DB48

Thank you very much for your time. I wish you luck with your sale.

Hello, I'am located in San Diego, Ca. What are you asking for the camera, lens & complete housing (port, focus ring, etc) only? No strobes or associated equipment for strobes nor the tray. Thank you, D

Hello, I may be interested in your Nauticam housing w/port, camera & lens only. No strobes, arms, tray or brackets etc. If you are interested please contact me. Where is the camera located at for shipping purposes? Thank you, D

Thank you very much for all your replies. I greatly appreciate each of them!! It appears that I have to do more research as to what lens will work for my particular situation and to think-I thought this would be easy & simple-ignorant me!!! As of now the idea of a dome still does not feel right for me. My main problem is that I live full time in Baja and there are no shops here that will allow me to view what is available and what will work for the A6000, it’s E-mount system & my dive style. A question for all of you Sony mirrorless users: What medium size wide-angle lens (range 16mm to 20mm) would you recommend for sharpness and speed? My first choice is to go with a zoom but I am not married to this lens configuration. I will also consider a fixed lens. Please remember that purchasing a $1000 lens is not within my budget. Thank you once again, D I certainly will look at the Oly 12-50mm zoom.

Thank you very much for your reply. From the very few posts about the 16-50mm that I have read your observations are spot on. It appears as if I may have to give more consideration to the Nikonos lenses. I really want to retain as much of the compact features of the RX-100 hence the A6000 without a dome. Thank you once again, D

Hello, I currently use a Sony RX-100 I in a Nauticam housing employing natural light only. I am considering upgrading to A Sony A-6000 w/16-50mm kit lens in a Nauticam housing with a flat port. The question I have for users of the Sony E-mount lenses is. How does the 16-50mm kit lens compare to the 28-100mm lens, on the RX, as far as sharpness and auto focus speed are concerned? I am a freediver and my subjects, 90% of the time, are Pelagic fish approximately 24” to 72” in length & normally do not come any closer to the camera that 5-10ft. I do not need a large wide-angle lens with a dome but I do want a lens that focuses fast & has good depth of field. I fear that a wide-angle lens with a dome will make the subjects appear too small. As my bottom time is limited to one breath and when the fish come in-things can happen very quickly-it is important to have an automatic camera system with minimal settings. I shoot aperture priority most of the time so I can only concentrate on focusing and composure. The Nikonos lenses are manual and changing f-stops & shutter speeds by hand would introduce steps that I believe would be cumbersome & slow, thus missing many opportunities, so I have discounted those lenses. I have read & researched all of the post concerning the E-mount lenses that I could find but most of the subject posts pertain to Macro and Close focus wide-angle lenses, which do not suit my purpose, hence my inquiry. Thank you everyone for you responses in advance. D

Hello, I have a Sony TRV-900 (recently serviced and has never been used since the service) with a Light Motion "Bluefin" housing (includes standard and wide angle lenses). The system is in excellent condition. If interested please contact me. The system is located in So. California. D

Hello, First off I want to thank each & every one of you who responded to my inquiries. It is quite apparent that I need all the help I can get. I will respond to each of your recommendations in one post to minimize viewer confusion-or at least I hope so. Twistah: I have tried to use the contrast feature but it seems that I have a heavy hand!! The foggy conditions that you speak of are a feature of the typical California visibility. Much like the worlds opinion of the California culture!! Just a half hearted joke! I really appreciate your suggestion and I will attempt to employ the contrast feature more in the future. Leendert: Thank you this is exactly what I was hoping for. I have no experience with cropping and your suggestions are well received. Again I need all the suggestions I can get. Scott: Thank you for the compliment and yes I agree about the Ray but I really did not have time to ask him/her if they would reverse course. My humor again. I have many pictures of schools of White Sea Bass but again the California visibility is very limiting. If you or any others would like to view some I will post addition photos. One day I hope to have the fish and the visibility cooperate. Kokopedal: I find that freediving often offers one the opportunity to get much closer to pelagic "wild" fish than a person could get while SCUBA diving. Please, I really do not wish to initiate a debate over what method is better, it is just my personal observation. The shot was taken in the RAW format. I just do not know how to post a RAW picture in Flikr. Every time I tried it would reject it as to large a file. Call me a computer Dinosaur!! I readily admit to it To all I will continue to post pictures of Pelagic fish for your comments. My next question is would I really see an appreciable increase in color enhancement with a Magic filter in my local waters? I only shoot with ambient light. DB

Hello All, This is my first attempt at u/w fixed image photography with image editing. The edited picture was taken in California (Channel Islands) while freediving (breath hold) and the fish are White Sea Bass and a Bat ray. For those who are not familiar with these fish they are very spooky and hard to get close to. The visibility was around 20ft, the camera settings were ISO 200, Ambient light (very cloudy), Shutter Priority 1/80s, Auto focus (continuous servo), Center point meter reading, Auto White Balance and the lens setting was wide angle. The camera is a G10 housed within a factory case. I cropped the lower and right side portions of the photo. My question is should I also crop the upper fish out of the picture and how do I eliminate the white line that is running down the middle right portion of the picture? Or can it be eliminated at all? This line is a piece of thin kelp (commonly know as eel grass). With this photo I used "INFRAN" for editing software. In the future I will be using Canon's editing software that is included with the camera. Thank you in advance for any advice as I will need all I can get for future photos!! DB Link to Photo: http://www.flickr.com/photos/singlebreath/3603188871/

