, which is roughly every 8 dives (2 days without touching main o-rings!). This is because: -I've kept the same WA lens. -I took the risk to work with a single CF card (16 GB), which had always enough space. In addition, every 3-4 dives I took the housing back to my room to replace strobes batteries, and then I systematically did maintenance for the strobes o-rings. I've never touched the TTL sync cord during the whole week, but... At the end of the trip (last dive fortunately), my TTL sync cord + housing circuitry got flooded (it's dead corroded now), and I've just realized it because the strobes started firing erratically. The screw of the cord got loose, which I didn't think could happen, but reading some of the guys above comments, I now know that I'll double-check the cord before each dive. Between dives and at night, my housing remained in the freshwater tub, because there was no camera table, and my cabin was quite far. Well, next time I'll make the effort to take the housing back to my cabin after each dive. I hope my experience will help others to avoid the same. Cheers, Nicolas