Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


NEwreckdiver last won the day on November 26 2020

NEwreckdiver had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About NEwreckdiver

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Salem, MA

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D850
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Ikelite DS-161

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thank you, Pete! This is very helpful. Apologies, I did not see this until now (I guess I didn't have notifications turned on). I think I am probably right on the edge at 14 mm with the 8" dome with 63.5mm extension. I will have to try and do this experiment for the 10" S&S dome. I did get a S&S 10" dome on the housing with 59.4 mm extension. The lens doesn't protrude as much into the dome as it does with the 8" but it looks close to me. This was my much cruder experiment anyway! Thanks for the help! Best, Heather
  2. Hi Chris- Thanks for the additional information - yes this does make sense. I didn't consider using multiple extension rings and the possibility I suppose that the lens could need to reach deeper into the dome thus using a shorter extension depending on the shape of the dome. The measurements you suggest do make sense and I will do that exercise. I think this is what my original question was getting at - and this is what I need to determine. Thanks again! Thanks, Heather
  3. Thanks for the reply and information. I will review the port charts as well, but that’s helpful. Yes, I was also thinking about the dome itself and S&S appears fairly flat in the stock photo but this is another potential complication. Unfortunately I don’t think the next size up or down aquatica extension rings will work well in combination. If I used the 2.5” extension with the adapter the lens will fall short of the dome. I have an older acrylic ~10” Subal dome that I didn’t realize was such a rarity now that I used on my very first D70s subal system through to my previous AD D7200 set up. I must have gotten very lucky it always worked well. I am very familiar with the floaty dome issue and I did have to add some weight to take the curse off it as you mentioned. But I had much less corner blur so I felt it was with the hassle. I’m planning to put the other dome on for a trial but the shape is a little different so it might not compare well to the S&S. Thanks again, Heather
  4. Hi All- I have a Nikkor AF-S 14-24 mm full frame lens that I am using on a Aquatica Nikon D850 and I often shoot at 14 mm. I am using the 48458 2.5" / 63.5 mm extension ring with an AD 8" acrylic dome. I want a larger dome but I do not want to use a glass dome. I would like to use the larger Port 240 Sea & Sea acrylic dome and I have the adapter. I also have another shorter Aquatica extension ring I used on a different set up. The adapter ring + extension ring 18462 = 2.34" / 59.4 mm which is pretty close to 2.5" / 63.5 mm but not quite. I am wondering how I can determine the acceptable "range" for the optical center of the lens and whether this dome and this combined extension ring is acceptable. Any thoughts or suggestions? Is this a math problem or a guess? I am not sure how precise this has to be and before I spend the money on the dome, I want to know whether ~4 mm could make a difference such that I do not proceed. Thanks in advance, Heather
  5. Hi Everyone- Just a quick update - it seems we've found the problem. Norma at Aquatica did some troubleshooting with me and pinpointed what appears to be the issue. The rubber gear that moves the command dial inside the housing is able to spin on the shaft. It should not spin. It needs glue, and ultimately replacement. So, hopefully this solves it. I also got a few other pro tips from Norma (she is amazing!) on how to manage having such a heavy lens in the housing. They've been really great and hopefully I'll be sorted soon. Heather
  6. Thanks for these suggestions too. I contacted Aquatica and they are consulting with their design engineer. I didn’t pull a vacuum when I did the dark room experiment so I will repeat. The saga continues...
  7. Yes, on the last dive I was only able to get down to 1/50 when I was at 30m and inside a wreck with dimmer light. It could go up although I didn’t test to see how high. When I got to 6m on deco the dial worked fine up and down but there was also plenty of ambient light. The next day on another dive when I disabled the flash it worked fine as low as I wanted it to go at 30m in very dark conditions. But I only used the camera for about 10 min vs 40 min the day prior - if that matters. Today I set up the camera in the housing with strobes in a dark room with a dim flashlight on the other side of the room to simulate darker dive conditions. The command dial worked fine and I could meter as low as I wanted. I agree with you the mechanical wheel either works or doesn’t. This is what makes me think it’s a setting issue. But then why can’t I replicate it? Thanks for brainstorming!
