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About Goondoo

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  1. err... i'm talking about the Tamron 90mm guys....
  2. Hi friends, Due to my budget constraint, likely I will buy a ikelite housing in the near future. For now, I am practising my land skills and getting use to the camera. I shoot macro mostly with butterflies and dragonflies my favourite subject as I find them moderately difficult and interesting, at the same time practising the DOF. I shot with a borrowed Tamron 90mm macro non-DI currently and will be returning it to my friend very soon. I will need to purchase one soon but I can't made up my mind on which lense I should get. With limited funds, likely I will get another Tamron 90mm macro, maybe with DI this time. Here comes the questions: 1) Is the form factor for Tamron 90mm DI and non-DI exactly the same? and function wise as well? 2) I can't find this lense under the "ports" page in ikelite's website. I do however, saw a 90mm macro under Sigma which I suspect them having it up wrong as Sigma doesn't manufacture 90mm for macro. Your kind advise is very much appreciated. PS: Please pardon my lousy English.
  3. Hi Bob, I owned 2 sunpak g-flash. I am not any way near a pro so my comments are not really useful, i think. G-flash is basically identical to Epoque strobe on the exterior. I did some test before purchasing and found that the slave sensors are more sensitive compared to Epoque. They provide more than enough lights for macro pictures and reasonably well (for its size and costs) for normal wide angle. These are some simple test I tried in another forum These are some pictures I took my short Bali recently.
  4. No. People at Aquatica claims they are working on it. Ok... thx...
  5. Hi Rand, Just want to clarify... Are you able to activate the modeling light and laser beam for Z200S using the L&M housing?
  6. If you are not using External slave strobe, using P mode was about it. If you insist using manual, you just need to go through your own set of trial and error to get the settings. I, using 2 slave strobes, would normally set my Aperture to 8, shoot and view until I like the lighting reflected in the LCD. Most people will advise using F5.6 and shutter speed of between 80-250. Hope this helps.
  7. Using my Inon macro lense, there is also some vignette if I wide all the way. just need a little zoom in to remove it, definitely not alot. Unless the WAL will give more vignetteness than my current lense, I dun really see it as a problem.
  8. HUE? yea, HUE. I dunno the exact term... maybe someone can advise?
  9. Glad to know u like it.... I did some manual leveling, decreased the HUE by 5, increased the saturation by about 20.... use blur to remove the uneven area....
  10. Hi James, Why not? its still 67mm threaded.... and I had been using a Inon macro lense with it. Can't afford a WAL yet thou...
  11. How about like this? Just a very fast touch up using photoshop CS, so not very refine...
  12. Goondoo


    Actually, I was shooting with 2 Sunpac strobe by with F8 and 1/500 speed. I guess I will try even higher speed next time. The shot was taken in Batam, Indonesia. I went with Diveriau.com Thanks...
  13. Goondoo


    Very well said... thanks for the guidance... had never never thought of that.... However, I was diving in the visibity of about 3m... and the water is kinda yellowish green instead of deep blue or deep green... The particles in the water caused darkness after we descend more than 7m. Just wanna be sure if it is still a good choice to use the water background given such conditions. Really appreciated your very kind comments.
  14. Goondoo


    Finally a place for me, *packs all his stuff and moved in* Since I got the honour for the first post besides echeng, please bear with my pictures and give me some lenient comment, I had lots of room for improvement..... OLYMPUS CORPORATION C5060WZ 12.06.2004 at 08:02:00 M - Manual f 8.0 1/750 s 80 ±0,00 EV 70 mm KB (14.3 mm Real) 768 x 576 Pixel 72 x 72 dpi 2.0:1 -- Automatic Spot metering On --
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