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Everything posted by KirkD

  1. I just checked out the Philippines 2009 (Set) . Wow!!! Great shots Kirk
  2. I had the same problem. I took a knife and split the two wires down by the sodering points on both wires and then ran the knife gently between the 2 sodering points to make sure that the soder did not spill onto the other. I did this on both points, put the battery in and now it will only go off when I test it with my wet fingers. I got some feedback from the forum and actually it is under Aquatica Moisture Alarms. Check it out for other suggestions. Kirk
  3. Thanks. It worked. Works like a charm now. Kirk
  4. I went ahead and got the moisture alarm. Got it today. I out the battery in and it goes off non stop. Does anyone know how I can fix this? Or do I have a defective unit. Kirk
  5. I think there is a little more to fool with underwater than top side. Just becuase you can get into trickier lighting. People have their own prefrences in which mode the shoot in. I guess it all depends on what you want to do. Some prefer Apeture Priorty mode, while others will move on over to Shutter Priority mode to stop action, and then other prefer Manual mode. Then you get over into Flash, i.e. TTL vs Manual. A good resource is Martin Edge "The Underwater Photographer". If you don't have, then it is a must get book. I personlly use my strobe in Manual. Tried TTL ... didn't like the results. I'm comfortable with the Manual Mode on the SLR when shooting good VIZ, on a reef, and using a manual strobe. Then what you need to review is Exposure 101. There are 4 types of exposure controls: 1) F/stop - control the foreground and background exposures; 2) ISO - Also foreground and background exposure.; 3) Shutter speed - background exposure; 4) Flash - foreground exposure. For Fisheye: Start with 200 ISO, F/stop F8, Flash 1/2 - 1/4 power, and the shutter at 1/200 (I speaking manual mode). Take a shot. If the background is too dark, decrease the shutter speed. If the foreground is too bright, then decrease the flash output. If everything is too dark, try bumping up the ISO or opeing the Apeture. With Macro, same settings, except go with a Apeture of F16 or 22. I thin the best way to figure this out topside, is to go out in the later evening, using a flash in Manual. And take some pics messing around. Try shooting up towards the sky and shooting something close. I took shots of the gutters in my house (exciting I know). Mess with the different settings I metioned above and see what happens. I more of a learn by doing. Hope this helps. Kirk FYI: These are my suggestions. Many photographers have the own preferences. I do feel that the Apeture settings I mentioned are pretty standard starting point. Even the pros don't always agree. If you read Martin Edges book and then Jack and Sue Drafahl's book "Master Guide for Underwater Photographer" you'll see 2 different preference in their shooting modes.
  6. I shoot a Nikon D90. The reason that the max shutter speed is 1/200 is because that is the fastest shutter speed that you can synch with the flash. In the menu you can set the flash to "Auto FP High Speed Sync" and synch to a higher speed if you want. Not sure if the D80 has this feature, but pull out the old manual and take a look. I guess is there a reasin to set a higher speed? Also, please clarify your other questions? Not sure what you mena with land shoot as w/u shoot? Kirk
  7. Does anyone has the Moisture Alarm for an Aquatica Housing? Are they easy to install? How do they work? Is it worth having one installed? Thanks Kirk
  8. I'm new to dSLR. I have I Nixon D90 with the Aquatica housing. I'll be shooting with the Tokina 10-17 FE with an 8" dome. I'll have 2 stobes, one the Sea and Sea YS-100 and the other one the newer YS-100a version. Do I need a Buyancy arm with the set up? I plan on getting 2 - 8" arm segments. If I need one, should I shoot for the large or regular buoyancy arms. I'm going with the 8" length because I have seen that commonly recommended along with getting 5" arms on the strobe end. I plan to add a 60mm Macro lense in the future, which I'm sure will change what I do with the arms. I appreciate any advice. Kirk
  9. I was on the Sea and Sea website and saw that they discontinued the housing for the Nikon D700. Since this housing was just launched less than 3 months ago, I guess there must be a story behind this? Anyone know? Kirk
  10. No I have not recieved my housing yet. Kirk
