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KirkD

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Everything posted by KirkD

  1. Found it. Page E-23. Yeah, I find it interesting as well. Ill wait patiently for the reviews. I was hopeful and was thinking tht I would upgrade to these. Well .... I guess i'll wait and see.
  2. I wonder if the the new Dyron Aquatica adapter with a step down ring and the Saga Dive Dual Flip Lens Holder 67mm would work?
  3. You can by that as wel. WhenI spoke with Jean at ourorld underwater, he said that they were working on mking a lens holder.
  4. Since you are on here Jean, I would like to have a way to thread the diopters in and would like to be able to attach both the 5 and 10 diopters and flip them up when they are not in use. Saga Dive make one, but not for an Aquatica port .... yet. Ryan over at Reef Photo has them. Here are some pics: So Jean, this is on my wish list. I just prefer not to pop the lenses in and out. I know that I will eventually loose one. Thanks for posting some pics.
  5. Jean. Would it be possible to be able to at least post some photos taken with your new setup?
  6. Just to clarify. Did you have the problem with only the Tokina 10-17 with 4 inch dome? and you did not have the problem with the 60mm Macro in the flat port.
  7. I too have made that mistake. I typically get tipped off because when I test it, I can turn it on, but not back off. I have been diving DSLR for 5 years, but I don't dive every day. So, I review the instructions and actually have them open in front of me while I assemble my housing, especially if it has been a couple of months. I have had to replace a part in my housing because I didn't have a level in the right place when I inserted the my camera. Like I said, chuck it up to a learning experience. I bet you won't do that again. You could not have foreseen this. I was just referring to the Tokina lens hitting the inside of the dome port. I would have assembled it and checked it out. That way if it was happening before your trip, that could have been addressed. I actually bought a zoom gear and it did not fit my lens. I think it was put in the wrong package, but I tried it before my trip and noticed that it did not fit, so backscatter did an exchange. Problem solved. Even though the camera was recovered, you may not be so lucky next time. Just trying to give you some pointers so this does happen again.
  8. I'm sorry to hear about your troubles. I agree with saga7 . I think that you have unfairly blamed aquatica for some of your problems. Ifthere was a defect in the housing, then it would have flooded the 1st time youused it. Given that you did not know to turn the on/off switch to"on" and that you did not know that an extension was required for theTokina 10-17 with 4inch dome, I can only assume that you did not fully read themanual. Remember, most floods are user error. Here is what I do to avoid this. 1) you have to follow the instructions forinstallation in the manual; 2) You have to inspect the O-ring each and everytime you take off the back of your housing, take off the port, change batteriesin the strobe, etc. Make sure there is no debride on the O-ring such as a hair,sands, etc. you also need to inspect the groove where the O-ring lies. Itypically use q-tips, paper towels, and a rocket blower to clean the groves,which I do every time as grease can get built up. 3) I think that you need toassemble your camera gear off somewhere by yourself. Don't do it while talkingto others. That is a good way to forget to put an O-ring back in. 4) Don'tleave your camera in the dunk take on the boat or back at the pear. Just dunkit a few times and operate all the buttons and levers while submerged. Therehave been alot of floods in the dunk tanks, plus I have seen cables broken anddome port scratched in them. 5) Make sure the DM on the boat handles yourcamera by the handles. Don't let them grab it by the dome port. 6) Peoplediffer on the forum on this one. But I personally do not inspect grease my O-ringsover day. For example, my lights are hardwired. I will set these up once forthe week and never re-grease them again. I do check before and after the divethat they are properly secured and have not come loose. As for my ports, If Idon't take it off, then I don't re-grease it. I typically only stick with onelens 2 days, so I usually do it every other day. As far as the rear part of thecamera, I only take that off once a day to down load pictures, but have went 2days without downloading. My reasoning behind my theory is that the more youtake something apart, the more likely you are to potentially cause a problem.Hell, I don't take my dive computer or watch apart and re-grease the O-ringsand they have never flooded. As I said, this is my opinion and other on thisforum do it differently. Find a system that works for you and stick with it. Check out this website about Underwater Camera Maintenance http://www.divephotoguide.com/getting-star...ra-maintenance/ http://www.uwphotographyguide.com/underwat...ing-maintenance The issues with the buttons may be an actual issue with the housing. Thehousing came out like 1 year ago and this was discovered shortly thereafter anda recall was made. I remember reading about that. Contact Jean at Aqauaticawith your serial number and see if that was one of the affected housings. As far as the 4" dome not fitting with the Tokina 10-17. Chalk that one upto a lesson learned. You need to check the lens port chart when you get futurelenses. I, personally, will actually take the gear, ports, etc and make surethey fit when I get them. This is something that you obviously don't want tofigure out on your dive trip. Hopefully you will get these issues sorted out and will be good to go for yournext trip. I hope the information I provided was helpful. This is a good placeto post questions. Kirk
  9. Yes, you are reading it wrong. You do not need extension for the nikon 10.5. I have the 4" dome and have always known that an extendion was required for the Tokina. Im guessing that sand on the oring happened when you pulled out your SD card between the 1st and 2nd dive.ousing. Also, refer to page 7 of tbe manual. The camerashould be in the on position when you insert the camera. I guess my next question would be wether or not you lockef the camera plate?
