Posts posted by pmooney
Hey Darren, Sorry to say I can't meet up for a beer.
How is the Aquatica mini dome working out ?
A job well done.
Really liked the lighting - what lights did you use ?
Whoah... Lots of ifs here.
Zen DP230 does not use a a modular mount. It uses a one piece mounting plate, like Nauticam.
Nauticam are offering a 9" glass dome which is exactly the same piece of glass as the Zen DP230, the only difference is which company does the finish work.
This is not true on DP230, which uses a one piece mount.
Thanks for the correction.
Looks like you had a great trip.
Glad to see the little strobes were up to the job.
My understanding is the glass on both ports is the same.
Great demonstration of the 240fps feature.
Have you got your 3D rig housed or are you just playing around topside ?
I'm (finally) looking at upgrading from my NX-100 (Nikon F100) housing to a digital housing. As my current land camera is a Canon 50D and I have an investment in Canon lenses and Sea & Sea ports, I'm looking for a used Sea & Sea or Aquatica housing for a Canon body such as the 400D, 450D, 30D, 40D, 50D.
If you have one used but in good condition please let me know!
I have a Aquatica housing for the Canon 5D ( not 5DMk11 ) that is in 9/10 condition.
This housing has been my own unit and was destined to be part of my collection of housings.
You can have it for $900 USD plus shipping.
The sad answer is YES that is a hook in the sharks mouth , unfortunately this is becoming a common sight in many shark rich locations.
For my taste I think the shot would have worked better as a vertical.
It's good to have the habit of shooting set ups like this in both formats.
This will give you a cover shot ( vertical ) and the centrespread ( horizontal )
I had the chance to take the Light and Motion Sola600 LED focusing/video light out (Light & Motion Underwater Lighting Systems - SOLA600) for dive today. I took my strobes off and just shoot video on my D90 with the Tokina 10-17mm. The Tokina 10-17mm was shot at 17mm as this was the best focal length for the spread of the Sola600's beam.
Had some rough conditions with surge and the vis had also dropped from the days before. But there was so much action in the water it comes in handy sometimes to shoot video from the Nikon D90 instead of video.
Here are some links to my first unedited video clips just to give you an idea of the setup:
DSC_0019 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
DSC_0008 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Good work, It looks like you need a second light.
It ought to with the proper adapter, I know some shop will adapt the 45 degree Inon to our Aquatica housing, so the mount should technically be the same, check with Peter Mooney, as he actually carries both brands and should know the answer.
Simple solution is to say no. Its not a modification that I am fond of.
Silly question - but have you released the latch / lock inside the extension ring ?
I was wondering because of Drew's last post in the link I quoted:
"none of the current Fathom lenses are compatible with the new crop of cameras from Canon/Sony, including the HF, XR series. Yet a few of the manufacturers using the UOM produced lenses market their lenses as compatible...."
"I think having some sort of guide on official Fathom products vs licenced manufacturers would clear up some of the confusion and also act as a guide for potential buyers."
However, that was 6 months ago and things have apparently changed...
Here is a photo that shows both the old "built under licence port" for Stingray & Bluefin up to XR520 series and the new built by Fathom Port for the XR550.
You can see clearly that they are two different ports and that the new port is marked clearly FATHOM USA and is serialised.
I hope this clears this up for you.
Glad to see you've made your way to Wetpixel.
I just spent a week at the Digital Shootout with 3 boat loads of shooters, as I was sort of one of the maintance geek in residence and saw every little problem that happened, lets put it this way, I have seen zero problem with optical connection, zero complains about frame rates versus recycling and had the week to shoot with both my own wired strobe system and with a pair of optically triggered strobes, my 2 cents, go optical, if you feel nostalgic about pinched O-ring, corroded contacts, sync cord breakdown and battery failure on the TTL circuit board, then get a second wired bulkhead installed
Whatever housing you get, get the 10-17mm Tokina and a mid size port, I found large port to be overkill with this lens and the smaller 4" port requires too much depth of field to bring them online when shooting big animal and wreck, remember that you will be shooting available light and moving subject, having to stop down to f/11 to get crisp corners will cost you too much in shutter speed. a mid size 6" dome port is way more generous and will handle easier as well.
