Jump to content

GHP

Member
  • Content Count

    42
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About GHP

  • Rank
    Triggerfish
  • Birthday 08/19/1960

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    London, UK

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United Kingdom
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D70
  • Camera Housing
    Ikelite TTL
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    2XNikonos SB-105
  • Accessories
    ULCS arms
  1. Price dropped to £1100 before it goes on eBay?
  2. Price dropped to £1,200, plus pics added. ">Full outfit ">1 of the Nikonos 105 strobes A great set of gear, along with a few other odds and ends, including a double synch cable, magic filters, and spare new seals, sealant etc. All you need to get going, apart from a dslr body. (Nikon D70 sell on ebay for around £70-£100)
  3. Hi All, I am selling my Ikelite housing for a Nikon D70. It is the TTL version, and comes complete with 2 ports. 1 x port for 105mm, with focusing gear, and 1 x 6" dome port, complete with focus and zoom gear for the 12-24mm. Also included are 2 x Nikonos Sb105 strobes, and a dual sync cable, and 2 x Ultralight arms. Also a few other bits and bobs, (Magic filters etc) will be included. Never been flooded, all in excellent condition. I will get some pics up later, but wanted to post this now, so at least it's on here. Asking price of £1,250 (GBP), or realistic best offer. Shipping included to UK mainland, otherwise at cost to anywhere else worldwide.(I am in UK) Thanks for looking, Gary.
  4. I have a complete Ikelite system for a Nikon D70. Comes with D70 ttl housing, small dome port, 105 port,12-24 focus gear, 2xNikonos Strobes, 2 x ultralight arms. A great complete setup, although I am keeping the D70 (these are cheap enough on ebay) if you are interested? If so, PM me for more details. I am going to put it on the classifieds here, but saw your post and thought you can have first dibs if you want. Cheers, Gary.
  5. I am also looking at the moment. I recently contacted these people: http://www.scubasure.com/index.php SCUBASURE With this company,(UK based) you don't have to insure your dive gear to qualify, although you can if you want. For £5000 of cover the cost is £184. I didnt think this was too bad. I rang them to ask a few questions, and spoke to some-one called Charlotte, who was incredibly helpful. I asked about being on a live-aboard and not being able to get flooded gear checked straight away, and was told no problem, as soon as you get back to land is OK. Also I asked about washed overboard, and again was told that was covered, including dropping it when handing up to boat operator. There is a quick premium calculator on the site too. I think I am going to give them a try, unless some-one knows of a good reason not to?
  6. Hi ck. Welcome to Wetpixel. I am no expert, but here are my thoughts. TTL/iTTL stands for Through The Lens. It simply means that the camera uses a method of measuring the actual light coming through the lens and adjusts the exposure automatically to give the required exposure combination of shutter speed and aperture to give a correctly exposed picture. When using flash, the same thing happens, but the camera fires the flashes briefly for a "preflash", then measures the light reflected off the subject, and then fires the flash at the appropriate power to achieve a correct exposure. What is so great? Well, it means that you dont have to do any calculations or alter settings, instead, the camera does all the working out for you. HOWEVER, it also takes away any input from you, the photographer, and gives you what IT thinks is the correct exposure. Whilst you can dial in some exposure compensation, it does the work. This is fine for a lot of situations, but can be fooled in others. For example, TTL flash is good for macro, but not so good for wide angle shots where there is a lot of blue water in the shot, and a coral fan close to the camera. You can use Ikelite strobes with the Ikelite housing for fully auto TTL exposures. They work very well, bearing in mind the limitations already mentioned.There also TTL converters for use with other strobes. The Ikelite strobes are simply "plug and play". As far as manual operation goes. People use this because it gives more control over your lighting, and it really isnt that hard. When I started , I borrwed a couple of Ikelite strobes (DS125's), and found TTL great for Macro, but not too clever for WA. I then bought a pair of old Nikonos SB-105 strobes (because they were cheap!) and had to go manual. I found it easier than I thought. I also find it gives me a lot more scope to be "adaptive". In other words, I get the exposures I want, rather than what the camera wants (not always the same thing) If you do a search on here, there are hundreds of threads about TTL strobes. Hope this helps. I am no expert, but there are plenty on here who might be able to answer in a more helpful way. Its something to get you started anyway !
  7. Also, thanks to GUDGE, from whom I bought a small but important ULCS mount for my SB-105. Item arrived within a few days. Amazing, considering it came from the middle of no-where.(Well, Exmouth in Aus, that is !! )
  8. Thanks to Luko for sending the above mentioned cable so quickly, it arrived a couple of days after posting. Very nice to deal with. Polite, courteous, and speedy. After all, good manners cost nothing.
  9. Ahh, Lithiums, now I am even more confused. I have seen some rechargeables with a rating of 2850 mAh. Will these damage the strobes? Sorry for all the questions, but as I said, I am easily confused !
  10. I have some of the Energizers already. The main reason for me asking is the different mAh ratings. I don't want to put anything in the strobes which might damage them because they are "too powerful". I guess as long as they are AA size, they will be fine. At the moment most of my stuff is macro too, so 160 shots is not too bad.
  11. Thanks for the reply. Any recommendations on the ones you have used? If so, why are they better than the others?
  12. One of the best couple of days diving I ever had was off Catalina Island, california. kelp forests, Giant black sea bass, absolutely awesome. We stayed in a small hotel in Avalon. Great place.
  13. Hi all. I need a carry on case for my gear, and have narrowed it down to these 2 (I think) http://www.jitpak.com/storm-case-2500---in...uggage-75-p.asp (STORM 2500 CASE) OR: http://www.warehouseexpress.com/product/de...spx?sku=1011392 (PELICAN 1510 CASE) These are readily available in the UK, unlike some of the others I have read about using search on here. I need to know if I can fit my gear in, which is Ikelite D70 housing, 2 x SB-105's, 2 x Ultralight arms, 105mm port, 6" dome port, plus twin synch cable. Any opinions? Will the gear fit? and also anyone got any experience with either of these cases? At the moment I think the Storm case is favourite, due to it's 1Kg lighter, and slightly bigger int. dimensions,but am open to taking advice.
  14. If I cannot have it handed to me, I fully inflate my Diverite Super one wing, and giant stride in. I hold the camera (Ikelite D70+ 2 SB-105's) above my head. This way the rig doesn't even get wet until I lower my arms.
  15. I use Sony Vegas too. I use the Platinum version. I don't do that much video work, so it is very good for me, and does anything I need it to do. I tried Adobe Premier Pro, and it is very powerful, but it is quite hard to get to grips with all of the features in it, especially within the time of the free trial. ( I suppose it is a bit like Photoshop, it is unlikely that you will ever need all of the features, but they are there if you need them !) I found the Vegas software easy to use, and there are loads of cool and quite powerful tools, they just seem a bit more intuitive, at least for me anyway. Good luck.
×
×
  • Create New...