  10. I have an Aquatica housing for my Nikon D90. Will a Sea & Sea TTL YS Converter/N for Nikon work with my housing? I have a YS-110 and a YS-110a strobe. Thanks
  11. Get an 8inch dome instead of a 6inch dome.
  12. I use the Ultralight Arms with the Stix floats and love them. Can't go wrong with that combo. ULCS are the gold standard as far as I'm concerned. Ive tried others, but I haven't tried the stix arms or even looked at them. What make ULCS different is the o ring on the ball end. It helps keep the arms locked in place. Kirk
  13. Im looking to add a second nikon dslr to my kit for a back up. Is there a way to run the serial number to ensure it is not stolen?
  14. I was curious if any one saw the New Aquatica Close Up Kit (holder with +5 & +10 Wet Close up lens) at DEMA. I was wanting to know if the wet lenses swing out so that you can use you macro lens by itself. Kirk
  15. The video is "USABLE" on the D90. Don't let anyone tell you any different. It is good for wide angle / Fisheye. I shoot video all the time underwater with my D90. The key is to lock the exposure and that it is not changing when you are shooting. I've tried macro without much success. However, having said that, I would get he D7000 if I was getting a new set up right now. Kirk
  16. I have updated to the new version of Lightroom and run Windows 7 64bit. I have had no problems KIrk
  17. Another good resource is Kelbytraining.com. Kelby and Lynda.com are good places for photoshop tutorial not specific to UW image editing. Doug Sloss DVD is good for UW editing. Also, check out Jack and Sue Drafhl. Kirk
  18. I would get whichever camera you like the most. i wouldn't worry that it is compact flash vs SD. I have been using SD cards for years. And if you end up going with the camera that has SD cards, no big deal. Memory is relatively inexpensive than what it has been in the past. Kirk
  19. I have dove the U-85. Too bad you don't have a WA lens. I think that would be ideal. If you haven't dove there before, the water is cold. If memory serves me correct, it was in the low 60's. Will need something heavier that a 3mm wet suit. I think I had seen a lot of conger eels on the wreck. Kirk
  20. I use the same thing Alex does. I even hand it up and once the person on the boat has it, then I will unclip it from my BC. Has worked great for me. Kirk
  21. I use a 105mm and 60mm Macro with my D90 and like this combo. I have heard good things about the 85mm, however, remember, the 85 is a DX lens. No biggy. I've just been trying to stick with lens that will work on DX/FX. You never know where the future nay take you. Kirk
  22. I have an Aquatica 8" Dome with Shade. Anyway, I looking for a case to put it in to put inside of my checked bag. I'm looking for something light weight and padded. Like a Pelican Type case. Does anyone have any suggestions? Kirk
  23. I have the AF-S 60mm Nikon and the Kenko 1.4 pro 300 teleconvertor. I just went outside and shot some images with it. It does work on my Nikon D90. However, sometimes I noticed that the focusing kind of jerk in and out before settling down. I really don't use this combo because I have a Nikon 105mm. I got the teleconvertor to use with the Tokina 10-17. Kirk
  24. ??? possibly a Variegated Cardinal Fish (Fowleria variegate)?? Kirk
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