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PeteAtkinson

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Everything posted by PeteAtkinson

  1. Thanks guys. I hadn’t heard of anyone else having much success with the Nikonos re focus registration. I’m glad you have! The circular fisheye was a complete turn-off for me; a gimmick when a full frame equivalent of the 10-17 would have sold so many more. What a missed opportunity.
  2. I'm looking at the new Nikon APS-C Mirrorless, yet to be announced and thinking how light and compact it might be with a Tokina 10-17 as a "jump in the water, there's something interesting" camera. Or perhaps the new Sigma full frame camera adapted to a Nikonos 15mm lens. (Pawel?) I only shoot wide angle these days and my lovely Nikon D800 in Nauticam is too heavy for me now. I don't want to go to a smaller sensor than APS-C. Any suggestions or ideas?
  3. I had forgotten about this earlier thread (thanks rollin) from 5 years ago when I was trying the same thing. Neither the X-sync socket nor the hotshoe work if the pop-up flash is elevated enough to fire. Push the flash down a bit and they will work, but the on-board flash will not. Anyone know if there's a small mechanical switch inside controlling this and if it would be safe to disable it?
  4. A problem has arisen! When the pop-up flash is up, the hot shoe doesn't work!! I need both to work at the same time. Anyone know how to resolve this?
  5. One thing to watch out for; a 10mm coarse hex machine screw runs out of thread before the head. So you can't tighten it enough in a Nauticam hole to compress an O-ring sitting in a groove cut under the head of the machine screw. Either use a big fat O-ring or better, run extra thread right up under the head of the machine screw, so it will tighten sufficiently on an O-ring that better fits the groove.
  6. That's true, but at 20 times the cost. But thanks for making me aware of this option. It seems there is no room in the housing for an X-synch cable plugged into the camera, so I will be using a modified hot shoe to get flash sync to the Nikonos bulkhead connector.
  7. I needed an extra hole for a radio flash trigger cable in my D800 housing. I trigger two Inon Z240s with optical cables but the single flash bulkhead is filled with a Leak Sentinel. I figured I don't really need the control which changes metering from matrix, centre-weighted and spot, so maybe I could use that as a cable entry? But then you run into the problem of running a cable from the back of the housing to the camera in the front. Which is tricky. But the Leak Sentinel can be anywhere in the housing... The metering control gland has a 10mm coarse thread on it. Remove the control by levering off the plastic disk on top of the control knob which exposes an Allen head machine screw. Remove this, and the knob. If you now remove the gland using circlip pliers, you will be able to remove the control rod inside without removing any of the adjacent control which otherwise gets in the way. I had an old Leak Sentinel and took this and a 10mm coarse thread hex machine screw to a local workshop. They cut an o-ring groove under the head of the bolt, rounded it off, cut the part from the Leak Sentinet the right length (12mm) and welded the bits together. A hole drilled through the bolt allows the housing to be evacuated through this fitting. It cost ten quid. I had an old Nikonos socket with the 16mm thread that screws directly into the bulkead hole in the front part of the housing and this is where I will wire a coil cable with a floating box with a radio trigger for topside flashes. Inside the housing I will have a cable running to the hotshoe or the X-sync socket of the camera. The Leak Sentinel seems fine in the new position but the fitting could have been made a bit shorter without the Leak Sentinel interefering with the housing.
  8. White balance makes no difference when you are shooting raw. You need shutter speeds faster than a strobe will synch, so forget strobes with dolphins most of the time. I like 1/640th for shutter speed, but that will often mean your ISO will be about 640 too. Forget Magic Filters for this use. (But there are a lot of people on here with more experience at this than I have...)
  9. Anyone got an Athena 170 dome? Can you measure the internal radius? (PM me if you want to know how to do this...)
  10. Travelling with the Nauticam 230 dome is a pain. The 6" cast acrylic Ritchie dome I made is not as good but can be used with Sigma 15 and Nikon 18mm without extension. I am considering a 170 dome. Anyone compared the Zen and Athena domes? I would be using it with the 15mm Sigma (with compromised placement since the 170 is not a hemisphere, but fisheye's are forgiving) and a wide rectilinear, probably 18mm Nikon. If and when I return to crop-sensor from a D800 I will use the Tokina 10-17 with it. Thoughts?
  11. Claire, when testing strobe cables with a multi-meter, check, obviously for low impedance along each conductor. But also check for infinite impedance between the conductors. I have cables that got dampness within, and checking on a high range showed slight conductivity between some wires. And it produced all kinds of headaches until I discovered this and changed the cable.
  12. Considering how you use your pictures, and that the D300 is a great camera (and spare bodies are available cheaply) I am wondering why you feel the need to upgrade at all? If you go full-frame you will likely miss the 10-17 Tokina very much (I do). Sure the D500 is a great camera but do you need that added resolution or other features? Even if you keep your current system, a vacuum check is a great idea. I use Vivid Sentinel. It sounds to me like you have the ideal system for what you do.
  13. Info for Nikon D750, D800, 810, 850 owners... I was always irritated by having to dab the shutter release to activate the command dials to change shutter speed and aperture. Matija Kljunak on the D850 Facebook page came up with a solution I didn't know about, namely: "The solution was in custom settings. Using this setting the problem went away and now I can change the aperture immediately after shooting: Custom Settings>Controls>f4 Customise Command Dials>Menus and Playback>On(Image review excluded)." On the D800 it's f9 and the D750 it's f5.
  14. Anyone got a 13mm paperweight they would part with for a modest sum? I have an experiment I'd like to try with some 13mm bits.
  15. Another vote for Leak Sentinel and Miso. Simple and works. I can't understand why we didn't have these on housings 40 years ago.
  16. I don't shoot macro and currently lug around a Nauticam D800 housing -which is great, but big. Rectilinear wide interests me much more than fisheye. Has anyone been using a Nauticam A7 housing with the Nikonos 15mm successfully and consistently? Does focus peaking work well?
  17. I tried this the other day and I am not convinced it works well. Using a large Lens Align and the small one, it seemed, for example, that the correct AF fine tune value for one lens (measured the conventional way) was +2, yet Auto AF fine tune consistently gave a value of -7. This looked wrong using the Lens Align. Anyone else tried this and found discrepancies?
  18. I don't like having a vacuum system, I LOVE it!! It means you can be even lazier about checking O-rings than normal. I have a Leak Sentinal in a Nauticam and wouldn't be without it.
  19. And in a pool... The bottom section is scaled in Photoshop to fit the top section.
  20. Hi Pedro, I imagine with a fisheye I would need to shuffle the lifejacket back a bit not to vignette, but these are with 16-35 and split +2.
  21. I'm hoping to be in mangroves with clearish water at the weekend and wanted a way to support a Nauticam D800 housing with the 16-35 and 230mm dome at roughly the right level for half and half shots. This inexpensive Pool School life vest from Toys R Us (in Phuket) even has holes for the housing handles. I added a hard foam collar to the port extension for a little extra buoyancy.
  22. Just a head-up: Cokin have stopped making the P112 split field +2 diopter, the glass of which fits a 77mm filter mount perfectly. www.fredericksphoto.com in Canada managed to get a couple, and I bought one - they still have one left. I think +2 is about perfect for a Nauticam 230mm dome if you are photographing something the same distance from the camera, above and below.
  23. Does the Nauticam gear for the Nikkor 12-24mm DX lens work perfectly with the Nikkor 10-24mm? Anyone tried it? Thanks!
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