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thani

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thani last won the day on July 27

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About thani

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    Sting Ray
  • Birthday 12/11/1965

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    Dubai, UAE
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    Water

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  1. I hope this input is not too late to accommodate in your test. I believe It is important to have a reference color to ensure that your WB is done correctly. You could use any reference chart or object (with the most dominant colors: Red, Blue, Green). Earlier I used 3 small cut outs of foam with lead attached. Now, I am using the Xrite Passport video color checker. It has a gray card and a focus card as well. It can last 3-5 years with good care. Now they even have a nano version and there are alternatives in the market. I used the color checker for my Davinci Resolve workflow. It can get you to a good start for color correction. The other point is to try to do a manual WB without a red filter. Red filter can take away about 2 fstops. With lights you really don’t need a red filter in my opinion cause the artificial light should bring the colors back as far as the lights can go. If you are trying red filter to bring the colors beyond the reach out of the light, it is a different story and quite complicated hence you need to attach blue filters to your lights. I do not trust the Kelvin rating of lights manufacturers usually - that’s why manual WB is needed. You need to try the MWB at a greater depth like 30m in addition to the depths you mentioned. Here is a link I on the color checker subject - you’ll find a link on the top of the page: Regards, Thani
  2. It makes sense, I will remove the neck straps and let you know the findings
  3. you beat me to it. I was about to post the link :} With 12 bit RAW recovering details in the shadows or highlight is much more possible than the good GH5. Cause even the10 bit at 400mbs the GH5/s cant compete with BMPCC6K. 6k should give better options for reframing/cropping as well. And as you mentioned, the 60 fps at high resolution is a great plus. The WACP looks great if one can afford it. With my past experience with BM color science, RAW and HDR, this setup up is hard to beat. I am contemplating but my GH5s is good enough for now. Isn’t it?
  4. the panasonic Leica 12-60 is my dominant lens. I really like everything about it. I used to shoot mostly 16mm FF equivalent due to bad vis in out country and my interest in shooting reef/week structure. But shooting small to medium fish portraits and behaviors with the 16mm is quite challenging cause you need to get very close to the subject which usually scares them away. My dive buddy always shoots around 24mm and he would have the best story to tell about the sea creatures than I. I was wondering why but then I discovered the secret: 24mm FF eq. The Leica 12-60 is a very good lens in all aspects. And one more thing: once zoomed all the way you can get very good closeups (magnification of 0.3x)
  5. Yes I use a screw on the lens type and on the Panasonic Leica 12-60mm f2.8-4. And I agree with you it works nicely in both blue and green water. Even in shallow water the combo GH5s/URPRO white balances nicely with no reddish no red color cast.
  6. With my GH5s I shoot mostly without light down to 30m+ (our 30m because of the thermocline and bad visibility is like 50m+ in other seas). I am quite happy with the URPRO red (orangish) filter. From my experience they produce better color rendition than the Auto-magic red filter. Auto-magic appear more reddish than the URPRO filter. http://www.urprofilters.com/productDetails.do?productID=1&categoryID=1
  7. Thank you. Deepshots looks good. You’ve mentioned you do not use autofocus anymore in another thread, do you rely on the manual focus button on the GH5 or do you use the focus gear all the time?
  8. Is there an alternative lens gear to Nauticam? I came a cross Deepshots on the net. They only have a zoom gear for the panasonic leica 8-18mm. Any experience or advise is appreciated.
  9. you are absolutely correct but sometimes the breathing ads a dramatic effect and rarely there is a sound from the reef and it’s creatures. I am getting a continuous rattling/knocking sound a long with my recorded breathing. Are you guys getting clear sound?
  10. Hi, The quality of recoded audio through Nauticam housing is not good. What is a good setup/configuration on the GH5 to help improve the audio recoding?
  11. Recent underwater footage: https://youtu.be/pwWHSzaexjc
  12. Video length is always a concern for most of us. If you are publishing to uknown audience (web, YouTube, etc...) keep it to as short as possible as Pajjpen mentioned above. One idea I was flirting with is to have a main long video to to tell the whole story for 5-10min for example and other mini clips 1-3 min to show a single fish/creature in action. In the main long video the single clip about the creature will be in shown in for few seconds only. Of course, you need include only the absolute must show clips (the winning clips). To help short list the winning clips good workflow is to start selections process as early as possible and preferably on the same day cause the shots are still in your head. Another helping tip is not to shoot just anything that moves underwater cause you have ample storage and battery life, this will help you minimize the number clips. Some good cinematographer try to plan the shots as much as possible and yes one has to improvise in our case a lot. Compile the clips into the main video through rough edits/cuts (no edit, no color correction at all) to ensure you story is achievable within the time limit you sat. Only then start your color correction process. Whatever workflow you choose, one can not emphasize enough on good lighting and white balance to help get the correct colors and thus saving tedious color correction work. For those who already familiar with the above, please forgive me for the long message.
  13. Are you shooting with lights? If you are shooting with lights and manually white balance, then you should get good color rendition without red filter.
  14. I actually broke the power switch of my GH5s in the same Nauticam housing. It happened while I was surfacing from the dive. I tried to turn off the camera but it wouldn’t turn off. I guess I rotated the on/off dial of housing in the wrong direction with enough force and managed to break it ( too much nitrogen to handle ). It is a user error but I believe Nauticam can prevent this by putting stoppers on both side of the switch to prevent over rotation in either direction. We need to send them such feedback. Another error I find myself doing cause I’m a casual user is when inserting and removing the camera in the housing. The on/off switch needs to be raised like bubffm pointed out previously. BTW, the button is a metal/alloy and not plastic. The service center in my country replaced it for free cause my warranty was valid. (great service). According to them, the full top part of the camera that holds the top switches including on/off had to be replaced.
  15. The GH5s has auto ISO with min and max setting. I find it to be a good tool. But with the a cinema camera you need to think/setup differently.
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