Jump to content

01sugar2

Member
  • Content Count

    15
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About 01sugar2

  • Rank
    Damselfish
  • Birthday 09/13/1980

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    Sugar2MTB
  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Dallas, TX
  • Interests
    - Cycling (Mountain Bike and Road)<br />- Photography<br />- Scuba Diving<br />- Soccer

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 30D
  1. Two main manuals came with the strobe; It came in a day early! Both for the Z240 Type4 model, and both even have my exact serial # stamped on the back of each book. Anyhow, one manual is for the Basic Operation labeled as Optical Connection "S-TTL" Simple Shooting and the other is the Advanced Operation optical connection (advanced), electrical connection. The Basic manual is 55 pages and the Advanced is 83. I may have to copy them one manual at a time, but I can get you a copy of them in PDF if you would like. PM me your email addy and I'll see if I can't get that off to you tomorrow sometime. Dustin
  2. My Type 4 Z240 will be in my hands on Dec. 1st, and I ordered it from Reef Photo in Fort Lauderdale. I was on vacation last week and visiting in Reef's area, so I decided to pay them a visit. Richard took one look at my setup and brought out a sync cable and strobe that matched my bulkheads. To save on the sales tax, I had it all shipped back home, which is why I don't have it yet. HOWEVER, they are one of only a few distributors of Inon strobes in the USA. If they know what housing you're going to have, I'm pretty sure that they can give you a yea or nay fairly quickly on the Z240. As for the PDF, if needed, I should be able to produce a PDF manual once my paper version comes in if one can't be located between now and mid next week. Dustin
  3. http://www.inon.jp/products/st_z240/z240_type4.html That's the fastest reply that I can provide. My battery is about to die and I'm currently on board a plane with "not the fastest in the world" WiFi access. I hope this helps at least some! Dustin
  4. I know that this is an old thread now, but I stopped by Reef Photo on Tuesday of this week and picked up a new Inon Z240 strobe. Richard was extremely helpful! The strobe I purchased was the newer Type 4 model, and everything will be covered under warranty through Reef Photo. I second the motion that Ellen made to give these people a call when you need some assistance, especially with questions in regard to Inon. Thanks, Reef! Dustin
  5. Which strobe cables are needed to make this housing sync with strobes? I have a friend with my dive club that'd probably be very interested... thanks! Dustin
  6. I currently have a Scubapro X650/Mk17 reg setup that I really enjoy as it breathes extremely well for me. I like the looks of the Kronos, and in my area the little bit of environmental sealing that a diaphragm first stage offers over the piston designs can be kind of nice. I suppose the bubble concern however is a lot more valid with a P&S that only has a live view display option over a viewfinder (such as with my S&S 860G camera). Anyhow, I plan to practice in a pool quite a bit with the new rig so that I get used to using the controls u/w as I won't be hitting a reef anytime soon (it'll be March). Looking at the demo that Alex did in the Magic Filter video, I can see where not having an extended viewfinder and or an elongated side exhausted 2nd stage regulator had almost no bearing on his shooting. I know it's not the same comparing him to myself, but it seems that what both Steve and I stated above was true in that my anxiety to get in the water might have caused me to over analyze what will be needed to start shooting. I do like the idea of an extended viewfinder though, and that very well could be my next purchase following a strobe setup. Scorpio Fish, I'm sure we'll meet up one of these days as I am in the DFW area myself. David and Lilly Prichard are two of my good friends, and I've recently moved from diving at Blue Dolphin Scuba in Frisco over to Island Divers in Denton with Lee Gano. David, Lilly and Lee have all said some very nice things about the DUPS members, and being involved with the industry yourself, I'm sure you know these 3 people very well. If you attend the meetings regularly, I'm sure I'll see you in Jan. Thanks for the kind replies everyone! Obviously I've got a lot to learn, but I'm here for the long haul so I'm sure you'll be seeing a bit more of me on this message board.
  7. Toying with a hard decision a few weeks ago, I decided to take the cheapest path and purchased a used (2 dives only I'm told) Aquatica 30D housing for my camera. I was REALLY looking to upgrade dSLR bodies, but instead found it cheaper to get a nice (and the housing is indeed in mint shape) housing for my current body instead; thank you ebay. It seems that the PADI/SSI instructor that owned the housing is having a hard time making it in Florida with the way the economy is, and I can say that I feel his pain; A month and a half ago, my local dive shop closed up leaving me as a Divemaster with no job. To say the least, diving is a late night and weekend gig and my main job is what holds everything together. In saying that, I feel for everyone involved in this industry right now! Anyhow, the lack of assisting with classes as a DM has freed up a lot of time for me to do things on my own. I knew I wanted to upgrade from a P&S for u/w usage to a dSLR, but that time frame got bumped up considerably when I ran across an Aquatica setup for a price that I couldn't refuse. In saying that, the 30D doesn't have a live view option (for those of you who don't know), and I'm now faced with the "bubbles in your face" concern for u/w shooting. Both my previous and now even my current dive shop are Aqualung suppliers, and I'm a big fan of the diaphragm first stage setups over the piston designs. The Kronos seems to be nice and it looks to have the distance-pushing side exhaust