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PeteAtkinson last won the day on October 30 2020

PeteAtkinson had the most liked content!

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About PeteAtkinson

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    Sting Ray
  • Birthday 04/01/1957

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    Phuket, Thailand

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D800, Nikon Z50
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z240

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  1. I will be at Richelieu next week on Smiling Seahorse, 9-13th. Is that the trip you are on?
  2. I am curious about the new (II) version of this lens (with Nikon Z-mount) because it's US$135. It's manual focus. Anyone tried either this or the earlier version?
  3. On APSC surely the 8-15 full frame lens will give the equivalent of 11-21 zoom fisheye without a TC? So almost equivalent to the Tokina on APSC. I compared both at f16 in a camera shop and couldn't see any difference.
  4. Just a word of warning... The on-board flash of the Z50 appears to work only when the fully charged light comes on. So on continuous high it comes to a halt very quickly, even set on manual 1/32 power. And then you have to wait. With a flash plugged into the hotshoe, it will shoot at continuous high. The D800 also has this issue, but has quicker recycling time. So maybe a hotshoe flash circuit board has some merit!
  5. Another size comparison, D800 and Z50. For me the attraction was being able to use the WWL-C rather than a dome and extensions. Having used a 12-24 on a D7000 with a big dome (and the 16-35 on a D800) I would much rather deal with a little barrel distortion (usually imperceptible) than all the grief big domes and extensions bring to the party. The Z50 set up with the WWL-C weighs about 3.5kg less than the D800, 16-35, 230mm glass and extension. The Z50 uses the same sensor as the D500, but has a pop-up flash for optical triggering.
  6. Yes, WWL-C with the 16-50 kit lens. I liked this approach because it gives me high quality in a small light package with an angle of view I like. I don't shoot macro but the WWL-C can be detached from the flat port in about a second. I think that underwater, mirrorless has few advantages, if any, but above water the focus accuracy is more useful than SLR cameras in my opinion. Either the buffer or the flash (triggering optical strobes) seems to limit fast shooting on the Z50 even set to 1/32 power.
  7. I have just downsized from NA-D800 to NA-Z50, a crop sensor mirrorless. The 9" glass dome I had is 3kg, the WWL-C is just over 1 kg. For fisheye I am using the Tokina 10-17 with manual focus in an 8" acrylic dome. Mostly I use it for over/under so manual focus is no disadvantage. I use f16 and focus at about 6m underwater. Yesterday I compared the 10-17 with the Nikkor 8-15 in a camera shop at f16, ISO 200 and a bean bag. I can't tell the difference. New eyes might be a better investment. I intend to get this whole process written up on UWP sometime, but here is a picture of the manual focus mechanism made from a toy helicopter main gear, some drainpipe, a pillar valve top and an Aquatica (with an A to N adapter) dome I didn't mind drilling a hole in.
  8. Just on the question of the dome, I would now choose acrylic every time, since scratches can be polished out and they are much lighter. I owned a 9" glass dome which was great except for the drawbacks of cost, weight and the scratch issue.
  9. Free in February! The ebook Polynesia ~ An Ocean Realm by Pete Atkinson available for download from this Dropbox link: https://www.dropbox.com/s/g8jkf4yz82jyqep/Polynesia - An Ocean Realm EBOOK.pdf?dl=0&fbclid=IwAR0eu0D-3r7t7ZM9pNxVlN35WZWhE6n0VHo5EhJiOjhkctcltYzl5bpeJgY Inspired by the underwater explorer Jacques Cousteau, Pete Atkinson bought an old yacht on the south coast of England in 1982 and sailed to the South Pacific. He had no experience, relevant qualifications, life-raft, radio, GPS (or insurance) but he says, "I had read a lot of books and I had a plastic sextant I had bought at a jumble sale..." He also had a degree in marine zoology. For 20 years he sailed 45000 miles all over the South Pacific having the life of which he had dreamed, diving with whales and sometimes too many sharks. He found adventure above and below the sea aboard a beautiful, but somewhat marginal, wooden yacht! Escaping the rat race is the dream of many, but few achieve it. This book shows that with passion and determination anything is possible, even on a limited budget. Pete made ends meet by shooting pictures underwater - using home-made acrylic camera housings - and writing articles for diving and sailing magazines. The twelve chapters cover French Polynesia, the Cook Islands, Kiribati, Tonga and Pete's favourite, remote Beveridge Reef, where there is no land at all. But it has what he loves most, exceptionally clear water and lots of sharks! Two appendices look at the Moody-built cutter Eila and underwater photography. This is a book not only for those interested in adventure in the ocean, Polynesian life, marine biology, sailing and diving but also those who aspire to escape a humdrum life and become a pirate! About Pete Atkinson. Award-winning Getty Images photographer Pete Atkinson studied marine zoology at Bangor University in North Wales where he learned to dive. His articles have appeared in Cruising World, Classic Boat, Tauchen, Diver, Sportdiver, Dive New Zealand etc and his photos have won many awards, including the Innovation Award at the the 2004 Wildlife Photographer of the Year and the award for "Best British Underwater Photographer" in 1999 and 2001. He now lives in Phuket, Thailand with his wife, photographer Darin Limsuansub.
  10. Recovering from heart surgery meant I couldn't dive all year so I concentrated on swimming pools for fun and created a FB page Phuketpools This picture at Boat Lagoon resort is one of my favourites. 50m vis.
  11. I know this has been discussed endlessly. I hadn't tried potato as a wetting agent until recently (thanks Alex Mustard) and it seemed to work well on a glass 9" dome. Today I tried potato on an 8.5" acrylic dome and it worked poorly; the wetting properties disappeared quickly. I have used spit as a wetting agent in the past, and also Rainex and Lemon Pledge as beading agents. For acrylic what are your favourite remedies for over/under droplets?
  12. I have measured the radius of numerous domes over the years; the Nauticam 8.5" dome is 103mm radius, the 8" Aquatica dome is 101.5mm radius, the Danforth hemispherical compass dome is also 101.5, the Pro 1 dome is 91.5mm radius, the 230mm Nauticam glass dome is 110.3mm radius. Or thereabouts...
  13. About 7 years ago I wanted to buy the Zen 230 glass dome but I was assured that the Nauticam glass was the same, so I bought it. To check, I took a template of the internal radius of my Nauticam dome to Bangkok to see if Douglas Seifert's Zen dome was the same. They seemed identical. A +2 B&W dioptre will improve corners, but also reduce the angle of view. I found I didn't need it with the 230 glass and Nikon 16-35. If the corners are a problem I would try the Sea & Sea Internal Correction lens. If I was doing this again, I would try the Sea & Sea first with the 8.5" acrylic dome which is so much lighter, cheaper and easier to polish if necessary.
  14. Surely the 8-15 on an APS-C sensor makes it almost equivalent to the Tokina 10-17, which is desirable and useful, whereas on FF it has no more utility than a Sigma 15 fisheye unless you like gimmicks.
  15. Thanks Wolfgang for that info! That dome was about 18cm radius. I no longer own it.
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