Hello Fred, Thank you very much for the information about the different filters. This was exactly what I was hoping for when I initiated this post. I would very much like to use a glass screw on filter instead of "tape on". In my situation a screw on filter solution is much more desirable. I will research out your information Thank you again. DB

Hello All, Thank you for all of the responses. My concern about using the Magic filter was having to constantly re-tape it onto the front of the camera lens each time I put the camera into the u/w housing but it seems the consensus is “not too much of a big deal”. I will get an original Magic filter and try it out. If I like using filters I will probably go to a glass UR-PRO filter. I would attach it by the modifications that Brian M posted on 7-11-08 in “DIY projects forum”. Excellent-simple. Thank you for posting it!! I have written to UR-PRO filters asking what they recommend for the water conditions that I shoot in and what filter of theirs that may equate to an original Magic filter but as of this post no answer yet. I will let you guys know what they say. Thanks again DB

Hello All, I am using a Canon G-10 with a Canon WP-DC28 housing. I use the camera while freediving primarily at the California Northern Channel Islands. My normal subjects are pelagic fish (White Sea Bass and Yellowtail). The water clarity ranges between a green 3-4 meters to blue10-20 meters. Depth range will be around 3-10 meters. I would like to use a filter to enhance the colors. My main concern about using the original Magic filter is installing the small Magic filter to the lens by tape every time I place the camera in the housing. My question: Does anyone know what glass screw on filter that has approximately the same filtering properties of the original Magic filter? Thank you in advance for your replies. DB

Hello all, I just purchased a Canon G10 a week ago. I would like to be able to push the shortcut button once only to WB-in M, Av, or Tv modes-is this possible? I have set the WB shortcut button using the Custom 1 designation. Now when I activate the shortcut button I see in the monitor a prompt that tells me to use the “DISP” button. When I push the "DISP" button the camera will WB, then I press the "FUNC/SET" to exit prompts. I then have the entire monitor dedicated to the subject at hand and can take the picture. These steps were outlined in the owner’s manual (pages 144 & 154). My question is there any way to set the camera in Custom 1 so I can just push the shortcut button and the camera will automatically WB without having to go through the additional steps of pushing the "DISP" and "FUNT/SET" buttons? I have talked to Canon tech and the guy was apologetic but really not too helpful. It is my understanding that the G9 had this capability (shortcut one button WB feature). I say this from reading pasts G9 posts-here at wetpixel-describing this shortcut WB feature. Any help would greatly be appreciated. For me as I freedive only (California Channel Is) and take pictures of pelagic fish the less buttons I have to push the better. One other question. I am using a Canon WP-DC28 housing and would like to use a Magic filter. My gut feeling is telling me to attach the filter to the inside of the housing and not to the camera lens proper. This way I can take the camera out of the case and immediately use the camera. I have gone to the Magic filter website for installation instructions but they only address the mounting of the filter in this way by stating "use tacky tape". If anybody has attached the filter material to the inside of the housing how did you do it so the filter was firmly and evenly attached? By this I mean-no spaces between it and the housing so there is no possibilities of distortions and then not have the tape intrude into the picture frame? Remember the G10 has a 28mm wide angle lens. Thank you in advance for any and all replies. D

For Sale Light & Motion Blue fin video housing with Sony TRV 900 video camera (1) Sony DCR TRV 900 3 chip video camera with two batteries. Only 2 hrs of total record and play back time on camera since a complete camera service was performed. (1) Light & Motion Blue fin video housing with two Light & Motion lenses (One wide angle & one Normal) (1) Polarizing filter and AV jacks are included. This camera and housing has been used for video filming during freediving only. This set up has never been below 70 ft. and is in very good condition. I am selling this outfit to pursue still photography. I am asking $2150.00 or trade towards a Seas & Sea D80 housing set up. Please email me and I will forward pictures of the housing, camera and accessories. I have all receipts concerning the camera and housing. The camera and housing are located in Ventura California. Thank You.

Hello, I am new to this forum and currently thinking of purchasing a Canon G-10 with a Canon WP-DC28 housing. I will be using the camera for wide angle work mainly. I freedive only and the primary subjects that I will be shooting are California Yellowtail and White Sea Bass in typical visibilities between 15-50ft. Many of the shots will be in low light situations (kelp canopy) so a small camera set up without strobes is very advantageous. I will also be using a Magic filter (green and blue) depending on the situation. My question is has anyone used the G-10 with the factory housing yet and if so what are your findings. Thank you very much in advance for your comments.