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About Mucksavage

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 40D, 100mm and 17 - 85mm
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Ikelite DS-125 + DS160
  1. Ha! Well diving full of rum is the main thing. Actually it seems to be a combination of things. I went through all the settings in my camera and made sure everything on my 40D and housing should be as they seem. Secondly I have had a habit recently of switching between TTL and Manual - I've shot mainly on the latter but over the last few dives have learnt to trust the former and that has helped. As remedial as it sounds I maneuvered my strobe arms to eek out every last inch (or millimetre) getting my strobes out parallel with the lens which probably gave me an important amount of light for certain subjects. I also removed my diffusers and was surprised that this gave me a significant and immediate improvement. As advised above I will concede some ISO but with the above I generally get to stick on 200. Finally, I've also been luckier in my diving in that I have managed some good dives with friends where I can stay on one anemone as long as I like, working the camera without worrying about a queue of other snappers or guides disappearing into the blue. I still find the AF pretty slow but that is macro I suppose. Cheers!
  2. Thanks to all for your help. I seem to be getting results - in fact taking the diffusers off the strobes also really helped too. Cheers MS
  3. Well it depends what I'm shooting. For example a Ghost pipe fish wont fit in frame unless I back off. I seem to be making headway. Better lighting yesterday -always room for improvement. Nextwo - do you use manual or autofocus?
  4. Thanks Ceranthius - can you help clarify this - On Ikelite the housing has built in strobe functions - including a TTL and Manual setting. So if I have my strobes set to TTL I have the strobe setting in the housing on TTL. However if I choose to dial off TTL on the strobes, whether for effect, exposure or whatever, and say I dial both strobes down to half settings - does that mean that I then need to also change the strobe setting in the housing to 'M'?? I think that's what you mean and it sounds right.
  5. Hi Steve Distance was about 1m - same synch cords - everything as per a dive. TTL seems to work on different apertures, distances etc so that is god news. I think it might either have something to do with the internal flash settings or indeed Cerianthus' post below might be bang on. However I really need to tst again underwater to put all the detective work to the test. No rum for breakfast then . . Thanks again PS - My internet more sporadic now!
  6. Hi Steve Just ran some initial (and slightly rushed) dry tests with strange results. All in my room, curtains closed so lowish light. Took shots of the same thing - all at 125th on f22. With strobes on 1/8th, 1/4 and 1/2 - all very underexposed. On TTL - perfect exposure . . . . . strobes on full - black screen! Happy that TTL seemed to nail it (although didn't underwater but at least I can be optimistic when I dive in the next day or 2) but black on full??? Something is afoot . . . I will do more extensive tests when I get back from the city a little later but what are your thoughts on that? Just to say - I use Ikelite DS160 and DS125 with the former on the supposed primary end of the Ikelite Dual Synch cord. Inside the housing the switch is set to DS125 (as the other option is DS200 and Ikelite advised me on this). Much more inclined to think strobes might be at the root of this (well obviously I am but you know what I mean . . .)
  7. Will do and thanks again. Incidentally - I did rum some tests yesterday with the camera and lens - no housing or strobes. I found that even a subject in direct light was coming out quite dark from f14 on. Also not sure if you're Ikelite Steve but are you using manual focus with the 100mm or only AF? Cheers.
  8. Simple and solid advice Steve. I will do precisely this on Monday when I am reunited with my housing. And yes I am in The Philippines where the Tanduay rum is about 2 bucks a bottle!!!
  9. I have been giving TTC a good run but have tried manual a few times with poorer results. That's interesting that you can shoot f16 on 1/250th. There is simply no way I would get anything but a black frame on that combo. Could it be something I have done wrong with the camera and how its speaking to the strobes? I have had a niggling feeling that where once I thought my strobe work was going very well - it might leave a little to be desired. As mentioned I have taken 5000+ pics with the Sigma 17 - 70 and have done plenty of macro with it (not 1:1) with it and the lighting was fine. I really thought that now I was shooting with the 100mm my shots would go to the next level. They did - one below!!
