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jlyle

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Everything posted by jlyle

  1. Yesterday, I updated the firmware on my EM5 and my camera settings were not affected. There's an update available for the 12-50mm lens, too.
  2. If I go to Las Vegas for the w/e, I tip in restaurants and bars; and I leave a few dollars a day for the hotel maid. What I do not tip is the hotel! Why should you tip on the price of your room on the boat? Or on the cost of fuel for the boat? Split up the cost. Take out the $ for your room and leave an appropriate tip on the balance. Just my dos centavos. Here in Los Angeles, a restaurant is now adding 3% to the bill for employee health care. Give me a break.
  3. Hmmm. I have the EM5 and dual S&S YS-D1s. I shoot TTL and get great results in macro and WA. Strobes on TTL, camera fill flash. Strobe dial +0.3 or 0 EV?
  4. Only twenty five images now. Mine are gone, too.
  5. A couple of the images are mine! Anyone know who the SOB is?
  6. With fiber optic cables you may not be able to take advantage of the fastest sync speed on your camera. If you slow the shutter speed to just under the sync speed, you can use TTL without the problem you have described. Wired strobes do not have this problem.
  7. I have an Ike housing for the Olympus SP-350 gathering dust in a closet. Anyone need/want it? Pay shipping and it's yours.
  8. My advice? Get a strobe (better, get two) and shoot with auto WB. For dark blue backgrounds in wide angle, underexpose the image and adjust the strobes to properly light the foreground. PS There are used Ikelite DS-125s for sale here and elsewhere - great bargains. If, on the other hand, you want to keep your rig compact, get a filter. You can always modify a filter to use with your camera - duct tape?
  9. Hmmm. Interesting question. That's something I've never thought of. It should work, but with the filter you shouldn't have to mess with WB.
  10. Does the ZS3 allow you to adjust white balance? If so, you can shoot manual. A filter is an option. A strobe will light subjects that are close to the camera and compensate. A filter for video is an excellent choice.
  11. Make sure you aren't in "macro" before twisting the zoom gear.
  12. Caution. If you are thinking about using a DS-125 to upgrade to a DS-160/DS-161, the savings depends on how new the DS-125 is. I tried to upgrade and Ikelite wouldn't give me any discounts for my DS-125s. Caveat emptor.
  13. You just apply a slight right or left twist to the zoom gear...
  14. We took a group to Indo (Lembeh/Wakatobi) and some people taking Malarone had bad psychological problems that cleared up as soon as they stopped taking the med. We've been in the area a couple of times and did not see any mosquitos or get bitten. My dos centavos, don't. Side effects: http://www.drugs.com/sfx/malarone-side-effects.html CDC: http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/destinations/clinician/none/indonesia
  15. That's correct. Toggling between the "one-fish" and "three-fish" presets does change the shutter speed and f-stop. I don't know of any direct workaround other than the one you have mentioned.
  16. It looks like the props aren't bent - if that's the case, they weren't turning when the plane hit the water. What gas mixtures and what was the dive plan?
  17. ribbon worm piddock clams sea pansy
  18. FWIW, u/w wide angle photography is the most difficult type of image to capture. If you want instant gratification, shoot macro. You need lots of light, preferably dual strobes, to light the foreground; get as close as you can. Your strobes are ineffective more than three feet from the reef; light has to travel twice that distance, to the reef and back to the camera, absorbing light and color on both legs of the trip. For WA with a water background, you are trying to take two images in one. Ambient light for the background and strobe light for the foreground. If you want darker blues, set the camera to underexpose by -3.0EV. Auto WB is sufficient.
  19. I have used Olympus, Ikelite and Nauticam housings over the years. The Nau for the OM-D is fantastic. IHMO, go with the smaller more ergodynamic Nau housing. You will find the 8mm to be great fun.
  20. Arnie, IMHO, you need to become an experienced diver, with good buoyancy control, before taking a camera in the water. Yes, it's fun to have u/w pics to show your friends, but task overload can be a real problem for newly certified divers. First, tell us what you want to do, take some low quality pictures, take better quality pictures, compete in contests, ...? The answer to your question will then be obvious. Underwater photography is a hole in the ocean into which we throw money. Equipment is expensive. I have a garage full of crap that I went cheap on and later replaced with more expensive, better stuff. You can start with a little point/shoot, but you won't like the pics very much. You can move up the food chain by adding an underpowered, cheap strobe. Eventually, if you are serious about taking pictures underwater, you will buy a housing for your 7D, dual strobes, focus lights, lens ports, arms, etc. After you get a few dives under your belt, consider buying an older, used dslr, housing, etc. There are many nice rigs out there, on sale for less than the 7D housing alone. [i know someone with an Olympus E-330,Ikelite housing, lenses, ports, dual strobes, etc. gathering dust because people are chasing the latest and greatest.]
  21. If your camera is new, send it back to Olympus. If the camera is more than a year old, glue the cap back on; you don't want to void the camera's warantee by fixing it yourself.
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