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Posts posted by chphoto

  1. Thanks! I think this is pretty insane for a company that makes underwater photo equipment for living to put a flash in the middle of crystal clear box without any attempt to shield the light from the internal flash. Even with the provided deflector you can see light bouncing inside the housing.

  2. Thanks for the reply. I am trying to figure out what amount would not produce back-scatter to the level that it would affect images. For instance when I had Olympus Pen housing - I could not see internal flash. With Ikelite/RX100II housing I can clearly see flash going off when looking at the housing from the front.

  3. I understand that Ikelite is not Bentley of underwater housings, but it is the one I have at the moment for my Sony RX100II. Aside from minor usability issues - it will work fine for me.

    However one piece bothers me a lot, for perhaps irrational reason - the deflector. It is huge, leaves marks on the port every time I put it on, and tends to caught on something. So I tried to create deflector myself that is velcroed to the housing. Issue is that some light still goes over the top of it (some, but less, also visible with Ikelite own deflector).

    Questions: Is it relevant? My internal flash is not as powerful as the two strobes that I am using with the housing, and most of the light from the internal flash is deflected. Would that minor light spill be a problem?


    I will probably have time for one or two dives during the upcoming vacation and would hate to have light issues on top of me still learning the ropes underwater.



  4. Hi all,


    I was wondering if any of you could help me make a decision.


    At this point I am using Olympus EP-L1 camera with Olympus housing and Olympus strobes + 9-18mm lens. I love the way it works. Quite well for my needs.


    The only problem is that I am trying to make my travel gear as compact as possible. I also own RX100, so I was wondering if it would make sense to use that camera as my dive camera as well. I am not too concerned about the flashes - I always use them in manual mode. My main concerns are around controls and lens limitations.


    The questions that I have:

    1) Is there way to use flashes with Ikelite housing, of Nautica is the only way to go.

    2) How well do controls work on either Ikelite or Nautica

    3) 28mm of RX100 is not too wide. Are the wide angle/ fisheye adapters are good optical quality wise.


    Any other thoughts would be appreciated!

  5. Hi all,


    I am not 100% new to underwater photography, but since I do it so infrequently I may as well be considered a novice. So finally I decided to add a second strobe to my EP-L1 housing. Since up until now I had the single strobe attached to the coldshoe on the top, I thought that I would replace double clamp with triple and attach second strobe to the additional arm.


    My flashes are Olympus UFL1 and UFL2. They are not super heavy, yet I feel that clamp does not do a great job, in fact in the air it fail to support them in extended condition. Is this normal? Would it be fine underwater? Should I go with the different mount system? (keep in mind that I am going for compactness)


    Thank you very much,


  6. Hi all,

    I says in the description that Olympus UFL1 is meant for digital compacts, while UFL2 is used for both. What does that actually mean? Is it that UFL1 is unable to provide correctly functioning TTL with an Olympus DSLR? Or is it just the statement that they believe you would like a more powerful flash with a DSLR?



  7. Hi all,


    Sorry a really basic question. I have an underwater strobe that does not have spotter light built in or attached to it. I was wondering how important are those? Of course, it is better to have one with a light than without, but would you pay extra $100, $200 for having one?



  8. I got the PT-E05 housing for E520 yesterday. Of course, in terms of quality it beats using Ewa-marine or similar bags. Controls are nice and easy to use.


    But the viewfinder concerns me. When I dive I use free-diving, low volume mask. It sits close the face and gives me a good angle of view. Despite the fact that I think it is pretty good mask for underwater photography, I still had some problems using viewfinder of D2H in a bag. But it seems like it is even worse with PT-E05. People who have Olympus housing, is it a problem when you dive? Of course, Live View is too slow to focus to be useful.




  9. Are you outdoors or inside?


    An an easy fix might be to work the white balance or fabricate a red channel instead of using a filter. You shouldn't have any trouble at that depth.






    I think you are correct to some degree. White balance of course the first line of defense, but correction using white balance has its limitations - by amplifying a single channel you are increasing noise. And given my previous experience it seems like noise is excessive.

