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Have had a set of YS-D1's since forever, one of them seems busted and wondering what I can do. A year ago this particular strobe would work sporadically (fine testing pre dive but sporadic at depth during the dive) so I thought it was a faulty optical cable, but I replaced cables and it worked fine for a bit but after a few more dives recently it now only goes into red/green alternate blinking mode with full batteries. Also upon closer inspection, though the battery compartment seems fine with no flooding issues at all, I noticed some water lines on the side around the front of the flash tube, even though there are no noticeable cracks, just wear and tear. Any suggestions as to how to possibly salvage this strobe? Most recovery techniques I'm familiar with are for battery compartment related floods but in this case I am wondering if there is anything I can do. I do not dive or shoot as much as before so not rushing out to upgrade strobes yet - even brought out old inon Z220s and tested them but loved the D1's for a long time so wondering what options there are.

how about in terms of # + size of carry-on? ie taking a medium-size laptop+lens bag along with a big backpack for housing. i havent taken a US domestic flight in some time, and just thinking ahead for JFK-LAX flight i'll be taking for a trip later this year on AA (economy and booked as one-way separately). For HKG: note the critical thing is the bag size right before you go through security/immigration. I used to carry a slightly "taller" backpack and got sent back to the counter (where it was weighed and I had to make noise) all the time before getting a smaller one. (no issues with CX, Air Pacific, MAS, SQ, Cebu Pacific even). I am hearing that Phillipine Air routinely checks carry on recently though. Intra-asia Ive also had no issues in Singapore, KL, Male, Jakarta, Manila. MAS also quite generous for economy checkin so long as you say "diving equipment" (total 32kg))

For optimal corner sharpness on 10-24 dx, anyone know if a diopter needed if using an 8" acrylic Nauticam Dome? Heard somewhere that +2 was best with a glass dome but wondering if anyone have experience with specifically an 8" acrylic

hi, a bit new to color profiles/camera calibration. I've been using LR for a while but with D70 nefs, now using D7000. Noticing that the LR interpretation of D7000 nefs can differ quite a bit more than before. (as compared to the incamera jpeg/preview). Before with D70 there was definitely a difference but not nearly as big, I think.. Tried selecting "camera neutral/camera vivid etc.." in LR camera profiles but never came close to the incamera jpeg, which on some shots looked a lot better. 1) any general recommendations for workflow/setup for raws out there? again I'm pretty noob when it comes to calibration/profiles... 2) also is it possible to fix photos already imported in lightroom? ie is there a way the camera profile function in LR3 works to be able to very closely approximate in camera D7000 jpeg? This way i can avoid resorting/cataloging/rating my last two d7000 trips etc... i saw some similar earlier posts but didn't quite get a clear answer so apologies if its something obvious i'm missing here. Will definitely investigate more on my own but I figure with the appeal of D7000 perhaps some experienced users here have a concise suggestion?

thanks, any suggestions as to how to carry these underwater? as i dont think they come in any special cases that can hook onto one's bc or etc.

Very specific question, but using this setup (10-17 + 1.4tc + small dome on cropped sensor), would you find it lacking in shooting big/medium stuff? ie sharks and the like? I'll be doing a bunch of shark-feed dives later this month and contemplating just bringing small dome instead of larger one. I figure there will be no overunders or whatnot - so will the above setup suffice?

hi all, i've been using 2x z220S for sometime. not looking to move away from inon but do want new strobes for new d7000 rig, mainly for STTL with optical trigger. if it was easy to just sell 220/buy 240s at a decent price I'd do that, but i'd imagine its not. Also, when I bought my 220s just before 240 released, and considering all the changes in DSLR world with video and etc, I'd like to see a new release of inon's top strobe before upgrading moreover s2000 looks smaller and compact and pretty powerful, and since sTTL would mostly be for macro work anyhow, I'm looking to buy these instead as a stopgap and companion set of strobes. Would any of you just get z240? budget is not a huge issue just I hate being inefficient about these things.

wet lens noob here so the FITPro +5 67mm screws onto the front of normal macro port for the nauticam or any port with 67mm thread? whereas FITPro +8 is 46mm and needs a 67->46 adapter, as here: http://www.fun-in.com.tw/catalog/product_i...roducts_id=1784 couldnt find anywhere else...

Has anyone used 16-35 on DX underwater and would they recommend it? Deciding between 16-35/17-35/17-70 as a 3rd lens to take on diving trips along with the 10-17/105 combo. I do have FX as well but for above water only.