  10. Hi All. I'm not so much a beginner with UW photography but I am brand new diving with me Canon 100mm macro lens - 3 dives in all and it's been tough! I am a Canon 40D user with Ikelite housing and strobes (DS160 and DS125). I have been shooting quite well for some months with a Sigma 17-70mm lens. I think I am OK lighting for macro and WA thanks to that lens' range. Now however I am mid trip and now got my 100m macro lens and port with me. I've struggled to get results. I know macro requires smaller apertures but even with half decent strobes I can't seem to get anything but a black shot on virtually anything lower then F8. I've been very frustrated as I can't get a crisp shot on F5.6 (DOF is just too small) which seems to be all that exposes right. I'm keeping my ISO at 100 or 200. I just did a dive with a friend who shot with the Nikon 60mm and took everything on f22 with nice results. I thought it was maybe a lens fault but I'm sure it's the photographer. Any tips or advice on how to maximise the 100mm? Cheers
  11. Quick question - has anyone used the 60mm Canon macro lens with the 100mm Ikelite port. I have the 100mm macro lens and ikelite port and have the chance of getting the 60mm at a good price. However I am in the middle of the trip and only would get it if I could operate it within my current set up. Would an extension tube make a difference. A rushed question but any advice, experience would be great. Cheers.
  12. Hi All I have a strange mystery with my gear and am looking for advice and help. I have a Canon 40D and Ikelite Housing and have just shot 5000 pics with a Sigma lens. No story there. I have just switched lens and port to a Canon 100m Macro lens and Ikelite flat port. I took it for its first dive - all fine on entry but as I got lower I could not autofocus or take a picture. In fact I could not review shots or get any camera buttons to function. After messing around I found that ALL the Automatic settings work - Sport, Portrait etc and give me full auto camera functions. However as soon as I switch to P, TV, AV or M - nothing. I took it for a second dive - same thing but this time I realised that at 6m I can shoot on Manual, change ISO, review shots etc. At 6.5 metres and below I cannot. Only Auto settings. I took the camera out, and gave it a gentle shake and possible something is loose under the mode dial - however when I flick the built in flash the little rattle is gone so it may be just the way its made. Has anyone any advice, insight or explanations for this? Its bizarre that all manual modes are gone, not some, and all autos work, not some if there was a bit of debris under the dial. Its also strange how precisely the problem kicks in at 6.5m Yours frustratingly MS
  13. I am trying and failing to get standard issue zoom clamps and gears sleeves to work with my sigma 17-70 as issued by Ikelite. Has anyone any experience of stretching Ikelite zoom clamps so the springs stretch and it loses its tautness. Its the only reason I can think they don't work. Thanks MS
  14. Pretty sure. I also got both sets and both zoom clamps have a bigger circumference then the zoom ring on the Sigma lens. I had originally and mistakenly tried to mount these zoom clams on a Canon 17 - 85mm before realising that this lens has a built in mechanism in its housing. Could I have stretched them? A spring is a spring because it recoils so I assume they are still the same circumference. Has anyone experienced a 'stretching' of the zoom clamps? Jeff - do you put the clamp on the already fitted lens or do you stick everything onto the lens before attaching it to the housed camera? thanks
  15. Hi WetPixelites After reading many forums on this site I have register in order to ask the most remedial inaugural question . . . I’m the brand new owner of a an Ikelite housing for a Canon 40D and I am trying to assemble it with a Sigma 17 - 70 lens. When I got to put the Ikelite zoom clamp on it is a lot bigger then the diameter of the lens. OK so you simply add the rubber strips supplied so it can grip the zoom ring? Correct but it seems to need the fattest two in order to have a decent grip - thus making it impossible to fit it in the gear sleeve! Can someone please explain to me what I am missing? I haven't even managed to get the extended port and Dome Assembly on with camera in place yet. Thanks
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