  11. I have used Leisurepro before and have had good luck. Wouldn't buy anything that required an annual service from them (ie reg and BC). I'm a tech diver and use Apeks. They sell Apeks, but aren't authorized dealer for that, so there is no warranty. I have bought like fins, knives, and stuff from them with no problems. I've tried Scuba.com. But have cancelled orders as well as some of my friends. Problem with them was I would order stuff and pay extra for 2 day shipping and when nothin arrived, I called and they said it was on backorder, although the website said it was in stock. Not even an e-mail telling otherwise. My best friend had the samething happen to him as well. And they chraged his credit card when they did not even have the item in stock. He waited 1 month then cancelled. I try to support my local dive shops. I live in Indianapolis and we have 4 in the area. They pretty much only sell what they have in stock. I've asked them to get me things such as steel tanks, masks, etc, but they never were too interested in getting anything for me. I eventually found a shop 1 hour away and he takes good care of me and does good service on my regs and tanks. Will do orders for me as well, but he does not carrying every brand I use such as Halycon or Aquatica. I have also had really good luck with http://www.divegearexpress.com/ They used to be diveriteexpress, but changes their name after they started to carry other dive manufactor gear. They are in Fort Lauderdale. I stopped in to see them. They charge you for the air that you only need plus air and Nitrox is the same cost up to 40% and they don't short you out on the pressure. AS far as Camera gear goes, I like B&H photo. I'm a NAPP member, so I get free shipping. Therefore, I have not tried Adorama. Have always had good service from them. And they ship fast. Just order 3 weeks ago from Backscatter. Housing for the D90, ports, and gears. I called on Friday inquiring about my gear. Apparently, they had to order the housing in. This may be standard practice. Not sure, but atleast B&H photo had this on the website if I would have ordered this from the,. I only wich backscatter had let me know this when I ordered. Haven't got my gear, so the jury is still out on them. They were nice people and pleasant to deal with. I went with them, since they are divers and know what they are talking about when I spoke with them on the phone. Kirk
  12. I have a SB-600 strobe and it usually will only synch to 250. In the past it would not let me dial anything higher than that. When I was shooting yesterday with flash, I just rolled the dial knowing it would stop at 25o, but it went higher. I have taken off the strobe and reattached it. Still will let me shoot flash > 250. I guess my question is: Should I be worried that something is off with the camera's electronic?? Peronally, I like being able to synch at higher speeds. Kirk
  13. I already have 1 Sea and Sea YS-110 that I was using on my P&S. I plan to add the new version, i.e. YS-100a as my second strobe. I looked at the 250. I just hate having proprietary batteries. I like to use the old recarhargable AA's. Always have a bunch of them handy. I've read stories where someone forgot to bring the charger for their stobe and couldn't find a replacement on the trip. Kirk
  14. No, I will not be shooting TTL. I tried before, but was not happy with the results. But that was with a point and shoot. Since, I have shot in the flash manually. Will start somewhere in the 1/2 to 1/4 power range and adjust from there. Remember that there are 4 expose controls: 1) F Stop; 2) ISO; 3) Shutter speed; & 4) Flash. I usually have a f-stop f8-11 for fisheye/WA or F18-22 for macro, set to the lowest ISO, which is 200 on the D90. Using the manual flash to expose the foreground and use the shutter speed to expose the back ground. ISO and F-Stop adjustment affect both the foreground and back ground. Kirk
  15. You can shoot each of these lenses with Aquatica. Once you get set up with the 60mm, you'll only need to add an extension and possibly a focus gear if you went with the Port 18426. Then you'll need to see which dome you want for the 18-55 and the Tokina and then pick up the appropriate extension and zoom gears. I have ther Tokina and went with the 8" dome port. From what I have read on Wetpixel, there is some vignetteing with the 6" dome ports, but I did not see anything specifically about that on the Aquatica. Kirk
