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Everything posted by Nicool

  1. PM sent hoping you have some left - we're almost neighbours (i am based in Sydney)
  2. Will do for sure, so many missed wide angle opportunities in the last dive [emoji31] I have stopped using TTL for 2+ years so this ACCS thingy is really not doing me any good. Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
  3. Thanks makar0n!The strobe is now gone for servicing, but are you saying that you did get varying power outputs (not only very low power) due to your ACCS issue? I reckon when ACCS is depressed it would just give me a very low constant output. Anyways, thanks for your advice which i’ll use next time, i just hope my strobe returns on time for some action-packed weekend trips which i have scheduled shortly :-) I wish there were no ACCS button on thee strobes, it caused problems to so many people!
  4. Phil your swimmer crab photo is gorgeous, i love its ninja style pose
  5. Thanks Liz for Steve ´s details. Undertow, ok i understand now, yes it makes sense. Diggy, yes i agree this is a possible issue, but i do see the strobe producing varying amounts of lights so to me there is no ACCS issue. Regardless, i’ll get it serviced due to the tubes looking damaged, and i don’t want to take chaces with 2 upcoming trips. Cheers Nicolas Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
  6. Thanks for the tip Liz. My faulty strobe's tubes don't look brown, however its tubes look like a bit of dirt is inside, say they are certainly not as clear as the ones on the good strobe, so i may have an issue there. What's Steve's website / contact details? I coulnd't find on google. Yes could be, with more tests and after swapping batteries, i can see my faulty strobe has about 1 eV or so less output than the good one. Thanks for the extra contact details Chris, really appreciated! I'll ping these guys. Yes no built in flash on the D500, though i believe i definitely have an issue, not getting same light output from the strobes at same power output. cheers Nicolas
  7. Thanks for this ChrisYes i'll give a try at swapping batteries but i believe that, even if batteries are weak on 1 strobe, that strobe should be able to maintain it's normal output - or just not show the ready light. I can't test TTL with my housing: manual only. Thanks for the recommendation on Dive 2000, although looking at Inon website it seems their only service center in Australia is seaoptics.com.au (located in SA), unless Inon didn't updatef their site? Cheers Nicolas
  8. hi guys, Reading at the issues experienced by others on some Inon Z240 type IV strobes, i was glad not to have experienced any problem with my 2 strobes bought in 2011. However during today's dive i noticed straight away that my left strobe wasn't producing as much light as the right one I trigger these strobes in manual mode both on same power, using Nauticam fiber optics, Nauticam housing on Nikon D500. I've done a number of tests after rincing the housing on dry land: -swapped the fiber optics, no change -changed the flash output settings, i.e. starting with both at EV-2 and then EV-4 -> my left strobe still was noticeably less powerful -and of course, i had made sure each time the pre-flash button was fully engaged To make sure i wasn't getting tricked by what i was shootting at, i just aimed my camera to a white wall, shot subsequently with left and then right flash, could clearly see the shift in the histograms/ This looks like my left strobe has just become overall less powerful, very strange! I had just changed batteries before that dive so i am wondering if it could explain the problem, but i do wait for the strobe's red ready light to turn on before i shoot. My question to the community: does anyone know what could be the cause of my issue? Any way to fix it myself? If it requires repair, does anyone have an idea of how long and how costly such a repair can be (i am in Sydney, Australia). thanks and merry Xmas to all! Nicolas
  9. I am curious as to why you've burned so many Z240s, cave diving isn't much of an action-loaded photography type i'd imagine?I've been using the same pair of Z240s over last 6 years without any issue (2500-3000 shots per year i'd say), maybe i've just been lucky?
  10. Hi, I've been using various systems over 4 housings: hugyfot (on D7000 housing), then leak sentinel (v2 or 3, can't remember) on Nauticam EM5 housing, then backscatter simple airlock on same housing, then on nauticà D300s housing, then Nauticam's latest system on Nauticam D500 housing. I've had various issues with the leak sentinel, like wrong orings delivered (things happen, why not) but then the leak sentinel flooded. I suppose user error, but to me not great design (which certainly has been improved since then). However i looooved my backscatter airlock (basic version with manual pump and no led). It seems it can't go wrong, i even forgot the cap once and nothing flooded. I am now using the nauticam electronic one (i still like the led, even if i am telling myself it's totally unnecessary) but i contemplate adding the backscatter one in another port of my housing, just for redundancy. Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
  11. Sorry memory confusion: i didn't get this reply from Zen but from Reef Photo, and it didn't seem like a black&white answer but more a word of caution: Quoting Reef: Nauticam grease is safe on the new Zen lighter blue o-rings, but I would recommend using the true Sea & Sea grease on the dark blue o-rings.