Thanks, Regarding the sync cords it doesnt sound like people miss them as much usage wise? I'll probably hold off and upgrade later if needed if thats the case. as for my existing system i'll just write off and will just switch to all new system (Nauticam hopefully to arrive in next week or so) rather than getting adapters and etc so its more about what lenses I want to add and what domes/port options/strobes etc. Absolute cost not a big deal but I'm a big sucker for being efficient, so I just want to get one more mid range lens for underwater and be done with it. Also since i'm getting a fair amount of stuff at once I rather buy all now rather than wait for upgrading. Any other thoughts on midrange lens on DX? Would anyone feel something missing, on say a shark dive, from a 10-17 + 1.4x TC (both of which I have) setup, to warrant wanting another lens on DX format? Or does that completely satisfy?

Underwater how big of an issue does this get to be? I've never used smtg with a "pro" buffer underwater so wouldn't know what to miss/want. My housing on order already but just to get an idea.

Upgrading to a D7000 rig, looking to kit (ports, gears etc) everything out in one go, so looking for some advice What I've got: 10.5vr, 10-17, 60d, 105vr, 105d, 1.4x Kenko tc, 2x z220s 1) Any suggestions for a mid range/shark lens? 10-24/12-24? 16-35/17-35? or any others? All things being equal, I'm considering the non DX lenses as I also shoot (sparingly) some full-frame topside, but if the DX lenses are clearly better underwater I will probably go with that. 2) regarding strobes, I am guessing my old z220s won't be able to do S-TTL via fiberoptic. I figure to still use manual flash settings on wideangle but would like to get S-TTL for macro. Since I already have Z220s, would a pair of S2000s complement my setup better than just upgrading to Z240? I'm also contemplating just waiting it out with my 220s - a bit concerned a new batch will come out that makes more sense for video somehow (not that I am into it yet but just in case). Any thoughts here? 3) I currently use sync cords on my old system but intend to switch to optical - is it worth bothering to get the connectors/bulkheads on my new housing if I mostly intend to use Inon (and thus optically triggerable) strobes going forward? I've had horrible experience with faulty sync cords in the past so have been looking forward to switching to optical, but wondering: will I miss having a hardwire at all?

Any other thoughts on D7000 vs waiting somewhere between 9mths to a year for a D800 or D400? Is there anything else that they can throw into the next set of pro models that, as an underwater shooter, would make me drool and regret if i get d7000 now? Figuring if D7000 has low-light performance anywhere close to D700, that has to be good enough for underwater? and then after that its just getting better video (up to 60fps instead of 24) performance and weatherproofing? I'm only an enthusiast and use only on the occasional (2-4x year) dive trip and consider my upgrade cycle should longer than pros. But its been a long time (5-6 yrs?) with the original d70 and waiting for a d400 for past 2yrs has been painful (wanting to step up to the pro bodies, so also would consider d800).

i was wondering the same on my last trip when pygmies kept (frustratingly for my photography) turning around to face the otherway from my shot my exact unscientific thought process was if....: 1) big spotlights ~20+++times my size flashed in front of me 2) about 30-50x a day, on average, repetitively, often at night 3) got no eyelids and no escape 4) will this, on avg, impact behavior (sex life, appetite, survival instincts) figure it has to have some sort of impact over the long run - whether really bad or not who knows but I think the answer to 4) is yes. digital = weaker required strobe lighting argument does not apply because it is outweighed by digital increasing the popularity of underwater photography overall. hopefully only a small % of pygmy population experiences diver/photo interaction but not sure about that.... also, i am not a scientist here but does any observation about the long term strobing of particular sample subjects have any relevance? ie, an individual sample pygmy could turn half blind from incessant strobing and not die, but still be impacted on the reproductive end or survival capability, which overall would bring down population averages. however, I figure its pretty much near impossible to determine anything probably until it is too late, and its tough to figure any way to limit photographers. But anyhow the simplified thought process above makes me personally hesitate in going all out on pygmies, perhaps this type of thinking and other conservation matters needs to be introduced to early stages of dive training to have some impact.

side question: worth buying 105 vr if you own the old 105mm, in advance of the Feb1 Nikon price increases? I used both on my last trip, borrowed VR+port from buddy. It took some getting used to but I didn't get to the point where I couldn't go back to the old one and not get the same results. I thought about getting it but I figured I'd wait until my next camera upgrade in the likely case I switch housing systems (and I can continue to "borrow" as buddy too busy to dive). but the news of price increases and the yen going nuts is making me think about bringing fwd lens investment.... I don't live in US but buy from bh/adorama once in a while and the prices there are as low as anywhere else in the world that i've seen so if it goes up there, i figure it'll be up everywhere.