  8. Thanks. I did see this setting but I assumed it would only apply for programmed auto or aperture priority modes not manual. Is my read correct or would this also be a setting relevant for manual mode? The last sentence makes me think maybe it does apply ... BUT the default was set for 1/60 and I was able to get down to 1/50 on a dive where I had issues. ”This option determines the slowest shutter speed available when using front- or rear-curtain sync or red-eye reduction in programmed auto or aperture-priority auto exposure modes (regardless of the setting chosen, shutter speeds can be as slow as 30 s in shutter-priority auto and manual exposure modes or at flash settings of slow sync, slow rear-curtain sync, or red-eye reduction with slow sync).”
  9. Thanks. I have tried everything and cannot recreate it on the bench. We've looked over the control arm to see if it was slipping on the knob and it isn't - it's a flat face that the set screw comes into. It is weird it didn't happen with the flash off, the one difference was the camera wasn't in use for very long because the conditions were so poor so maybe this is a function of time too. I emailed Aquatica. Definitely open to all ideas and suggestions! Thanks, Heather
  10. Thanks. I am going to contact Aquatica. The thought of sending this back to them makes me want to scream into a pillow. :-) I have not tried the other modes - it's a good suggestion, but I have to be underwater, see the problem, and think of the idea then or already have it in mind so I haven't had enough opportunities yet to do that. And the dive where it did not appear to happen when I had the flash off it was just a few minutes before I put the camera away (the vis was 3-5'). Heather
  11. Thanks, yes, this is a very reasonable suggestion.
  12. I just recently upgraded to a Nikon D850 in an Aquatica housing. Using Ikelite DS161 strobes, non TTL. I am having a strange problem and I cannot seem to pin it down. I'll try to summarize it, and any advice/insights are appreciated: - I am shooting in manual mode - When I am in darker lighting conditions, on the bottom, the command dial is unresponsive to adjusting the metering to slower shutter speeds. For example, I cannot go slower 1/50 when I want to go down to 1/20 or less. I can adjust it up to faster shutter speeds though. - It works in shallow water (20') and on the surface - I cannot replicate the problem on the surface. Even pushing other buttons I can't simulate a lockout. - As an experiment, I turned off "flash" in the camera settings and took the camera down to 110' in very dark water and the dial adjusted fine to whatever I wanted to meter to, but I had no strobes working as a result of disabling flash. I only did this for a few minutes, not the entire dive so I can't rule out this happens over a longer period of time under pressure. I have considered that maybe this is a button issue locking me out, but where it worked fine during the dive with the flash off, it makes me think this is a setting issue. Could it be a short in my sync cable? A setting in the D850 camera for exposure or flash? I've been pouring over the D850 manual and getting nowhere. Any thoughts or suggestions? Before I contact Aquatica I wanted to rule in/out a mechanical issue. This seems too inconsistent to be a mechanical/button issue. Thanks for any help! Heather
  13. Hello - I've been a member for awhile, but never posted or did the intro before! I am an avid wreck and cave/mine diver and enjoy photography. Been a Nikon user, most recently moving to the D850. Located in the Boston, MA area. PS: I apparently have done a new member intro before looking back on my posts - lol. Can't hurt to do it again! :-) Thanks, Heather Knowles
  14. Thanks, all. Ultimately the housing had to go back to Aquatica where it is currently being evaluated/repaired. Thanks, Heather
  15. Broken toy alert... I have a new D7200 housing - and I do have an email in Aquatica on what to do next, but I am hoping to find quick solutions... I developed an issue, not sure how, with one of the buttons sticking. This is one of the buttons on the back of the housing. On the first photo of the exterior it is the button on the left at 9 o'clock. The button would depress but not come back. It seemed it was binding on something. We took the arm off and attempted to clean it, lube it and when we pulled the post, it appeared bent. Not sure how that happened. While attempting to straighten it, we broke it. I wouldn't dare use the housing in the water because I am not sure the c clamp will hold since that's where it's broken. If it lets go, the housing will flood. See interior shot - the arm is removed so you can just see the post with the screw in it. While I am waiting to hear back, does anyone have any suggestions on any dealers that might have these parts - a new button/post, at minimum? Thanks, Heather
  • Create New...