  16. As for the Aquatica, you have 2 choices with the nikon 60mm. You do NEED a port, just not an extension. There are 2 ports availabe: 1) Product # 18426 Auto & Manual Focus Macro port for use with close-up and macro lenses. For all bayonet housing; or 2) Product # 18428 Auto Focus only compact Macro port for use with close-up and macro lenses. For all bayonet housing. So it all depends on if you want the ability to manaul focus with the port. I looked at the D90 housing for a few month and finally went with Aquatica. Just ordered it last week through Backscatter. I haven't recieved it yet. I did get to handle the camera/housing at OurWorldUnderWater in Feb and liked it. Kirk
  17. I too just ordered an aquatica housing. Got it from Backscatter. Thanks Jean for answering all my question at OurWorldUnderWater in chicago. I greatly appreciated all of your time. This was a tough decision for me. i live in Indianapolis, where we have Ikelite. i like to support my home town as much as possible, but finally went towards the Aquatica Housing since I'm a tech diver and would probably dive deeper than the rating on my housing. Jean, if your listening, 2 options that I would have liked to have seen on the Aquatica Housing is: 1) Two Fiber-optic cable sockets (as a tech diver I always look for failure points, I like this better than the Nikonos Bulkhead option); 2) I like the Sea and Sea lanyard brackets on the handle. Would like to see this as an add on option. Should be an easy add on option if there is no patent issues. These 2 are on my wish list. Kirk
  18. This is dive related and photo related. I have a light weight fish scale that goes to 55lbs. Cost less than $20. Great for weighting the different bags. Has always been within 1/2 pound. Great to have on trip to re-arrange bags if necessary. kirk
  19. Are you referring to the 8" ball to ball and a 5" ball to strobe?? Would this set up be ok for both macro and FE. I'm shooting a Tokina 10-17FE and a 60mm macro. I'm seriously considering Aquatica D90 housing. Shoul I get the buoyancy arms?? I moving up from a point and shoot. This is my first DSLR. THanks kirk
  20. There is no optical cable input for the Aquatica Housing. You'll need to order the housing with a Nikonos bulkhead. Kirk
  21. The Ike housing for the D90 does not allow for the flash to be popped up, therefore, you can't go optical, you'd have to go hard wires (aka. electrical). You'd have to check with the guys who shoot the DS-51, but I think I have read posts that they may no be powerful enough to light wide angle shoots?? I think they'd be fine for Macro. Kirk
  22. ive never enter a photocontest, but i would not consider the fill or recover slider the same thing as dodge and burn kirk
  23. I assume you ment photoshop CS3. The recovery sliders helps bring back details in highlights that are burned out. I would not equate it to a levels adjustment. The fill light lightens the shadows and trys to bring back detail in the shadows. Just be aware that this can bring in some noise. I think that the Shadow/Highlight adjustment in photoshop is the closest thing to the fill light. I don't know if you are familiar with that function. Kirk
  24. I'm not familiar with the Patima housing. I took a look at the pictures on Reef photo. I does not appear the have fiber optic cables. I know that the Aquatica does not have the fiber optic cabel connection. You can order the Aquatica hosung with either a Nikonos or Ikelite bulkhead to hook up a stobe. The only housing that I'm aware of that has both a fiber optic and a Nikonos bulkhead is the Nexus housing, but it is about a $1000 more than the other 2 housings you mentioned. The YS-27 only has fiber optic hook up and not a nikonos bulkhead. You would either have the get the YS-100a or the YS-250PRO to work with the housings you mentioned. They have the the Nikonos hookup. Then you can run a fiber optic cable for one of those stobes to the YS-27 and run it as a slave. As far as the Ikelite DS-51, I'm pretty sure they have a cable. You can always e-mail them directly, they are good about getting back with you. Here is there website with the cables. http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/sync_cords.html I'm not sure, but you mention a TTL cable. I think TTL on Ikelite only works with a Ikelite housing. Ike people need to chime in on this one. Kirk
  25. I shoot video ... sort of. I have a Nikon D90 and do a lot of wreck diving. I will ocasionally switch over and shoot some video. I have all these clips laying around and would like to put them together. I've read some of these recommendations and did not see any thing on Adobe Premiere Elements 7. Is it junk when compared to the other similiarly priced products? How about Premeire CS4? Kirk
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