Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


PeteAtkinson last won the day on February 3

PeteAtkinson had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

36 Excellent

About PeteAtkinson

  • Rank
    Eagle Ray
  • Birthday 04/01/1957

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Phuket, Thailand

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D800, Nikon Z50
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z240

Recent Profile Visitors

9891 profile views
  1. Frankly, I think you should stick with the D7200 and Tokina. If you must upgrade, a D500 would be a better camera and you could keep using the 10-17. That lens gives you useful flexibility on crop-sensor that the 8-15 does not, on full frame. You could use the 8-15 on an APS-C camera like yours but the increase in quality is marginal and not worth the money, in my view. I switched from a D800 to an APS-C mirrorless; its more complicated (I have to remove the port and lens to remove the camera usually). It's slightly less heavy and I was keen to try water contact optics, the WWL-C, which is less than $1000. It's great, and 130 degrees sounds wide, but my Sigma 8-16 is wider and gets more use. You can't use the Tokina 10-17 with mirrorless as the AF doesn't work, so I bought an 8-15 zoom fisheye which does the same job, largely, as the Tokina on a crop sensor. Really, save your money. If you want better quality, go somewhere with clearer water. Check out Greg Lacoeur's work with the Tokina and D500...
  2. Want to upgrade your GoPro or Olympus TG to a DSLR? This could be perfect opportunity to buy quality gear, used very little, at a bargain price! And with the big advantage of an APS-C sensor, the ability to use the Tokina 10-17 zoom fisheye. For $US4000 you would have all you need to produce underwater images professionally, with a Nauticam housing for the Canon 7D with a dome port for the 10-17 and 10-22 lenses and a macro port for the 100mm macro lens. Included are two Inon Z240 strobes with arms, float arms, optical cables, everything. The complete list is: Nauticam 7D housing US$820 £710 45deg viewfinder $735 £636 8.5” acrylic dome port and cover $380 £330 Macro port with cover $218 £188 Extension ring 40mm $218 £188 Canon 7D body $272 £235 3 batteries/charger $27.20 £24 Tokina 10-17mm fish eye $205 £176 Canon EF 100mm macro $136 £120 Canon EF 28mm $95 £84 Canon EFS 10-22mm $82 £72 Inon Z-240 strobes x 2 $600 £518 Strobe mount balls & fibre optic cables $55 £48 Nauticam strobe arms/floats $82 £72 Aluminium hand grips $55 £48 CF memory cards $27.20 £24 Vanguard camera bag $14 £12 Pelican-style travel box 55 x 45 x 28cm $45 £40 If you worry about megapixels, check out Greg Lecouer's work with a 20MP Nikon D500 and the Tokina 10-17! Let me know if you want to upgrade to serious but affordable equipment. I am selling this gear on behalf of a friend who works offshore. I would prefer to sell as a complete package.
  3. I use the WWL-C on a Nikon Z50 with 16-50 kit lens. I experimented with a 2.5 x 58 O-ring to retain the water between the flat port and the WWL-C to see if it was useful for over/under pictures. I couldn't get acceptable results with this. Optically the WWL-C seems fine to me, weighs only a kg and is less than $1000. For most people who travel I think this is an option worth considering. My Sigma 8-16 behind a dome has a wider view and does over/under shots well.
  4. Here's another technique: select your aperture; I use f16 on crop sensor but 22 might be better on FF. Take the camera in the garden with a tripod. Use manual focus. Focus on infinity, take a picture, move focus ring incrementally closer, recording the focus position for each frame. Repeat until you are focussing close. Review the pictures on a monitor. How close can you focus and still get acceptable sharpness in your background at your selected aperture? Tape the lens at this closest position. Try it underwater and see how close things are in focus. Depending on the lens it may be between 0.4m and 0.8m on the lens, or something like that. Find phuketpools on Facebook to see how that works out.
  5. Going for an APS-C camera makes so much sense. You can then shoot almost anything worthwhile with just a Tokina 10-17 zoom fisheye and a 60mm macro. And a small dome will work perfectly with the 10-17. You can pick up this gear cheaply because people think they need mirrorless or full frame. Generally they don't.
  6. I have a180 finder on my Z50 housing which I use all the time, except at night, shooting women in pools. Poor eyesight and high ambient light in shallow water makes the LCD pretty useless for me.
  7. I have a Tokina 10-17 zoom fisheye with Nauticam-compatible zoom gear for US$300 plus e-packet post.
  8. I bought plastic gears from Norelem in Germany and cut a hole in them with a cheap hole-cutter and stuck in a bit of drainpipe.
  9. I went from Nikon D200 (Seacam) to D7000 (Nauticam) to D800 and now back to a crop-sensor Z50. This last is far more complicated to use as you need to remove the port and lens to change a card or battery when using Nikon F lenses. I wanted to try mirrorless and water contact optics - the WWL-C is good, only 1kg and $1000, but it's not really wide enough for my taste at 130 degrees corner to corner. I use a Sigma 8-16 with an FTZ adapter which is wider and good for over/under. I use it with the 8.5" acrylic dome. The Z50 focus doesn't support screw type autofocus so I can't use the Tokina 10-17. I relented and bought a Nikon 8-15 fisheye which is useful on a crop sensor, almost imitating a Tokina. Wide rectilinear on full-frame is heavy and expensive and a pain for travel. Second-hand housings you can find for 50% of new. I think a D500 with a Tokina 10-17 and small dome is hard to beat, and if you want better quality, pay for better water.
  10. Thanks Tom and Tim. One reason maybe is that the custom 6" is hemispherical whereas the Nauticam 8.5" is not; so the no parallax point of the lens sits in front of the centre of curvature of the bigger dome in order not to vignette. I suspect with hemispherical domes of different sizes there would be no difference in angle of view.
  • Create New...