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KirkD

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Everything posted by KirkD

  1. Do you have a dive package through the dive shop and a hotel package set up. Just wondering what the cost would be. Kirk
  2. i have just finished processing the final set of images for the Nikon AF-S 60mm Macro Lense for the Nikon D90. It can be downloaded via the Adobe Lens Profile Downloader 1.0. If you do not have the Profile Downloader, then head over to: http://labs.adobe.com/downloads/lensprofile_creator.html I have also posted a profile for the Tokina 12-24 f/4 AT-X 124AF Pro DX II Lens also shot with a D90. My next project will be for a profile for the Tokina 10-17 FE Enjoy Kirk
  3. I have submitted a profile for the Tokina 12-24 f/4 124 AF Pro DX II on a Nikon D90 to adobe labs. It is now available for download from the Adobe Lense Profile Downloader 1.0 I have a few more images to take and will load a profile for the Nikon 60mm AF-S Macro Lense. I plan on working on a profile for the Tokina 10-17 FE. Enjoy Kirk Douglas
  4. I use a fish scale as well. It work great. I forgot at first that I had done this. Takes the guess out. FYI. I take the fish scale with me on my trip to weigh luggage and move stuff around. They are really light weight and come in quite handy. Kirk
  5. Do some editing with it and see how it performs. I had trouble with it crashing all the time. That was like 2 versions back. I ended up going with Sony Vegas Movie Studio HD Platinum 10.0. I love it. You can get a 30 day trial as well. Now, I edit motion JPEG, not what you are shooting though. Kirk
  6. Yeap, I missed it. Now that I 'm looking at it, I agree that this is a large-spotted snake eel a.k.a. Ophichthus polyophthalmus Thanks Kirk
  7. I use the Stix floats on my ULCS arms and like them alot. Kirk
  8. I went through the Reef Fish ID Tropical Pacific book and did not come up with anything Kirk
  9. Just check to make sure that you can get a housing for your selected camera that will accommodate optical cable. I have Aquatica and really am pleased with it. They have great customer support and Jean is always on Wetpixel answering questions. Definitely have your duck in a row before making the purchase. If you are from the Midwest, OurWorldUnderwater.com is coming up in February and Vendors such as Reef Photo and Backscatter will be there and typically have several housings to look at. Jean with Aquatica last year was hanging around with the backscatter guys to answer questions. Ryan with Reef Photo is typically there and he carries Nauticam that several wetpixel members seem to like. I've never been to Beneath the Sea in New Jersey, but I'm sure these guys will be there as well if you live on the east coast. Hope this helps. Kirk
  10. I have shot with the Tokina 10-17 fisheye, but not the wide angle. I shoot with the Nikon D90. I have been pleased with the video on the Fisheye. I would only recommend that you set you camera up so that you can lock the exposure. If you don't, the video will change exposure while you are shooting. Kirk
  11. $650 for port and lens is going to be hard. What housing? I agree that a Tokina 10-17 with Magic Filter, given the financial situation. If momey was not an issue, then I would go with a 60mm Macro (or something close to it. I shoot Nikon, not Canon) and get 1 strobe as Bonaire is a great place for Macro.
  12. I know that they are no longer Aquatica dealers. I have no idea why they are not. I did review posts on Scuba Board and it does not appear that they have the best reputation. I have bought stuff from backscatter, reef photo, and B&H Photo. I have had excellent service from all of them. I personally have never tried to do any business with H20 Photo. Kirk
  13. I had my shutter button break last year too with the Aquatica housing. Luckily it was under warranty. I was able to tape the button back on during the trip and was able to continue shooting. Kirk
  14. I agree. I would download the Lightroom 3 Beta and see what you think. I personally use Lightroom and I use photoshop CS4 as well. I use photoshop to remove to do some things such as backscatter. I definitely use Lightroom more, which I'm sure everyone who uses both do. I jump over the photoshop on the images that I go to print with. FYI, I do shoot a lot of wrecks, which you can't always light. Kirk
  15. I gave a Aquatica Hosing. I love it. Kirk
  16. check out www.lynda.com They gave elements training for version 5 and 7. Shold be similiar enough to version 6. kirki
  17. I'm wanting to record some videos of some photoshop techniques. I'm looking for a screen recorder that captures MPEG-4. I run window and have the new Intel I7 processor. Recommendations?? Thanks Kirk
  18. Is the shampoo ok for acrylic dome ports? I ahve the Aquatica 8 inch kirk
  19. I have already read that post. It is a discussion of removing scratches, but I merely want to know about cleaning the acrylic. kirk
  20. I did a search on cleaning an Acrylic dome port, but just come up with advice on removing scatches. What are you using to clean the dome ports? I think I remember someone telling me Mirror Glaze #17. I just don't want to ruin my new dome. Thanks
  21. I used to do mine daily, then I went to do it every other day. I do take my camera out daily and close the back housing panel. I do this immediately and then in the AM I return my camera to the housing and do a check of the oring. If there is any sand or anything else of concern, I go ahead and re-do it. This was just something that I have done with no real guidance. Kirk
  22. Didn't know that the D100 syncs at 1/180. I thought it was 1/200th. I was trying to get him a starting point. What I should have said was to set the Shutter no higher than the fastest synch speed. Kirk
  23. Use a shutter speed less than 200. Strobe can't seek faster that that. Apeture and ISO exposes for you foreground and background exposure. The shutter speed is for the back ground exposure and the stobe power is for the foreground exposure. With your maco setup try this: ISO 200, Apeture F16 or F22, Shutter speed 200, Flash in Manual at 1/2 to 1/4 power. Take a shot and adjust from there. i.e. if the back ground is too dark, then lower the shutter speed. If the foreground is blown out, reduce the strobe power. Kirk
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