  12. To complement: some zen domes had been sold with sea & sea dark blue orings which are not good with nauti grease. In fact i've asked after buying a used zen dome, and been told by i think zen themselves to buy their newly produced light blue orings which are for sure compatible with nauticam gear. I did son 1 year ago and didn't have any issue. Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
  13. Hi Jack, actually the nauti gear slipped because the sections of the tokina lens didn't hold together: it was the bottom part of the rotating tokina bit which disengaged, and the nauti gear with it. So i got just same fix you it seems Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
  14. And my bonus question: any plan for a smaller WACP for APSC dslrs like the D500 or 7D serie? Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
  15. Hi guys, problem solved! Thanks again for the various feedbacks since i posted my original question. I must say i didn't fill like drilling on my lens, but i've just found, tested and validated another approach which i am happy to share: basically i've used gaffer tape to hold the two rings on the lens which used to separate and cause the zoom gear to disengage while diving (those which sit below the rubber ring which needs to be taken off to install the nauti gear). Of course the gaffer tape comes too wide but it's easy to cut to the right width. See attached a photo of how it looks like before i re-attached the nauticam zoom gear. In fact it added too much diameter to the lens and the nauti gear wouldn't fit. So i have taken it off, shorten it out of 2 parts say 4cm length each, and attached them on 2 opposite sides of the lens. This way the nauti zoom gear could fit and the lens still doesn't move. I am very happy of such an easy fix! Cheers Nicolas Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk See photo Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
  16. Thanks Larry very interesting!Have you bought such equipment for the 10-17mm tokina specifically?
  17. Appreciated TimG! When i am back home i'll see what i can find which will help without damaging the exposed inside lens part
  18. Hi there, I am facing issues with the way my Nauticam zoom ring attaches onto my Tokina 10-17mm fisheye zoom lens. This is the Nikon mount version, which i use with a D500 inside a Nauticam housing. I know i am not the only one facing those issues and i have read though multiple threads (there, for instance) but they're all 4+ years old so i am writing hoping new solutions are available now. I've followed the manual by removing the rubber ring which was attached to the Tokina lens (then some electronic circuitry becomes visible, whooo scary...) and put the Tokina zoom ring onto it. What happens is that it doesn't fit very snuggily: -when i attach the lens to the camera when opening the housing front port (e.g. when i am swapping lenses) i have to be extremely careful on the positioning otherwise the zoom gear starts popping off. -same when i am just opening the housing back to change camera battery: at the time i slide the camera out/in it's very diffcult to avoid the zoom gear being disengaged. -worst of all: while i am shooting the zoom gear may just disengage on its own and then i am stuck with a given focal till i open the housing. This happened 4-5 times to me in maybe 30 dives. I have used several housing brands with different zoom gear solutions (Ikelite, Hugyfot, Nauticam M4/3 and then Nauticam DSLR), and i had used a different zoom gear for same lens model (not exact same lens though), which was the Hugyfot one which didn't require me to remove the lens' own rubber zoom ring. I feel this was a better design. So my question is: have Nauticam or a third party manufacturer come with zoom gear solution that would fit snuggier on my lens when used in my Nikon D500 Nauticam housing? If not, would anyone have a suggestion to circumvent the issues i am having? regards Nicolas
  19. So true! I find the Chinese border agents much more friendly by the way... Not trying to troll ;-)
  20. Thanks for the report donboka. I have fortunately bought 2 inon strobes in 2011 and never stopped shooting them since then. Never any issue, and i must confess i haven't sent them for servicing, as i don't know what would be the purpose (i manipulate the knobs in rinse tank and they never block). Looking at the S&S specs i got interested somehow, but i am glad you cleared my doubts.
  21. Nice catch (to you & to the crab :-)) Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
  22. When i bought my D500 (upgrading from D300s) it was mostly the AF capabilities in low light which drove me. It's a pity that the reputable photo magazines i read are not assessing these capabilities. In fact, their test benches for AF ability to track subject is definitely used with good ambient lighting, and fails to spot differences between recent cameras. Then one has to trust camera specs, which say D500 focuses in darker environments than D7200. For my photography this is very useful, esp when shooting below rocks where i can barely see but i noticed focus light (even red light) does disturb subject. The D500 amazes me with shots i succeed in those conditions, and i just know by the specs that D7200 wouldn't succeed in as manu shots. How big is the difference, that i don't know :-/
  23. You have a point!But does Instagram have the same artistic focus as Flickr? I mean, what are most people sharing or looking for on Instagram? At least it's my impression that on Flickr most users like photography for itself and would post less "photo of that nice pasta dish i had at lunch" or "my kitten sleeping". It's good to have larger potential audience, except if you're diluted in the kind of photos i am referring to. For instance on facebook i may post photo of that good glass on beer, but never on Flickr where i stick to underwater photos which i am happy about. Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
  24. Could anyone explain how different instagram is from flickr, or maybe complementary? As Adam puts it Instagram is a social media for image maker, but so is flickr, isn't it? I have started sharing uw photos on social media only recently (flickr), and have established a workflow of export to flickr straight from lightroom, then posting links to flickr on facebook for non-diving friends. I am wondering also how instagram could fit there. Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
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