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mkrzysztofowicz

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About mkrzysztofowicz

  • Rank
    Starfish
  • Birthday 06/18/1978

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  • Website URL
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ireland

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Ireland
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D60
  • Camera Housing
    Ikelite D60
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    2 x Ikelite DS-125
  • Accessories
    ULCS strobe arms
  1. Hi All, Some class shots so far! Here's my favourite. Some might say it's too dark, too underexposed... and they will probably be right. I still like it It's what they call a happy accident - my strobe didn't fire (it was still recharging after the previous shot) and my buddy's (very powerful) torch was just in the right spot BTW - this was taken on a mental night dive in the Maldives: we've had white tip sharks hunting, we've had turtles, we've had a sting ray, and we've had lots of free swimming moray eels! Anyways, here's the shot: Best Regards, mike
  2. Hey Lads, Thanks for all the tips! I'm using LR2.1 myself and this is how I have come up with the B&W version of this shot. I really didn't expect anyone to take my post so seriously so as to start working on my image - I'm blown away with your reaction guys, thank you I would still say that I prefer the shot with the black negative space to the right of the picture. I know the Manta is too centered, but you know yourselves, guys things can happen pretty quickly under water... especially when you're watching the show of 14 Mantas having shower on the Manta cleaning station. Steve - I like your idea of using a grad filter - never thought about it, actually. That only goes to show you how little I know about post-processing. Again - thanks a lot for all your kind comments and word of encouragement! Best Regards, mike
  3. Hey Guys, Thanks a lot for your feedback. I wasn't trying to say the other crowd were wrong telling me my image has no impact, I was just using that as a lead-in story for my post Steve - to answer your question, yes I do have a single strobe indeed. Living on this side of the pond means that the DS-125 strobes are really expensive, despite a very good exchange rate between Euro and US$. I bought the new setup (the Nikon D60 + Ikelite housing + flat port + 8" dome + the strobe and also the 10.5 fisheye lens) a week or two before the trip to the Maldives and I tell you, it was a big hit to my wallet I am planning to buy the second DS-125 or a DS-160 (as they seem to have replaced the 125 with it) to add to my kit. I do agree that some of the wide shots tend to be lit on one side and underexposed on the other.. Scubatooth - thanks for your kind comment. I'm glad you like the picture. I have order the print of this particular picture, both on the photo paper and on canvas to see how it comes out. I do agree that it could do with a little more contrast, I did however work on it quite a bit and I bumped up the contrast a lot after converting it to B&W. I guess I didn't want to over-do it In general - I still consider myself to be a newbie and I'm here to learn. I don't, unfortunately, have as many opportunities to enjoy taking pictures underwater as I would like - I do most of my diving in Ireland and most of these are working dives (I work as a dive instructor). I plan to take my camera with me in a week time though as I will be doing some fun diving on the west coast of Ireland - this will be the first cold water experience with that particular kit Hope the viz stays decent, otherwise I will have to revert to macro Anyways - thanks a lot guys for your words of encouragement I really appreciate that! Best Regards, mike
  4. Hello Everyone, This is my second post so far on this forum I have been reading this forum for quite a while and I really like the friendly atmosphere here I'm also really impressed with the expertise level around - hats off! Anyways, I was just wondering if I can ask you for an opinion and comment on one of the pictures I have borught back from the Maldives recently. I have posted it some time ago on one of the photography websites and it was rejected with the comment that it's lacking the impact. I have a sensation that some of the people don't fully get the underwater photography, but at the same time I probably am looking at my own pictures not objectively So - anyone care to share their thoughts? How can I improve my shot of Manta? Does it really have no impact? Is it a bad picture and it's just me being so excited about seeing the manta rays so close (and this one in particular) that I would just love it to be a brilliant picture, but in fact its not? be honest, I take criticism well Thanks for your help! Best Regards, mike (see original on my Flickr page)
  5. Hello This is my first post here on this forum so - Hi Everyone! I'm not the most experienced person here on this forum compared to a lot of other people (there's a lot of folk with more experience and skill here!) but I will try to let you know what works for me. I have never dived in Galapagos, but I have recently come back from the Maldives and the settings I talk about here were the good base line for shooting there. I shoot with Nikon D60 in the Ikelite housing with the 8" dome for wide angle and a flat port for macro. I have used Nikon 12-24DX, Nikon 10.5 fisheye and Nikon 105mm VR micro lenses. I also have a single DS125 strobe which I leave in TTL. I shoot in Manual mode and I have the ISO set to 100. First I would try to get the blue color of the water the way I like it. For this just shoot a couple of frames at the beginning of the dive into the blue, and change the shutter speed. Set the aperture to something that will give you a good depth of field (for wide angle, I would set it to f/5.6 or f/8 to start with). Then set the shutter speed. I would start off 1/125sec and if it's too dark I would go to 1/100, 1/80, 1/60 and so on. If its too bright, go 1/160sec or 1/200. If at some stage you'd need to go too slow (slower than 1/60), try to change the ISO up to 200 instead of going 1/30sec. This will allow you to avoid the motion blur. For macro lens the above would depend whether I'm shooting something really small or really up close (in which case the f/22 or more and full power out of the flash is what you need) or something that's further out (like shooting clown fish from about 0.5m to 1m distance to get them in frame with a bit of anemone; in this case I would set f/8 or f/11 and again, blast them with flash). You would then control your exposure with either the flash power (in TTL you might change the exposure adjustment or you can switch your strobe to manual and have it going at more or less power). You can also try to change the shutter speed to control how much ambient light you have - remember that changing the shutter speed has no effect on the strobe, it only controls the ambient. Changing the strobe controls the exposure (but not the ambient), and changing the aperture controls the exposure for both the strobe and the ambient There's plenty articles here about the flash positioning and I was trying to apply the stuff that was written there, so there's no need for me to repeat that here. Anyways - I hope the above is helpful and that I really didn't make it too complicated. By the way - there's a great site that I read about flash photography. It's not about underwater photography (all stuff they talk about is land photography), but it's all about off-camera flash. You can learn a lot about controlling your exposure and your lights from there. And it turns out, having everything in Manual is actually very easy! check them out: http://www.strobist.com/ Best Regards and good luck in Galapagos, Mike
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