that I'm probably looking for. As a DM I'm pretty good with my air and know that bubbles tend to make things disappear at times, but with the viewfinder already limited by the mask and regular setup as it is, I'm thinking that it's not to my best advantage to use a 2nd stage that exhausts bubbles (possibly) right by my already limited view of the subject. Maybe I'm trying to over analyze the thought, and maybe it's just me wanting to try something new out (or it could be both at this point). I was wondering if anyone out here in the photography world used a 2nd stage regulator like the Aqualung Kronos, and if so, how do you like it? I've spoken with a few that have it locally and they really like the regulator, but none of them are doing any kind of photography, let alone with an SLR. I realize this subject is more so gear related than photography, but all of the relevance behind it is photography minded. I'd simply like to have some input on your thoughts as to a good regulator and or a design to dive with while shooting. My housing came in the mail on Friday, and I probably won't have the chance to play in the water with the camera setup till about mid week at our City's indoor pool. With that being said, I don't really know what to expect and would like some input on the subject. Thanks! Dustin
  8. My current dive shop owner just closed up our dive shop (so maybe not so current I suppose) and moved to St. John to teach diving down there. It may be possible to take a few days and actually get certified down there with him, but I have no idea of your schedule. I was one of Michael's most utilized divemasters at our shop, and I can assure you he's an amazing (PADI) instructor. The only name of a spot that I recall doing any snorkeling was Trunk Bay. Trunk Bay is rated (as the locals will tell you anyhow) as one of the top 10 beaches in the world; it's very beautiful. As for other snorkeling locations however, I don't recall their names really and for that, I am sorry. The sites that I visited weren't far from Trunk Bay however, and some of my best underwater film photos came from St. John. There's a lot of really neat history in St. Thomas and St. John that I'm sure you'll pick up on as well, again, from the local people on the island(s). They were used during a lot of the pirate days for rum running, trading and fighting. About 4 years ago, PADI's Sport Diver publication had a great several page article on dozens of ship wrecks out there between St. Thomas and St. John. In my opinion, you won't go wrong diving and or snorkeling. With a camera setup like yours, you deserve to have it in the water. Splash with confidence my friend and enjoy your stay on the islands! Dustin
  9. Most of the great snorkeling I have done in the past was off of St. John. St. John is almost within a rocks-throw of St. Thomas, and it's a very easy island to get to. The shallower the reef is, the closer you'll be to it and as long as you're careful with your rig you'll be just fine. U/W photography is a learning curve, but it's a wonderful experience and is one that I know you'll enjoy. Have fun in St. Thomas! Dustin
  10. I understand this is an old thread by this point, but I thought I may as well put my 2psi in ont it anyhow. Silica packs go a long way for correcting fogging concerns, and I'm sure we've all seen their uses many times fold by this point. The only time I had any fog concerns was the one time I ever sealed off my point and shoot (P&S) camera setup w/o using a silica pack inside... OOPS. With my P&S camera, I've even gone as far as to use a good dive mask defog "paste" on the internal housings ports' lens. I like to let it dry and then wipe it clean; This is the last step before sealing off my camera in the housing. Just like with a dive mask, you have to be rather quick (I think anyhow) or else the defog doesn't do a lot of good (if any). The tiny dab of defog that it takes to cover the lens on the inside port of the housing doesn't really cost anything extra as it's something that we all pretty much have as part of our daily dive gear. Some may not like the thought of this idea, but I've never had a problem with fog since I started doing the above mentioned two things. Dustin
  11. I'm certainly no expert, and I'm new here myself, but I might be able to steer you in the right direction. I'm currently looking at a setup for my girlfriend, but I will be using a Canon A2000 IS camera for hers. As for Olympus, here's a site with some options for you.... http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/camolychart.html Ikelite is good about producing a lot of point and shoot camera housings, and they also make conversion setups for accepting Inon lenses (like the one that you have). They list the 1030 that you mentioned as one that won't accept the Inon conversion because of the "already" wide angle lens that comes with the camera itself. However, if you're looking to stay with Olympus, the Stylus 1200 (Mju 1200) might be an option for you. The conversion to accept the Inon (part number #9306.80) only runs $50 USD (plus or minus a few dollars depending on where you find it), and hopefully that'd get you what you need. Their Inon lens however is part number UWL-105AD and not the 100 that you have. It still claims to be the 67mm, but like I said it's not the 100. You might need to have a look at the rest of the point and shoot camera/housing setups that Ikelite has (theirs are the only ones I'm familiar with.... sorry) and go from there. Sending Ikelite an email would probably be a good idea as well; just ask them how much different the 100 is from the newer 105 model (someone here probably knows if they chime in, in time). The housing for the Stylus 1200 also isn't all that expensive, and is only $40 more than that of the 1030 you were originally considering This info might not be quite what you were looking for, but hopefully it is a start for you. Best of luck with your hunting! Dustin
