Jump to content

RBernardo

Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    97

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by RBernardo

  6. Posted

    Hi Rob, thank for your anwser

     

    I begin to think that there may be a misalignment between the support of the camera inside the housing and the camera lens axis in relation to the dome...

     

    because your photos, with the 6'' dome looks fine to me..

    kind regards

  7. Posted

    Wow! very nice Mr Flecther!!!!

     

    i Have a 8'' dome and this solution is not perfet. The subal website gives another solution, wich is not suitable also.....

    I know that i have to buy a bigger dome, but should not work right with a 8'' dome?

     

    kind regards

  8. Posted

    Thx for the reply Dr Alex,

    i also use a 6'' Dome and i also have the distortion in the corners. the question is, in fx mode should only use a bigger dome then the dome of 6''?

    in subal web site the information should not be correct?

     

    other subal users with this combo what extension rings are using?

     

     

    kind regards

     

    Rui

  9. Posted

    Hello,

     

    what port combination should i use with Nikon D800+Sigma 15mm?
    In the Subal website, the port combination says DP-100+exr15, but combo doens't work, Only with the DP100 also distorts the image in the corners.

     

    What combination should i use then?

     

    kind regards

    thx in advance

     

    Rui

     

  13. Posted

    Hello, i am selling my underwater Nauticam housing for Nikon D800, i include a pair of handle brackets, and a pair of mounting adapter for inon ball, a ball mouting strobe and two fiber optic cables for inons z-240, for 3000€, the housing is like new, 10 dives, in Portugal

     

     

    i can send pictures of the housing

  16. Posted

    Hello,

    i am lucky, i already try this new SAGA snoot.

    I can say is very good. To point, there are no better. I recieved mine yesterday, tested in the pool..., i believed that is the best snoot in the market.

    And the most important thing is that i use INON, as you all know, the pilot light is not the center ..., very happy with the fist tests

     

    kind regards

     

    RB

  20. Posted

    Hallo Rui,

    I bought mine about 5 years ago directly from HW. I am using two type 2 Z-240s, the type shouldn't matter. Do you use a Y-cable? Another test: if your flashes are off or the board is not connected you should see in the viewer the green flash symbol flashing. After switching on one or both of the flashes the flash symbol is on continuously. This tells you that the camera recognizes a TTL flash. If not, something is broken.

     

    Best regards,

    Wolfram

     

    Hello again Wolfram,

    i do not use a Y cable, my housing (Patima) have two bulkheads, i use two simple cable, but i also have a Y cable, and i did not had that test, but i will do it...

     

    let me see if i understand what you are saying..., if i had my strobe not connected to the board, and then i connect them (one or boht?) i shoulf see a green light flashing? the light i see is a red one flashing, not green

    even when i replace the batery,a few days ago, the red light flashes for a second or so.., but its red not green. Is this a sign of someting broken?

     

    i am very grateful for the help

     

    Kind regards

     

    RB

  22. Posted

    Hi Rui,

    I am using the OEM converter Mk. 1 with the D7000 and before used it with the D80. It works just fine with both cameras and two Z 240s using a Y-cable. Check if your cables are correctly connected. You need ground, trigger and quench between the camera and the board (pin 5 = ground, 1 = trigger, 4 = quench) and the board and the strobe (G, T, Q). Also check that the little potentiometer on the board is not in M = manual position! The board should be OK if the little green LED is flashing from time to time. I once fried one board with one drop of water. HM replaced it free of charge, which I think is a great service.

     

    Best regards,

    Wolfram

     

    www.reefcolors.com

     

     

    Hello,

     

    let me tell you, you are a luky guy!...., my board works fine with two inon z-240 type 3, but does not work with two inon's z-240 (type 2+type 3) and the answer that i had from "HM" was that one above........

     

    i think that i will replace my ttl system for optical, for sure more reliable then HeinrichsWeikamp OEM TTL converter... (not need assistance from the manufacturer)

     

    thanks any way....

     

    Kind regards

     

    RB

  24. Posted

    Yes, i do have the manual, i check all the connections, one guy from HeinrichsWeikamp, (Manfred Priest) told me to check all the connections, i have a diagram of the connections and its all ok.

     

    the thing is, if i connect only one strobe (type 3) it works, and i try in two bulkheads, as soon as i connect the strobe type 2, the ttl stop working.

     

    i have another housing, a subal nd300 with a different board (MKIII) and the same strobe works just fine!, but with the board MKI don't work and i do not understand what i am doing wrong...

    kind regards

     

    RB

×
×
  • Create New...