  10. Thanks for the reply Bob,


    I actually have 14-54 II. It is a great lens, but I think for underwater I will use just 14-42 for a while. It is not that bad, and I am guessing lens resolution is less of a limitation underwater.


    So this case fits as a carry-on? This is nice. I was thinking of getting a hard case for it.



  11. I will probably regret it later when the camera spends few month sitting in the closet, but for now I am very excited to get a DSLR housing. I have used P&S underwater before, and it was cool, but still was somewhat handicapped in terms of DR. Than I did an underwater model shoot using ewa-marine style bag, and it was a lot of fun:





    Except bag was very hard to use... So I was thinking of upgrading to Ewa-Marine, DSLR proper case was out of question because I though it would be at least $1500. But turns out I can get case and the port for $800. So I thought - what the heck! No lights yet...


    I wonder how many people get a case and use it only once? :) Also how much pain is it to travel with a case like that?

  12. If you are shooting video you don't need a filter.


    If it is still photography then you still don't want a filter because the water is too shallow and your pictures will look reddish-brown. For still photography you should use strobes to get good color in a pool.


    It still seems like color is pretty much gone even at such modest depth as 9 feet. Also you have to take into account the fact that I am probably another 9 feet away from the subject. So you are saying that there is no way to get a better color with just the natural light?

  13. Hello all,

    I have a very simple question: if I am shooting people in a swimming pool what filter should work the best blue water or green water? It seems like due to walls generally painted blue and super clear water that is in a pool blue water should work better. Is this correct?



  14. I am a beginner, and I have been reading a lot of good things about Magic-Filter. However, I cannot understand why exact same effect cannot be achieved with a PhotoShop filter? All it does is adds some red shift to every pixel, this must be trivial change to do in post processing. And since most people shoot RAW this and white balance will not be any more lossy than it is to do this with the filter. Am I wrong?

  15. Hi! once again, not a very sophisticated question, but I already stroke out with optical cable by Intova, so here is my question:

    I need a good optical cable to connect Sea&Sea YS25 as a slave to Canon WP-DC28 housing for G10 (basically scuba case with no special slave connection). Any suggestions? And where to get it?

  16. This is not a fair comparison. You are taking an entry level camera (Nikon D90) to compare against a serious enthusiast camera (canon 5D MkII)


    Wow... :lol: Since we are all super pro here, I think any thing short of H3 is an entry level in my books! Seriously, D90 is an enthusiast camera; D40 and D60 are entry level. :) 5DII is a professional DSLR. Most of my friends do not want to carry full body camera since they do not need the huge buffer and this is just extra weight. For my fun pictures I use my D90 much more than D700. It is smaller and lighter.

  17. Hello, I am very new to underwater photography. For my first underwater set-up I will use Fuji F100FD, which has a decent low light focusing performance. How important is it in your opinion to have a flashlight as a focus assist? I have seen people use it, but also I have seen some very serious underwater sets without one.



    2008 has been a good year; many great shots for me and lots of good memories. Lots of time spent diving with new friends I've met directly or indirectly through Wetpixel.
    Our favorite shots are not always the most technically perfect, but often those that do more on a personal emotional level. I do two very different things in my underwater photography - in a pool studio, it's all about visualization and control, in the wild it's all about trying to show something the way I saw and wondered at it.

    In my pool work I've made progress in setting up my 'studio' and I have lots of ideas for 2009 with some pool shoots already scheduled for January. Here's one that shows some control of lighting and control by my excellent model.

    Image removed at the request of the photographer

    In the wild, my favorite shot; is of the same subject as Carol's manatees. I think one of the hardest things to do underwater is to tell a story, unless it's something obvious like a dead finned shark.
    For me the composition of this image tells the story of an ever watchful mommy manatee hanging in the background as her little one curiously checks me out.
    Sun streaming through the water just the way I saw it, another difficult thing to convey underwater.
    I'm also very pleased that the image is 100% available light, and my first outing with the D700.


    Great model image!
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