  12. This is also something I was pondering myself. I wonder if there'd be trouble trying to prove how deep you went with the housing if a failure happened, but from my research it seems that most housings are good to at least their max depth rating and then some. All of the failures that I've read about are basically from human operator error (o-ring condition, not using lube on o-rings, etc.). As for Aquatica, I've been looking for an Aquatica housing for the 30D, but they've been discontinued and no one seems to be wanting to get rid of theirs. I'll most likely wait a bit before buying a housing so that I can continue to monitor what becomes available through classified ads and ebay/craigs list postings. I'd like to be able to use my Inon strobe with TTL, and that doesn't seem possible with Ikelite. We'll see what happens, and I'll post my decision here once I buy into a setup that I can't live without. Dustin
  13. Brian, I appreciate your quick reply; the information that you provided is exactly what I was wanting to find. As for playing photographer during early tech-training, I think that we'd all agree that "that" is definitely a no-no. The only reason that I get to dive as often as I do is the fact that I'm a Divemaster and I assist with a large amount of dives each year. I'm a firm believer in good training and safety, so it would be a good while before I started taking a photography setup down "deep" with me. As for the info however, thanks again for your numbers! I hadn't been able to find a depth rating on Nexus to this point, but I've only seriously even sought after info on their 30D bodies over the last few days. I've already been looking at the various depth ratings of multiple items such as strobes and ports/domes, and am overwhelmed by the plethora of manufacturers out there for these items. It's also nice to have a message board on the 'net to be able to find like-minded people who have real world experience with this field. I'm still learning and pray that I never stop. I'm sure I'll be seeing you around amongst the various forums and look forward to doing so. Dustin
  14. I'm new to posting on this board, but I've been a lurker (on and off) for about the last year. The other day I found a great deal on a brand new Canon 30D SLR body, and needless to say, that camera just so happened to accompany myself on the ride home that evening. I do a lot of diving (compared to many it seems), and I've had several failures with one of my point and shoot digital cameras following a few of these trips (3 of the cameras failed within the last year, and now my warranty is out). To sum it all up, I'm very pleased to have a camera that I feel comfortable with, and even more pleased with the fact that I can find housings for it to take it u/w with me; a luxury that I didn't have with my previous film SLR bodies (Canon Rebel Ti, Elan 7n and EOS3). I love scuba diving, and I also enjoy being able to see everything from tiny feeder shrimp to large shipwrecks. My interests are starting to technical diving however, and I'm very curious as to see how many of you on this forum do any of that. I see photos and video of ships that are far below even the 2 and 300' range, and I find it amazing how well these housings are constructed to allow for the extreme pressures at those depths. How deep have you gone with your setup? Many of these housing manufacturers only rate their items to 2 or 300', and though that's sometimes more than double the recreational dive limit, there are people out there like Leigh Bishop that photographs wrecks at the 650' range. I'm not an extremist when it comes to having to go crazy deep, but I really love maritime history and the wrecks do fascinate me and I would love to see some of them. The 30D has several body options, and though I'm not trying to be cheap, I really tend to like the Ikelite housing. I've had the pleasure of using several different point and shoot Ike housings in the past, and I've been genuinely pleased with all of them. The other option that I'm looking into is that of the Nexus housing as it appears to be of a metal construction and it happens to have more TTL capabilities with strobes such as for the Inon's (one of which I already own). I would like to find a local diver and or a dealer (Dallas, TX area) that has a Nexus housing so that I could develop my own opinion before buying one however simply because I've never touched one before. As for the depths I might see, I think between 2 and 300' will most likely be my max, and I might (at most) only see that a few times per year. After evaluating my plans for any possible depth, I really feel like the Nexus would be my best option. I wanted to provide a bit of information in this one post because I'm a newbie on the board and no one here really knows me. My topics jumped around a bit, but I am very curious as to know how many of you might venture past the recreational dive limits with your setups, and I'd like to know how many of you even push the possible envelope of your housings' depth rating; have you had any complications? After doing a bit of searching, I couldn't really find much info on the topic and so I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask. Thank you in advance for your replies, and I appreciate you taking the time to read my post. Dustin
  15. Steve, many thanks for the long explanation of why you chose what you did and for providing a look into some of your u/w photography background. Personable people make this site a very welcoming spot on the 'net that we all can visit and share information with each other. I too am a Canon shooter, and though my choices are a bit more limited (though not by too much) as I shoot with a 30D as opposed to the 40D, I think it's great to be able to learn what setups work and which ones don't from actual real-life applications and setups. "Thank you" to everyone who's contributed to this thread; I'm sure it'll help far more of us than those who have just replied. Dustin
×
×
  • Create New...