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Posts posted by KirkD

  1. Wod t go with the Sigma 17-70 lens as you only lens. Bit. Bad lens, but something you would want too add to your collection. Mine doesn't come out often.


    First 2 lenses, IMHO,with a crop sensor camera, would be a tokina 10/17 FE anda Nikon 60 macro




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  2. I think, by the sound if it, you are looking for a sound blimp for your camera. If you are not familiar with them, they are a housing, just like what you have for underwater use and is primarily used by photographers who work on films set, theatre, or anywhere else that you need to silence the camera. Never used one, but I assume it is much lighter than the UW setup.


    Hope this helps



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  3. It does work, but wouldn't it be much easier to shoot with a DSLR camera like a Nikon or Canon? By the time you add the housing, the strobes and focusing lights it would seem that the smaller size advantages of the NEX7 camera have been all but eliminated. And you've lost the DSLR advantages of thru-the-lens viewing, auto-focus, true macro lenses and reliable TTL underwater flash.



    Jason down sized from a D7000. Thats why he's shooting the NEX. He can get it all in 1 carry bag!




    Hey Jason,

    Are these from Blue Herron in early Dec during the macro course?

    Hope all is well.



  4. To some extent yes! You can call it a lot of things, but it is effectively digitally zooming ( cropping) into the Photo.

    However, you loose pixels at the same time.

    TC etc are not throwing away pixels. So, there is the difference.



    Even when you "throw" away those pixel, you still got plenty left though. If memory serves correctly, doesn't it give you an 18mp file? Which is plenty. Hell my Nikon D90 is 12mp and i have not had any trouble with not having enough pixel to print. I've printed up to 20x24 without any issues. Just my 2 cents.

  5. Ummm the file was too big so couldn't upload but I'm sure you can imagine what I explained! The other problem I have is with the target light...When I push the target light button nothing happens!!! I have two ys-01's and same with both! I don't get what that could be as surely that should just work regardless of settings etc. Any advice much appreciated! Cheers!

    Try resizing the images with. 72ppi and repost. That should work and would help us trouble shoot. What is your aperture and shutter speed with these pictures



  6. A buddy of mine has this one- http://www.vividhousings.com/leak-sentinel.php on his housing.


    When I look at the images of the Backscatter unit I it seems to stick out a long way. I wouldn't want anything attached

    to a bulkhead to potentially catch on anything. I think I prefer the Vivid or similar design, much more compact.




    Link above does not work. I found it at:






    We have thought about the possibility to create such a product however there are some roadblocks to doing so. The vacuum connector must have an air passageway into the housing and most bulkhead connections are sealed. The second problem is the bulk of having the bulkhead extension and the vacuum connector in one part.


    We have a couple of non-bulkhead options that have been implemented with our customers. One is to add a small opening (only 11/32”) to the housing. Another is to replace an unused control with the vacuum connector. We currently have a vacuum connector that fits an unused control location in an ikelite housing and are willing to develop a similar solution for other housings upon request.

    I like that concept. I never us the flash compensation on my housing. I have an Aquatica. I know from servicing my housing, that all of the rotating shafts are ge same size.



  8. The backscatter non electronic vaccum system is $399 and the Housing Sentry system from UWcamerastuff is $699 including the $450 electronic part. Does anyone know what the non electronic housing Sentry be when your not using the $450 electronic section? maybe close to the $250 mark??????/


    What would be the difference bewteen the two non electronic systems besides the price????


    Regards Mark

    Looks like about $290. Here's a link to the price list.




  9. @ CheungyDiver: I agree with you that the manual pump is the better choice/version.

    I would however like the electronics in the Housing that senses the Pressure and feeds it to the LED.


    @KirkD: Did they say why it would not be possible to update to the Electronic version later?

    I can not see any technical reasons for it. Unless, they will include the Electronics into the Valve.

    I assume that they would have to change the valve then, in order to get sufficient room.

    They told me that the electronics would be built into the valve, however, the battery will be located inside the housing. I have not seen the unit though. Now bear in mind, it does everything the manual version does, but offers continuos feedback. So, if the battery dirs during the trip, you just go to the manual way.



  10. What is the benefit to an electronic version?

    The electronic version would also give you an indicator light that would blink a cetain color if the pressure was in a certain range and would change colors when it fell out of that range, indicating that you have a leak. The benefit of such system would be that you would always know the status of your seals. Whereas with the manual system, you pump it up and then rehook the gauge at a specific time (i.e. 30 minutes or later) and see if you have lost any pressure.



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