Hey Jean ,
Good to hear that you enjoyed the time out of the office.
That's great advice on the ports - the 6" port has been a longtime favourite of mine.
Be careful to check for serious vignetting before you buy the Fathom 90. I tried one with my Panasonic TM700 and it is useless...and the Sony CX550 has a slightly wider lens.
This is going to be an issue with the new generation of camcorders which have much wider angle FOV on their zooms. Most, if not all, of the housing optics will vignette to the point of unusability.
HDVdiver - Your comment while being well intended is misinformed.
You should know that Light & Motion have had the Fathom 90 optics and port mount totally redesigned to suit the CX & XR 550 Series of Camera's.
I think all the housing manufacturers have had to deal with the challenge that the larger lenses have provided, and as usual each has done it in their own style.
How have you dealt with it with the Seadragon Lenses you manufacture & sell ?
Perhaps you may like to start a fresh thread and tell us how.
What I'm most interested in is how you tested a LMI Fathom 90 with a TM700 given that LMI have never built a housing for that brand of camera.
Contact this guy.
He just had a wake board accident and popped an eardrum which effectively makes his Aquatica 5DMk11 Package surplus.
It seems that you are missing the spring that keeps tension on the gear - this explains the lack of aperture controls.
The second issue you describe sound like the camera is not getting full seated. A possible explanation is that the lens release control has not been pulled out or is in the incorrect position.
Make sure the base plate catch is in the secured position.
I have attached a few images for your assistance.
The 40mm Extension is recommended for the 1.4 TC / 10-17 combo
I can't see any problems with taking it in the surf.
You would be best to take the 180 viewfinder off if your using it and use the smallest dome.
It's best to avoid any snags etc in case you go over the falls.
Great set of images for a first outing.
Great set of images, there is no doubt the southern dive sites are very productive when the weather gods are on your side.
Hope to see you at Byron for the Festival.
Hi everyone. Total Noob here. I just picked up a Stingray HD with an SR12. Leaving for my first offshore trip with it and I can't figure out how to get the text on the camera to display on the monitor back of the housing. The picture shows on the back, but none of the information displayed on the camera shows up on the back. For instance, I can't tell if it is recording or on standby, battery life, etc. Does anybody have any ideas?
Thanks in advance!
Display Icons on Monitor Back
In order to see the camera display information on the
monitor screen, you will need to set the camera to V-OUT/PANEL on the
Go to the menu, select DISPLAY and set to V-OUT/PANEL
(see Fig. 10 and 11.
Refer to your Sony camcorder instruction manual). If done
correctly, the external monitor back will now display all of the camcorder’s
If the picture on the Stingray HD monitor appears “squished”, then a setting
needs to be changed on the camcorder to display the video correctly.
Enter the camcorder’s menu; enter the STANDARD SET submenu then scroll
down and select TV TYPE. Change the TV TYPE setting to 4:3. Exact steps
may vary depending on your camcorder model (Refer Fig. 12).
If you get really stuck you can get the manual here
That spec Macbook you ordered is plenty.
Seeing as your editing HDV footage from a HC9 you could get by with I-Movie HD ( also known as I-Movie 6 ) as an editing program.
It is lot more traditional in layout and feature rich by comparison to the dumbed down versions of I-Movie that ship with current machines.
It will meet every nearly every need you have for home movies and distribution.
Yep, we can do the conversion for you. PM me for details.
YS-90 DX and G11
in Lights, Strobes, and Lighting Technique
Yes - you could use this with the G11. The strobe just needs to be switched to SLAVE ON.
No - you wont get TTL with this combo.